Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 5
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I had to look it up 
Seems pretty versatile in the different brand heads it can take, I suspect there are some made for TC, although the kits I saw came with 2 different value Kanthal heads.
Seems pretty versatile in the different brand heads it can take, I suspect there are some made for TC, although the kits I saw came with 2 different value Kanthal heads.
I tried it on mine. It worked OK with the Pico I was running it on. I'm not that big into TC, so I went back to setting watts.
I had mine set for SS. I remember getting the long delay in TC mode, think that was why I changed. The glass broke on the Melo, I switched it out to a YFTK Kayfun Prime and haven't looked back. The Melo parts are in a bag somewhere...
Well, I'm gettin' da delay on wattage. Haven't ventured into da TC options, yet. Didn't know which of da three TC modes would be 'compatible' wid da stock Melo III head (Kanthal, I presume).
Hey I don't know how many use YiHi mods but I've been having some weird things go on on mine. First it was on an SXmini Mclass. When I change batteries it reset the whole mod back to stock, the sensor turns itself back on and if you aren't watching it it changes the power on you. Had that happen on a Kabuki I was running it at 8w had to change the battery and it put me with sensor on and resetting the power. Before I notice it it had turned itself up to 40w. When I took a hit, well you know the rest, a nautilus head is not made for 40w burned it up and almost my lungs. Just wonder if its my batteries or what. Now its doing it on an MLclass.
No, no, no ... Kanthal is not compatible at all for TC mode on any TC capable mod. I looked at the eleaf site and the stock TC coils for the Melo III look to come in 2 versions ... one is Nickel (TC-NI), the other Titanium (TC-TI).
Gripes ... none of that sounds good. Don't have any YiHi mods to comment on this issue.
As Mike said, NO TC with Kanthal on that mod. Only power mode.
Planned obsolesence? NK hacking your mod? Have you tried reloading your "custom" setups and seeing if they then behave normally? (And, if they do, do they again reset when changing batteries?)
Okay, I am sorry if this is a bad question, but...
Why does the type of metal make a difference with the type of heat being applied? If you apply 400degrees - it is 400 degrees isn't it?
Why does the type of metal make a difference with the type of heat being applied? If you apply 400degrees - it is 400 degrees isn't it?
On many TC mods you can set the wattage of the pre-heat separately. I suspect yours is too low. I have one of mine set about right and another set too high (it overshoots and sends too much vapor before it levels off at the desired level.)
It's the 'resistance curve' or whatever they actually call it. TC mods rely on a known change in resistance as the wire temp changes that's how the TC chip/board estimates the temperature.
And Kanthal basically doesn't change resistance as it heats up. (Yes, it does, but so little it's not easily measurable.)
You're NOT applying heat, you're applying voltage. The amount of voltage across/through the coil and the resistance of the coil determines the amount of power (watts) being consumed. The higher the power the higher the watts. And just like a small electric space heater, the higher the watts the higher the temp. (Of course, the heater kicks in more coils, it doesn't change the voltage, but the resistance
)With TC, you decide what final temp you want for your vape. The electronics use that input to determine, based on the coil resistance, what voltage to deliver. Coil metals other than kanthal do change resistance significantly when heated, so the mod will use the TCR curve (Temperature Coefficent of Resistance, i.e. how the resistance changes in relation to temperature) to continuously change the voltage to stabilize the power for the temperature you picked.
Thanks... That explains why they need advanced software. But it seems the software would need to know the gauge, type, etc to be accurate...
It's a good question. Yes, 400˚ is 400˚, but how is the mod expected to know what temperature the coil is and adjust the current to keep it at the desired temperature?
TC mods don't actually measure temperature; they measure resistance. Most metals change their resistance as their temperatures change. Some metals more than others, and all to a different extent. For various reasons, nickel, titanium, and the alloy Stainless Steel 316L are the ones commonly used for vaping coils. Their temperature/resistance data are well known, and this data is built in to various TC mods.
What the mods can't tell is exactly what metal the coil is made of. The mod can easily measure the resistance of the coil which is attached, and measure the change as the coil heats up, but the mod can't determine what these measurements mean unless it is "told" (by what metal the mod is set for) which data to use to convert the resistance changes into actual temperatures.
Nope; just the kind of metal. Everything else can be calculated from the internal electronics of the mod.
EDIT: Everything else important. The gauge, and length of the wire is irrelevant.
Makes sense - thanks for all of the replies. I am toying with the idea of trying one. I am very well set with what I have, but TC interests me - at least a little...
The best thing about TC (for me) is that you never get a nasty-tasting dry hit, and you never instantly ruin coils by cooking the juice in the wick (making it instantly non-wicking). When the juice runs out you just get - - - nothing. No vapor, no taste, no nicotine; just a bit of warm air. Then you know it's time to refill the tank. (And wait for the juice to rewet the wick.)
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