iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group

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pufZeppelin

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Hi again, I've got a smok Tech Pyrex Aro tank on my MVP, and it's starting to draw hard.

I emptied it, washed it with water, let it dry overnight, and replaced the wick to no avail. Is there something else I can do? I'm vaping caramel in it. Thanks.

I also forgot to say I've got a 510 to ego adapter on it with the beauty ring. I haven't had an issue previously.

so it worked before
(air passage not blocked by MVP threads)

now it won't 'draw' well

well if you don't have your (3) holes plugged in the base
and towel, cotton etc stuck down in the mouthpiece air way

all that is left is the coil

you washed it, dried it, then replaced it ?

try a new coil, that will tell ya where your problem is...

(caramel one of the worst for sticking to coil wire and residue build up)

:)
 

pufZeppelin

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Not Innokin...but how about 2000 mAh?

ARO VV/VW 2000mAh Winder Batteries

Saw a "Clearomizer Tree" once (to have multiple clearomizers handy)...but still looking for a "Drip Tip Tree" (say with 10-30 "branches").

-------------------------------


Interesting...
VV V3: $25.99, 800mAh, USB Charge, Passthrough, VV, VW, Ohms Meter, Remaining Battery V's Reading, square
CLK: $49.99, 800mAh, USB Charge, Passthrough, VV, NO VW, NO Ohms Meter, NO Remaining Battery V's Reading, round
So...basically...if I'm willing to give up VW, an Ohms Reader and Remaining Battery V's Reading...and pay an extra $24...I'll be able to get a VV V3 that will roll off my desk!!! :shock:


- Acrylic Displays - E-Cig Parts

- - -

yepper, that CLK! is just an eGo 800 VV, but with USB on side and can work as passthrough
not really sure why or where it would fit
I see/want a Spinner II ($19) or one of those up there ↑ (my Spinner I's are tuff-like-nails)

- New Vision Spinner II Style 1600mAh Variable Voltage Battery US Seller in Stock | eBay

:)
 

pufZeppelin

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I have been doing tons of research on how different diameters for wrapping coils perform and what the differences are , unfortunately despite what some people experience i have been unable to notice much if any differences at all, from say wrapping around a 1/16th drill bit or a 5/64, 3/32 or even a 7/64 .

Actually, it seems a tightly wrapped coil around a 1/16 or even smaller produces just as well as the larger diameters despite being able to use more wick on the larger ones.

I also have a hard time telling whether a tightly packed coil performs better than one which has more spacing ( like most factory heads come with) i guess you can say i wouldn't be a good evaluator for a Company looking for feedback lol.

I think i will stick with the micro coils until i can prove larger is better .





I don't think there's any question as to whether Innokin and other big time manufacturers monitor these sites , of course they do but getting them to admit it is another matter.

Most large successful Companies do not comment and will not reveal they are following forums but they definitely do .

Can't wait to see what they come out with , they sound very confident for sure and with the runaway success and dominance the MVP product has provided them why not.


I tell ya, I’m happiest wrapping my coils similar to what factory does
5/64”, close but not touching, keep legs short as possible…
all the others , meh (factory has more R&D than me, efficiency)
the others seem a bit tuffer to do (a little) but made all kinds of test run coils
and I seem to come back to close to stock style and it's working for me...

:ohmy:
 

pufZeppelin

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I've been doing 1.2ohm no problems..

great ! ;)

but since I DONT KNOW :blush:
it seems like anything, if you run it balls to the wall it just wears out faster

they say don't do it, even tho little box hangs in there, whats going gonna give ?

is there danger involved, longevity, I just can't say so I don't do it

hope it works out for you and others running below Manufacturers Suggested Ratings

:)

don't you think if you could get away with that, Innokin would use it as a Selling Point (a Highlight) JMO
 
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Midniteoyl

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great ! ;)

but since I DONT KNOW :blush:
it seems like anything, if you run it balls to the wall it just wears out faster

they say don't do it, even tho little box hangs in there, whats going gonna give ?

is there danger involved, longevity, I just can't say so I don't do it

hope it works out for you and others running below Manufacturers Suggested Ratings

:)

don't you think if you could get away with that, Innokin would use it as a Selling Point (a Highlight) JMO

*shrugs* Where I vape at isn't at its amp limit, so....
 

gandymarsh

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Yup I believe the one I went to is called "The Dollar Tree" as well, but I can't remember for sure. I do know that the holster I got has a magnetic closure, even though in the pics I posted it looks like it snaps closed. I finally got to try it out while I was gone today, and it's definitely nicer to be able to carry it in the holster, rather than in my hand (or leaving it in the car). I'd also like to figure out some way to cover the tank, like herb mentioned, because then I wouldn't feel like people are staring at it trying to figure out what it is :lol:

Oh and thanks for mentioning about the Mini PT3 fitting on the side, as I didn't even consider that :thumb: Now I can have a Mini PT2 on the device, and then an extra one in there next to it, as it fits perfectly :D
You are absolutely correct! It looks like a snap but it is actually a magnet with a hole for the nub to fit into.
 

DEAc23

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You are absolutely correct! It looks like a snap but it is actually a magnet with a hole for the nub to fit into.

I definitely like that it's got that, as it makes it a lot easier to open/close, but it's also snug enough that it doesn't come open too easily.


Oh and I had a couple questions about charging the MVP. First off I've been charging my MVP for the last hour or so, and I'm just curious what happens when it is fully charged? Does the green light turn off? Also, what does everybody use to charge their MVP's? By that I mean do you just plug it into a USB port (I'm currently using one of my laptop's USB ports), or do you have a wall adapter? For those who have the wall adapter, where can I get one that would work (and be safe) with the MVP?
 

gandymarsh

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Yes, the green light will go off when fully charged.

I didn't get a wall adapter with my MVP but I did with my Ego kit so I use it or my computer. It should make no difference either way since the charging circuitry is in the one that came with the MVP.

Any wall adapter with a USB port should be OK to plug your MVP into as long as it outputs at least 420ma. They can be found all over the web like this Amazon.com : Ego Wall Charger Adapter : Everything Else
 

DEAc23

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I've got a few wall adapters with USB ports, but they are all for Android devices, just wasn't sure if it was safe to use those with the MVP. I also have a wall adapter for an eGo as well, I didn't even think of that, now I just gotta find it :lol:

EDIT - Oh and I just found out first hand that the light turns off when it's fully charged :D
 

stylemaster2001

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Hey all, as a follow-up to my problems posted 2 pages back, I replaced the head on my Nautilus with a brand new one, (not a rebuild) and cleaned the interior "well" of it...it was slightly damp, put it back together and attempted to screw it on my MVP. Ohms read 0.0 when fully tightened, but when unscrewed slightly, went to 1.6. So, apparently this is a nautilus problem, not an mvp problem. I then loaded the naut. on my ego spinner, screwed it on tight and....same thing, flashing light on the ego, no fire. Unscrewed it slightly and it IS firing, so apparently I have jacked the nautilus head somehow. Now I have to go research that!!!! Thanks for all your help guys/girls.
 

herb

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Hey all, as a follow-up to my problems posted 2 pages back, I replaced the head on my Nautilus with a brand new one, (not a rebuild) and cleaned the interior "well" of it...it was slightly damp, put it back together and attempted to screw it on my MVP. Ohms read 0.0 when fully tightened, but when unscrewed slightly, went to 1.6. So, apparently this is a nautilus problem, not an mvp problem. I then loaded the naut. on my ego spinner, screwed it on tight and....same thing, flashing light on the ego, no fire. Unscrewed it slightly and it IS firing, so apparently I have jacked the nautilus head somehow. Now I have to go research that!!!! Thanks for all your help guys/girls.


I get that from time to time with rebuilt head's , rare on factory head's though. I have found it's best not to screw down overly tight so if it works when a bit loose without leaking vape away.
 

Buggainok

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Hey all, as a follow-up to my problems posted 2 pages back, I replaced the head on my Nautilus with a brand new one, (not a rebuild) and cleaned the interior "well" of it...it was slightly damp, put it back together and attempted to screw it on my MVP. Ohms read 0.0 when fully tightened, but when unscrewed slightly, went to 1.6. So, apparently this is a nautilus problem, not an mvp problem. I then loaded the naut. on my ego spinner, screwed it on tight and....same thing, flashing light on the ego, no fire. Unscrewed it slightly and it IS firing, so apparently I have jacked the nautilus head somehow. Now I have to go research that!!!! Thanks for all your help guys/girls.

Sorry for your troubles, but glad "our" beloved MVP was not malfunctioning.:)
 

Midniteoyl

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Hey all, as a follow-up to my problems posted 2 pages back, I replaced the head on my Nautilus with a brand new one, (not a rebuild) and cleaned the interior "well" of it...it was slightly damp, put it back together and attempted to screw it on my MVP. Ohms read 0.0 when fully tightened, but when unscrewed slightly, went to 1.6. So, apparently this is a nautilus problem, not an mvp problem. I then loaded the naut. on my ego spinner, screwed it on tight and....same thing, flashing light on the ego, no fire. Unscrewed it slightly and it IS firing, so apparently I have jacked the nautilus head somehow. Now I have to go research that!!!! Thanks for all your help guys/girls.

Sounds to me like you are squishing the center pin in the Nautilus heads, collapsing the bottom insulator making it touch the coil wires. Or, there is a coil wire cut a little to long and basically doing the same thing.

Not Aspire heads, but arrows point to where I mean:


DAsuwVu.png
 

brokensoldier

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May 9, 2011
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How did you trim this? I can't do small/fiddly stuff myself any more, but my daughter will be up next week, so I'm seriously considering trying this. The foam padding on the button is helping, but I still can't use my MVPs more than a couple of hours a day, and the VV v3s have to be charged twice a day or run on pass through.

Well when you take it apart you will see that the silver button that you press rests inside the clearish/white grommet. The silver button rests on the top opening of the grommet like a lid from a blender. That grommet has a square notch that fits around the actual button on the circuit board.

The part of the grommet with the square notch that rests on the board plus ~3-4mm of wall is all that is needed. DO NOT REMOVE THE ENTIRE WALL OF THE GROMMET.

So what I did is got a pair of scissors and slowly and carefully started trimming the grommet until all that was left of the walls was the thickness of one of the scissor blades, plus a little bit. I held the grommet in my left hand and cut with scissors in my right hand, making 3-4 passes around the entire circumference of the grommet. You will need sharp scissors, and you need to cut slowly and deliberately.

I left about 3-4mm of the wall. Then I put the grommet back around the button on the circuit board, put the silver button back on the grommet, and pressed the button to see how far down it went, to make sure the lip of the button no longer made contact with the grommet wall.

This adjustment will not make the perfect button click - there is still a lot of resistance, but it's down about 40% of what it was.

The hardest part of this process was taking apart the MVP. You need a #7 torq screwdriver, maybe a #6. Take your device to the hardware store and try them out before you buy one.

Turn off the device.

Once you have the four screws off, the top section does not simply pop off. You have to pull it out as far as it will go, about 5-10 millimeters, then push the top piece away from the button side of the device. Then push in the silver button AND black plastic button shroud, at the same time pulling the top piece. It's hard to get off, and hard to get back on again. It requires force, but not too much because once it gets free all the wires become the point of resistance and you cannot damage the welds.

Getting the top part back on is equally challenging. You have to do it in reverse order. Assemble the button pieces together, including the black plastic shroud, put the top part in at an angle then shoe-horn the top into place. Once I saw the button assembly was partially in the device I used the torq screwdriver to push in the black plastic shroud while at the same time I pushed in the top piece of the device. Don't use a lot of force, but you have to do it like you mean it.

If someone can make a video of this you would be a hero to many people.
 
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herb

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If people really have an issue with the button i suppose it's worth doing but in all the endless posts i have read about the MVP it doesn't appear to be a problem at all , i think it's ideal the way it is personally and would not mess with it unless i had no choice.

Glad yours survived the operation, would of been a real bummer if it suddenly succumbed to it's injuries , the MVP, and you can include us humans in this can expire at any time for no apparent reason (especially when we get tinkered with)
 
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