Stop the presses, new lavatube 3.0 is about to hit with a 4 amp limit!

[orachel]

I am also confused! Are the retailers specs wrong?

Yes, and this is not the first time that has happened, unfortunately. Vision tox, manufactured by GreenSound springs to mind. But the vendors aren't setting out to deceive, I don't think. Though I find it hard to believe they don't have a dang meter to check one of the oh, say 100 or so units they get in stock. Now THAT is irksome. But unfortunately, vendors buy their devices based on advertised specs by the manufacturers exactly like we do the specs on vendors sites. You might wanna peek around alibaba.. pretty cool way to get a peek into the wholesale side of pvs. I do believe its likely that huge manufacturers, like Lrider for instance, probably have reps who deal directly with the vendors. At least that's what I've been told. So they're not JUST going off stated specs on a tech spec sheet at alibaba, with the big guys. But all they know is what they're told, and when pvs start selling, and then multiple develop the same issue (ie with the v1 vision tox heads being flat out unable to hold voltage under load after about 4v)... I think the vendors are as surprised as we are, in most cases.

 

[txtumbleweed]

Forgive my ignorance, im a newbje who will be getting my first variable voltage device and all I want is an APV that will hold the voltage I set it to under load!! I have heard the Lavatube v1s dont do well in that aspect, correct??

They hold the voltage very well for me at the voltages I vape at and that is between 3.3 and 4.5. It is just the higher voltages that were having noticeable differences.

 

[Shekinahsgroom]

I do believe its likely that huge manufacturers, like Lrider for instance, probably have reps who deal directly with the vendors. At least that's what I've been told.

This is where the lies 'usually' originate...at the point of sale through unreliable agents.

But sometimes they're just outright fabrications with absolutely NO real data or proof for that matter.

But what really irks me is that retailers, even KNOWING the truth, will lie to you anyways to avoid taking substantial losses.....

And I'm not gonna even go into the Apollo fiasco, cuz they were claiming at one time to be manufacturing the SS Tubes themselves....when I know for a FACT they're being purchased from L-Rider!

But that's a whole 'other' story right there....which nobody wanted to believe when I disclosed it 2 months ago!

"What do you mean they're NOT stainless steel?"

Reminiscent of....

"What do you mean they're NOT authentic AW IMR's?"

Remember that one?

 

[txtumbleweed]

I don't think its a matter of something I will never use, but having the option of running dual coils, checking voltages and omhs is something that appeals to me. I am trying my hardest not to buy a provari. I work on a Naval ship, I really don't want to buy something that expensive on my limited budget and have it stolen or fall into the pacific ocean. It has happened before with an ego. Thank god for DFWVAPOR.

You can run DC or 1.5 LR cartos on the 1.5 version and they also read resistance. You might not get quite 6 volts but not very many people vape LR at 6 volts.

 

[Shekinahsgroom]

You can run DC or 1.5 LR cartos on the 1.5 version and they also read resistance. You might not get quite 6 volts but not very many people vape LR at 6 volts.

You can run dual coils on the V1.0 version too.

It's the very low resistance cartos that won't function very well because LR's were designed to be used with 3.7V devises.

I've got a 2.5 ohm dual coil on my L-Rider LT V1.0 with a CGR18650CH in it and it vapes CLOOOUDS and has really excellent flavor!!

 

[Photoplay]

I was planning on buying my very first APV next week and had decided on a Lavatube kit but not so sure anymore which way to turn. No to LT-1, yes to LT 1.5, 2 or 3 provided I understand that it's not a 4 amp limit but closer to 3 amps and does provide new features such as reading ohms and new endcaps etc. What's the consensus? confused.

 

[txtumbleweed]

The truth is I think they all work good and any of the three will work great for 90% of vapers. I have the Version 1 and version 1.5. They both work very good the only difference is you can read the resistance of the carto with 1.5 which I like but I use the Version 1 the most because it is the mini and I have it on a lanyard so I take it with me everywhere and use my 18650 when I'm home.
You can get some real good buys on them right now.

 

[KalebK]

I was planning on buying my very first APV next week and had decided on a Lavatube kit but not so sure anymore which way to turn. No to LT-1, yes to LT 1.5, 2 or 3 provided I understand that it's not a 4 amp limit but closer to 3 amps and does provide new features such as reading ohms and new endcaps etc. What's the consensus? confused.

You are exactly where I am at, my friend!!!

 

[hmlessalky]

The first VV I bought was a SSLT. The first one I actually got to use was a 'LT'1.5. Before that I built 5v boxes for more power, and often I found it to be a bit much for lower resistances. If you are fairly new to the electronic nicotine delivery world I would say buy either. You are going to be amazed at the possibilities that open up with your new-found control. I actually bought a bunch of SR and higher gear to use in anticipation of my VV's showing up. Haven't even opened them up yet. For me, 2ohms at around 4.2v has been working great for most juices I own. I'm sure my voltages will rise when I use other cartos and such, but I am happy right now. When you look at the low price you can get a LT for, it would be silly, in my opinion, not to do it no matter what version. Like some previous posters stated, it should satisfy a large majority of people. I'm betting that it would satisfy 99% of people looking to buy one as their first VV device. If it lasts 6 months and dies, one of two things will happen. You will either buy another one since they are inexpensive, or you will be ready to buy something much more expensive. I'm thinking that unless I find a good deal on a Provari, I will probably not buy one til my 1.5 dies.

Just my input. Hope everyone has a good weekend!

Salky

 

[Photoplay]

You are exactly where I am at, my friend!!!

Nice to know I'm not alone Hopefully I can get enough clarity to make a decision.

 

[KalebK]

Like I said, all I want is a device that will hold its voltage under load, if the specs say 3 to 6 volts, I want it to actually be able to go to 6 volts, with the proper gear attached to it!I

 

[Photoplay]

The first VV I bought was a SSLT. The first one I actually got to use was a 'LT'1.5. Before that I built 5v boxes for more power, and often I found it to be a bit much for lower resistances. If you are fairly new to the electronic nicotine delivery world I would say buy either. You are going to be amazed at the possibilities that open up with your new-found control. I actually bought a bunch of SR and higher gear to use in anticipation of my VV's showing up. Haven't even opened them up yet. For me, 2ohms at around 4.2v has been working great for most juices I own. I'm sure my voltages will rise when I use other cartos and such, but I am happy right now. When you look at the low price you can get a LT for, it would be silly, in my opinion, not to do it no matter what version. Like some previous posters stated, it should satisfy a large majority of people. I'm betting that it would satisfy 99% of people looking to buy one as their first VV device. If it lasts 6 months and dies, one of two things will happen. You will either buy another one since they are inexpensive, or you will be ready to buy something much more expensive. I'm thinking that unless I find a good deal on a Provari, I will probably not buy one til my 1.5 dies.

Just my input. Hope everyone has a good weekend!

Salky

Thanks for your input. I was kind of leaning towards buying the so called version 3 from Vapor Beast. After reading this thread I was more with concerned with mechanical failure more so then the device delivering the advertised 4 amps. I guess I'm looking for a reliable LT and wondering if this new crop would be just as reliable as it's predecessors or if it's too soon to tell? Am I taking a big risk buying these new Verisions/knockoffs and not waiting for an L Rider model a few months down the line? This being my first APV purchase would there be a huge difference between 2.8/3.0 amps and a true 4 amp unit?

Anyone's thought on this are appreciated.

 

[Photoplay]

Like I said, all I want is a device that will hold its voltage under load, if the specs say 3 to 6 volts, I want it to actually be able to go to 6 volts, with the proper gear attached to it!I

That would be great too.

 

[hmlessalky]

And either device will (within reason - there will be some voltage drop under load in almost all devices), as long as you take into account what proper gear is. As stated before, lower resistance pieces were originally designed to be used with lower voltage batteries to simulate a higher voltage experience. Just because some folks on this forum tell you they love running a 1/2ohm quadruple coil carto at 12v doesn't mean you or most people would. Just remember that no matter what you are dealing with in life, there will always be people who take it to extremes.

Also, you have to take into account the price point. You can't expect a $45 dollar device to perform as good as a $200 dollar device. This is what it all breaks down to. Haven't used a Provari or a Darwin yet. But I am guessing that the price is justified in ways other than just the quality of build.

Salky

 

[hmlessalky]

Photoplay, it is too early to tell. Look at the automotive world. A company puts out a new model of car. No matter how much R&D they put into this car, there will always be problems that pop up in the first year. They work them out over time til the car is as flawless as they can be. So buying a new model will always be risky. I bought the 1.5 due to the fact it was priced right, had a handful of people who had tried it without any problems, and it seemed to be something that would work for me. I have had no issues with it in the few weeks I have been using it, and have hardly used the SSLT since I really like the resistance reading and the battery meter.

As it would be your first VV unit, I would say you can't go wrong, unless you would get a bad unit. Even then, I would think that if the unit is actually bad, you would have problems with it long before the warranty would be up.

Hope I have helped at least a little bit. Good luck on your decision.

Oh, and as stated before, a VV box mod can be had for a bit less than a LT and they are quite nice. Battery capacity is usually less and they don't look/feel as cool, but they are another option as well.

Salky

 

[Photoplay]

Thanks again Salky

 

[billherbst]

Where did you buy a V3 LavaTube. I didn't know there were any on the market yet.

Errol,

I bought a "Vector Variable Volt" from VaporBeast. I had concluded that it was a V3 LT because of the claimed specs and many posts from a couple different threads, but maybe it's not. The email exchange post from the J-Lin rep earlier in this thread and Shek's recent claims have challenged that presumption sufficiently that I won't call the Vector Variable Volt an LT 3.0 anymore.

Look, I'm just another end-of-the-line consumer with no privileged or insider info. I try as best I can to filter out dubious info from posts in these threads that are actually speculation masquerading as fact or mere repetition of second- and third-hand claims, but it's hard to know what's really true versus what's bogus.

The only thing I know for sure is my personal (subjective) experience with the devices I bought. You posted recently about having three V1.5s that were all going to be returned, but I don't recall that you stated why. My experience with both LTs I purchased recently (however we designate them) has been fine. I have no complaints. As for amp limits (2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 4.0, whatever), both my LTs have performed well at every voltage/resistance combination I've tried. That's by comparison with my 16 other VV mods. No, I haven't tried a 1.5 ohm atty or 1.7 ohm Resurrector at a 6-volt setting, but that's because I don't want to take the chance of needlessly popping an atty or frying a carto, and anyway, I never vape low-res at high voltage anyway. The most I've cranked out on either LT is 12 watts (a 3.0 ohm Boge carto with a setting of 6 volts), and that was only for a minute to see what the vape was like (it was hot and way too intense---would surely have burned the juice if I'd let it fire for more than the three seconds I did).

I'll be curious to find out if these are indeed pirated versions produced in a mystery factory and marketed through front companies, but not because I'm unhappy with mine.

 

[hmlessalky]

Strike part of what I have said in my last few posts. Seems the 1.5 have some issues if you are not careful.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-suppliers-forum/263286-official-cyrstalclearvaping-com-information-thread-59.html

Mine can be forced into this mode, but only if I try. And then it would take the button being pressed to cause any problems.

Maybe waiting or picking up an older version might be the way to go for now.

Salky

 

[Photoplay]

billherbst, I was thinking of buying the new ones from Vapor Beast but want to make sure it doesn't have the issues as stated in the link provided by hmlessalky, post # 581 in the official CCV information thread. Would you mind testing your unit as described and letting us know-Thanks. "...Thats cause you pushed power button 6 times not 5,,,if you push 5 turns off but if you push it again it goes into that low voltage mode just bug in chipset design,,,no big deal, trying to get all people purchased a v1.5 a version 2,,, the issue is very serious,,,tube left sitting on table just shorts out tube and carto so hot can't touch it smoke starts rolling out from inside the tube, mine did it yesterday, i immediately pulled them from site,,,, now most work great but few is to many in my book."

 

[hmlessalky]

Mine goes into this mode if you push the power button 5 times then quickly press the + or - button. It doesn't stay on, but could be dangerous if the trigger was to be pushed for some reason. Or if you power it off and press the power button again then the + or - it can enter this mode.

I guess I will bust out the SSLT if I am going out. I still kinda prefer the 1.5, and I will use it (until possibly replaced) when I am sure it will not see a possible trigger condition.


Salky