Will do, I hope it holds its voltages, but I heard the v6 was pretty good so it sounds hopeful!!
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I couldn't swear to anything in that regard except my results with various error checks. I put the Inline Volt Reader on the V1.5 together with an adapter enabling me to connect a VOM to read the voltage. The IVR always matched the VOM reading. Once I established the max volts for any given ohm vaporizer I would double check that voltage with my Box mod that I know is accurate and compare the vape on both of them and I was satisfied the max volt reading I was getting on the V1.5 was the same vape I was getting on my box mod set at the same voltage.
And finally once the testing is done I set the V1.5 at the max volts, in this case 4.6v with a 1.6ohm DC Clearomizer and compare it to the Box mod again, same results and increasing the volts on the V1.5 makes no difference proving to my satisfaction that I had obtained the max the V1.5 was capable of with that ohm carto.
That said if I set the V1.5 at anything other than 6v the IVR would only flash and the VOM readings were inconsistent.
Errol
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Thanks Errol for sharing the method to the madness. Gets me thinking that I need to build a breakout and that IVM I have been slacking on. Maybe this 'weekend' (for me that is Tue and Wed) I will throw those together.
This is where the lies 'usually' originate...at the point of sale through unreliable agents.
But sometimes they're just outright fabrications with absolutely NO real data or proof for that matter.
But what really irks me is that retailers, even KNOWING the truth, will lie to you anyways to avoid taking substantial losses.....
And I'm not gonna even go into the Apollo fiasco, cuz they were claiming at one time to be manufacturing the SS Tubes themselves....when I know for a FACT they're being purchased from L-Rider!
But that's a whole 'other' story right there....which nobody wanted to believe when I disclosed it 2 months ago!
"What do you mean they're NOT stainless steel?"
Reminiscent of....
"What do you mean they're NOT authentic AW IMR's?"
Remember that one?
lol... i remember that fiasco, and remember it well. I did get to the bottom of that one, at least. Turns out that was just a very new employee who was basically talking out his bum. lol He didn't know, and really did think they were being manufactured by an apollo factory in China. I bashed apollo pretty good over the whole delay debacle, and all the crazy differing info from differing employees, but i have to say, that particular thing... the new guy getting it wrong... that I totally understand. Makes sense to me, for sure.
And yeah, I've run into the whole 'vendor knows darn well there's major issues with a product, and continues to sell it without disclosing' nonsense well. I figure they're shooting themselves in the foot. I'd MUCH rather deal with an incredibly honest vendor. That's why I like Discount Vapers so much. Eric will tell ya the real deal on a product, warts and all.
As a matter of fact, anyone looking for real deal on a product would be wise to subscribe to main thread in his forum, just to learn the known issues with products being sold all over the place. Thats how, when a new vaper askes me about a specific thing, even something I've never tried, I can feel confident telling them known issues. Doesn't come up often, but when it does, I'm thrilled I have that thread. lol
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Welll it might help a little if Apollo weren't advertising it on their website as well?
About Us
"1. Unlike the competition, we have our own high tech R&D and manufacturing facilities, so we produce all our e-cigarettes and e-juice by ourselves. That's why our prices are so much cheaper and our product so much more superior than the competition."
Makes people, like me, second guess their honest & integrity as a whole!
About Us
"1. Unlike the competition, we have our own high tech R&D and manufacturing facilities, so we produce all our e-cigarettes and e-juice by ourselves. That's why our prices are so much cheaper and our product so much more superior than the competition."
Makes people, like me, second guess their honest & integrity as a whole!
Uuuuuummmm, yeah. That definitely casts some serious doubt on the whole story I got, then. What a ridiculous claim.
Uuuuuummmm, yeah. That definitely casts some serious doubt on the whole story I got, then. What a ridiculous claim.
Well you REALLY be upset if I told you everything....
I did disclose it though in a thread here long before Apollo even had them in their hands!
I got slammed by tons of people that bought into the "SS" pre-order that just didn't want to believe that the information I received was valid....even though I KNEW the truth!
Never did get an apology....but I did get 1 lone "OMG, he was right!".
About the only purpose the adapter, or breakout as you call it serves is to verify the voltage of the IVM with a VOM. It will follow the set voltages as you adjust them between 3 and 6v no load but the reading mean nothing when you place it under load unless the LT is set at 6V.
Example: If I set the LT at 4.6v with a 1.6ohm DC Clearomizer the VOM will read 3.25 and rises or drops with the LT settings but the Vape is the same until the LT is set lower than 4.6v.
You don't really need a IVM if you are setup for a VOM, it's just a great deal more convenient even though it will only read the voltages with the LT set a 6v. The VOM will read voltages at any setting reasonably accurately with no load.
FWIW IVM or VOM work accurately at any voltage loaded or unloaded on the LT V1.
Errol
*IVM= Inline Volt Meter.
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A IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh with the "AW" sticker that came with my original LT V1 from Volcano. Have a couple that came in a kit from Totally Wicked that say they are IMR 18650 3.7v 2200mAh with a MadVapes cover. All three gave the same reading + or -.01v depending on whether they were fresh off the charger.
Errol
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Being a two battery unit. 6.6v min to 8.4v max it will hold whatever voltage you enter up to the limits of the 2.5amps it's rated at. You can use an ohms law calculator online to see what that is.
Errol
PSA
And forgive me if this has already been brought to your attention. Anyone who bought a version 1.5... that's the one with the supposed 3.2 amp switch, and the built in ohm meter... apparently there is an issue with them smoking by themselves when in a low power state. I don't know all of who sold them, but I know CCV is doing a recall and replacing them with the v2 LTs. So contact your vendor, ASAP! And in the meantime, if you have another unit, use it instead. If not... babysit the tar out of your pv while you're using it, and remove batts when you're not, please! Better safe than sorry. lol Here's the link to CCV thread where they're disclosing the issue. And I know for some of you this is old news, but I just realized some people were not made aware, and figured this was good place to mention it. And if you know anyone who bought one, please let them know. Thank you... now back to your regularly scheduled broadcast...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-com-information-thread-63.html#post6219851
And forgive me if this has already been brought to your attention. Anyone who bought a version 1.5... that's the one with the supposed 3.2 amp switch, and the built in ohm meter... apparently there is an issue with them smoking by themselves when in a low power state. I don't know all of who sold them, but I know CCV is doing a recall and replacing them with the v2 LTs. So contact your vendor, ASAP! And in the meantime, if you have another unit, use it instead. If not... babysit the tar out of your pv while you're using it, and remove batts when you're not, please! Better safe than sorry. lol Here's the link to CCV thread where they're disclosing the issue. And I know for some of you this is old news, but I just realized some people were not made aware, and figured this was good place to mention it. And if you know anyone who bought one, please let them know. Thank you... now back to your regularly scheduled broadcast...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-com-information-thread-63.html#post6219851
Errol, I was going to build the IVM for convienience and the breakout to use with my Fluke to test volts, ohms, etc. I have been meaning to put them together ever since I built my first box mod. Just been busy. And lazy. I'm gonna go with mostly busy....
Had to look Fluke up but it appears from what little I read that you can get a much better idea of what the true AMP rating is on these PVs with your equipment. Hope you find time soon so you can tell us what is and isn't.
Errol
IMHO it's best to just wait until the release of L-Rider's newest revision..
These other units seem half ..... The ohm checker is nice but at the cost of a new battery meter, that doesn't tell you what your battery level is at with two significant digits.. so if you like charging your battery @ 3.6v you wouldn't know looking at a meter on the side..
Also this PWM is Fubar !! Hopefully L-rider will come out with a linear type(like the original LT) power supply that sustains voltage with little fluctuation or drop under load.. Along with ohm checker and a higher limit amp switch, and it will be worth the wait..
I doubt you'll see everything you want with L-riders next version because if they give the people everything they want.. Who is going to buy their next premier version 6 months down the road ???
These other units seem half ..... The ohm checker is nice but at the cost of a new battery meter, that doesn't tell you what your battery level is at with two significant digits.. so if you like charging your battery @ 3.6v you wouldn't know looking at a meter on the side..
Also this PWM is Fubar !! Hopefully L-rider will come out with a linear type(like the original LT) power supply that sustains voltage with little fluctuation or drop under load.. Along with ohm checker and a higher limit amp switch, and it will be worth the wait..
I doubt you'll see everything you want with L-riders next version because if they give the people everything they want.. Who is going to buy their next premier version 6 months down the road ???
Errol, I will put it all together on my weekend (tue and wed), and I will take into account your methods and share any info you'd like. I do a lot of electrical troubleshooting, it was tough to pony up for a Fluke (ended up buying a second one just for home use), but it really is the best out there without going into super high-dollar laboratory grade stuff. If you watch eBay you can pick one up for a decent price, and it is so worth it. I really want to see how it reads with the PWM active, it samples so fast it should be able to record the max and min quite easily.
CJB, I actually prefer the simplicity of the battery meter. It is nice to see how much voltage the battery has, but if the device is working as it should it should not matter. I actually ran a battery in each to shut-down in both models and switched the to the other device. In my experience, the V1 would function a few times more before it shut down, the V1.5 would just go into shutdown.
As far as PWM, I can say the vape experience was about the same, with V1 seeming a stronger but not much. On the other hand, the V1.5 seemed to have a better battery life overall. Not sure if this was completely due to the PWM, but on my V1 my IMR 1600 batteries lasted just over a day, while on the V1.5 they lasted about a day and a half. This was not a planned experiment, just a general observation. Also, maybe it is just me, but the old version seemed to drop off more than the newer when the battery hit about 3.7v. Once again, it could be just me, but that is how it seemed.
Alright. That is all I have for now. Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
CJB, I actually prefer the simplicity of the battery meter. It is nice to see how much voltage the battery has, but if the device is working as it should it should not matter. I actually ran a battery in each to shut-down in both models and switched the to the other device. In my experience, the V1 would function a few times more before it shut down, the V1.5 would just go into shutdown.
As far as PWM, I can say the vape experience was about the same, with V1 seeming a stronger but not much. On the other hand, the V1.5 seemed to have a better battery life overall. Not sure if this was completely due to the PWM, but on my V1 my IMR 1600 batteries lasted just over a day, while on the V1.5 they lasted about a day and a half. This was not a planned experiment, just a general observation. Also, maybe it is just me, but the old version seemed to drop off more than the newer when the battery hit about 3.7v. Once again, it could be just me, but that is how it seemed.
Alright. That is all I have for now. Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
FWIW I did extensive output voltage testing on the V1 on several different ohm atties at each battery level from 4.2v to 3.3V at one volt increments under load and the difference between fully charged and 3.3v on the output averaged 1.3v.
Know very little about PWM circuitry but from what I've read about the VMax it appears it can be troublesome.
Errol
Know very little about PWM circuitry but from what I've read about the VMax it appears it can be troublesome.
Errol
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