MTL Tank suggestions ???
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No, @JCinFLA, I am not set on subohm at all.@IDJoel - Are you set on vaping subohm, or have you tried your Berserker with maybe a 1.2-1.3ohm SS coil at 7-8 watts or even somewhat higher? It's definitely Tootle Puffer vaping, but it's where I've found that I get consistently great flavor with the 24mm. I know that everyone's palate is different though.
I have run a couple of kanthol builds through the Berserker (24mm), from 1.2-1.6 ohm resistance. I do tend to prefer SS builds, because I like temp control, and it doesn't have that "kanthol taste."Using SS (only 28ga. so far), it has been difficult achieving a +1ohm build. I get enough wraps, and then it doesn't readily fit the posts. Or, upon tightening the terminals, I distort the coil. I did pick up some 30ga. SS, but have yet to try it. It is so fine; it has been intimidating me.
To be fully transparent; I build my own coils, because I am a cheap curmudgeon, not because I enjoy it. I don't build any more often than absolutely necessary. So, I know, I have not put in the time, or the experimentation, to find the ideal build for me and the device.
What diameter of coil are you using, JC? And, what gauge of SS are you using to achieve a 1.2-1.3ohm build?
And, to everyone who has taken the time to read and reply, again I say thank you! I appreciate everyone's thoughts.
I do have to say the 2019 Kayfun is a sexy little tank. The price-tag is a bit steep for my budget. But, It does look simple enough, that even I can manage it.
I am looking at all suggestions, and will be doing my research, to see which ones might be a good match for me.
No, @JCinFLA, I am not set on subohm at all.
Using SS (only 28ga. so far), it has been difficult achieving a +1ohm build. I get enough wraps, and then it doesn't readily fit the posts. Or, upon tightening the terminals, I distort the coil. I did pick up some 30ga. SS, but have yet to try it. It is so fine; it has been intimidating me.
To be fully transparent; I build my own coils, because I am a cheap curmudgeon, not because I enjoy it. I don't build any more often than absolutely necessary. So, I know, I have not put in the time, or the experimentation, to find the ideal build for me and the device.
What diameter of coil are you using, JC? And, what gauge of SS are you using to achieve a 1.2-1.3ohm build?
And, to everyone who has taken the time to read and reply, again I say thank you! I appreciate everyone's thoughts.
I do have to say the 2019 Kayfun is a sexy little tank. The price-tag is a bit steep for my budget. But, It does look simple enough, that even I can manage it.
I am looking at all suggestions, and will be doing my research, to see which ones might be a good match for me.
The only issue I see with it as it uses what appears to be some form of ultem / pmma tank section. Give it a few weeks though and I'm almost certain SM will come out with a steel or glass section shortly after. Either that or (as happened in the past) the 3rd party people will flood the market with some sweet parts for it like they did the original KFL / KFL+. To top it off, price, for what you get is undeniable. I have some of the originals laying in my TooT Box. Also have the KF5 and the KF Prime. Neither have given me issues at all when building on them. Hell, even the original KFL+ didn't give me any issues. To make things better, Kayfuns seem to be pretty forgiving when it comes to certain things (ie wicking, juice / mixes, etc.) which adds to it's pros. I have - yet to this day - found someone that rebuilds that says "Building on a Kayfun is impossible and everything I do gives me problems." Ever. My thing is, if you can build on a Kayfun, you can build on anything. The ONLY downsize I see to ANY Kayfun is it's small build deck.
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Correction it's a PEI tank section. PEI (Polyethermide) is a high heat resistant, chemical resistant plastic.
Well, I've actually been "cheating" and buying/using these pre-wound ones from FT. They're dirt cheap @ 3.5 cents each, hold up very well, and are very easy to install once I make 1 of the legs go the opposite direction.
$3.49 E-XY 316L Stainless Steel Pre-coiled Coil (100-Pack) - 28 AWG / 0.32mm dia. / 1.3ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Their info. says their depth (ID) is 3.2mm, but no way. When I measure them with my brass calliper gauge, they're 2.6-2.7mm. To me, they're an ideal fit on the Berserker deck.
Since I have just a few boxes of them
...I'd be happy to send you some for free, to "play with" and see how they do for you. Just let me know. 
Using SS (only 28ga. so far), it has been difficult achieving a +1ohm build. I get enough wraps, and then it doesn't readily fit the posts. Or, upon tightening the terminals, I distort the coil. I did pick up some 30ga. SS, but have yet to try it. It is so fine; it has been intimidating me.
I use a 2.5mm id 6 wrap SS316l 28 gauge coil in all my RTAs (mainly the doggy) which comes out around 0.55ohms. I get the same problem as you with more wraps - plus I got lazy and 7 became 6
28 gauge is enough of a pita to wrap and use - 30 gauge scares the bejeezus outta me
Thank you, JC! You are ever so generous.Well, I've actually been "cheating" and buying/using these pre-wound ones from FT. They're dirt cheap @ 3.5 cents each, hold up very well, and are very easy to install once I make 1 of the legs go the opposite direction.
$3.49 E-XY 316L Stainless Steel Pre-coiled Coil (100-Pack) - 28 AWG / 0.32mm dia. / 1.3ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Their info. says their depth (ID) is 3.2mm, but no way. When I measure them with my brass calliper gauge, they're 2.6-2.7mm. To me, they're an ideal fit on the Berserker deck.
Since I have just a few boxes of them
I have plenty of 28ga SS (316L), and with your measurements, I think I should be able to replicate the FT coils well enough. I can make a simple coil without shaming myself too badly. If I run into snags; I won't hesitate to take you up on your offer.
I have been making spaced coils lately (vs. contact coils). The picture in the FT link looks like those are contact wrapped. Maybe that has been part of my issue. I will try it both ways... though I am not even sure I can get a 12 wrap spaced to fit.
This will be my project of the next couple of days. I think my flavor tank is due for a rebuild. 
Cross-post (min)? Explain please.If I'm gonna be droppin' 100 large on a tank, I sure would love to see the cross-post (min) and over-the-a/f dim's of the deck. I guess I could assume something's gonna fit, but what? It's probably the most critical spec and one I've rarely seen mentioned by makers or vapers. No make'a no sense.
Guess producers and resellers feel better served by the pervasive illusion that anything works. Those who make quality gear are not.
Good luck.
Wouldn't it be great if the manufacturer provided all the critical specs we end up measuring for ourselves? Thank gawd for digital calipers. That's all I've got to say.
You must space your wraps for TC. Always fit the length of your coil in correct dimension to your posts. If not, your coil will warp when you start tightening down your screws.Thank you, JC! You are ever so generous.
I have plenty of 28ga SS (316L), and with your measurements, I think I should be able to replicate the FT coils well enough. I can make a simple coil without shaming myself too badly. If I run into snags; I won't hesitate to take you up on your offer.
I have been making spaced coils lately (vs. contact coils). The picture in the FT link looks like those are contact wrapped. Maybe that has been part of my issue. I will try it both ways... though I am not even sure I can get a 12 wrap spaced to fit.
They are contact coils when I get them, but once I install 1...I make it very slightly spaced. By the way, they have 9 whole wraps with a partial wrap on each end. That changes though as 1 leg is made to point the opposite direction, in order to install it.
Agreed. If you skew the geometry installing the perfect wind you never see what it's capable of. Knowing what the device calls for dimensionally puts you in the ball park. Pretty is good but pretty good's not good enough.
Min internal distance of the post hole or block, pos or neg. The max or spread, i.e. the Ø of the hole, would be useful too as then you'd know how much wire you can fit. But the min will tell you how long the coil might need to be to avoid splaying of the leads (outward). This is one of the most common causes of shape distortion of the element. Also potentially a source of strain variation which could affect thermal output or balanced output of the element or pairs, as you well point out.
As well the pos-to-neg across the air hole, assuming a bottom fed air supply, is useful to know to properly calc lead length and get a reasonable est. for resistance.
Good luck.
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I have been making spaced coils lately (vs. contact coils). The picture in the FT link looks like those are contact wrapped. Maybe that has been part of my issue. I will try it both ways... though I am not even sure I can get a 12 wrap spaced to fit.
I use a simple hand mandrel to wind coils. It's quick and easy and produces perfectly shaped coils. For spaced coils, just wind it tight and touching, then pull the ends to stretch (while it's on the mandrel) and then push the coil back to touching. When it relaxes it's spaced perfectly. $4.89 at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Re...1551103195&sr=8-14&keywords=coil+winding+tool
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Now if we're talking about coils and wire diameter... let me tell you *sips mug of coffee* back in my day, we only had Ti-01...
Kidding - jeez don't kill me. But seriously - thinner wire may or may not be springier. IMO - thinner is also easier to snap. I doubt it's as easy to snap as Ti-01 and I doubt its nearly as springy. I remember back when I started dabbling about with 30 and 32 gauge KA-1 we used to torch those to "reduce springiness". Maybe try heating your stainless a bit to see if that helps? As for the twisted lead parallel coil - I like it, it's pretty.
When I say heat your stainless, I mean, heat it before you wrap the coil with it.
Kidding - jeez don't kill me. But seriously - thinner wire may or may not be springier. IMO - thinner is also easier to snap. I doubt it's as easy to snap as Ti-01 and I doubt its nearly as springy. I remember back when I started dabbling about with 30 and 32 gauge KA-1 we used to torch those to "reduce springiness". Maybe try heating your stainless a bit to see if that helps? As for the twisted lead parallel coil - I like it, it's pretty.
When I say heat your stainless, I mean, heat it before you wrap the coil with it.
I will say - You know you're an old vaping soul when you have silica wicks with coils you wrapped and / or a case of DeWalt drill bits and a chef's torch (with 300 cans of triple distilled butane) laying around.
Ekowool (silica) is still around and available, getting round to using that soon. Wish me luck, I'll need it.
And keeping things on thread, Ulton KF Lite has been released recently. And I keep on hearing that Ulton do some good quality tanks at reasonable price points, so may be interesting.
And keeping things on thread, Ulton KF Lite has been released recently. And I keep on hearing that Ulton do some good quality tanks at reasonable price points, so may be interesting.
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