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He meant use a the smaller 18350 battery to shorten up your rig.
- Andy . . . Challenge the day.
- Andy . . . Challenge the day.
The way I see it, the current, seeking a path to the nr wire and on to the positive terminal of the batt, runs into enough resistance in the mesh to cause heat, hence vaporize the juice it's soaking up. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
But don't feel bad. As I stated, I thought it was insanity too... until I thought about it, and then watched the vid. Gonna try it again when I get some more nr wire. If you stop hearing from me, assume I burned the house down
Does anyone have the same issue as me? my term -c tank keeps cracking in several spots on the sides. My original one cracked, so I bought another and that started getting hair line cracks. So I bought one more, and it was good for about a day, and now, the hair line cracks are appearing on the side. I use the same juice in my rsst genny, and the tank doesn't seem to crack...so i wonder what i'm doing wrong here...
Rsst is polyp and the term-c tank is polycarbonate, which is probably why it is cracking.
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yup, but the waiting list is something like 200 people long.
Never mind, just got an email back from the maker.....150 PLN per each "full kit".
Not bad....$45 per kit....and no more nr/r/nr set ups!!
Yup. Sorry there was an 'f' 't' 'w' on there for For The Win but the forum software edited it out. But yeah, I plan on using my term c with a mod in 18350 mode.
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Sometimes those mall kiosks for jewelry making have dead soft silver .999 NR wire but prepare to be bent over
Riogrande website is like 20 cents a foot and those malls charge 2$ a foot and if you're new you'll be going through a crap load of NR wire
Riogrande website is like 20 cents a foot and those malls charge 2$ a foot and if you're new you'll be going through a crap load of NR wire
Well.. hats off to you guys and gals who have this thing running well.. I got my Term-C in yesterday and surprisingly the nr-r-nr setup isn't that difficult to work out. My problem is flooding. Not even so much flooding more like funneling liquid through the 510 connection. So far this atty is holding nic juice about as well as a coffee filter holds water.
I am hoping my problem is simply that xc-132 is too small and allows juice to flow down freely, although I'm afraid I may have cross threaded the ceramic holder thing into the base.. it's doesn't look crooked but I don't see ho else juice can be flowing out the bottom of this thing so quickly.
Ordering some 2mm silica today (thought I was done with silica for good, sigh). I know it'll be a few days at least before I'll have some silica, while I wait for shipping though I may try cotton for the first time ever. This thing looks so awesome on my EA MOD I want it to work sooo bad!!
Has anyone used cotton in these successfully?
*edit- I am going back through and reading the thread, but I'm only on about page 18 so far
I am hoping my problem is simply that xc-132 is too small and allows juice to flow down freely, although I'm afraid I may have cross threaded the ceramic holder thing into the base.. it's doesn't look crooked but I don't see ho else juice can be flowing out the bottom of this thing so quickly.
Ordering some 2mm silica today (thought I was done with silica for good, sigh). I know it'll be a few days at least before I'll have some silica, while I wait for shipping though I may try cotton for the first time ever. This thing looks so awesome on my EA MOD I want it to work sooo bad!!
Has anyone used cotton in these successfully?
*edit- I am going back through and reading the thread, but I'm only on about page 18 so far
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Flooding like that generally indicates an insufficient seal around the mouthpiece. Crank the top collar down to make the top o-ring bulge in around the mouthpiece and create an airtight seal. A little Vaseline on that o-ring couldn't hurt either. But if you feel a little resistance opening and closing the juice control, that's how you know the top collar is screwed down tight enough.
I also replaced the bottom-most o-ring with a carto plug to keep from having so much positive post sticking out of the 510 connection.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
I also replaced the bottom-most o-ring with a carto plug to keep from having so much positive post sticking out of the 510 connection.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
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Well.. hats off to you guys and gals who have this thing running well.. I got my Term-C in yesterday and surprisingly the nr-r-nr setup isn't that difficult to work out. My problem is flooding. Not even so much flooding more like funneling liquid through the 510 connection. So far this atty is holding nic juice about as well as a coffee filter holds water.
I am hoping my problem is simply that xc-132 is too small and allows juice to flow down freely, although I'm afraid I may have cross threaded the ceramic holder thing into the base.. it's doesn't look crooked but I don't see ho else juice can be flowing out the bottom of this thing so quickly.
Ordering some 2mm silica today (thought I was done with silica for good, sigh). I know it'll be a few days at least before I'll have some silica, while I wait for shipping though I may try cotton for the first time ever. This thing looks so awesome on my EA MOD I want it to work sooo bad!!
Has anyone used cotton in these successfully?
*edit- I am going back through and reading the thread, but I'm only on about page 18 so far
Think of it like this - right where you wrap your coil is where your air hole is to your 510 connection - so if you just used it as a dripper and it flooded - it means you put too much juice or you don't have enough wick
Make sure your coil is doubled and make sure the side channels are snug - I use 3.5 mm wick and remove a strand or two to fit perfect
If you're getting that much flooding then juice is coming through the closes mouth piece /juice control
Forgot to add - I use cotton a lot but usually silica - when I have more silica on order I use cotton - make up pads and its easier to twist and roll up into the channels - just can't try burn for hot spots
I'm starting to only use cotton when I make a coil first with a screw - like in an iGo-l or iGo-s and then I pull the cotton through it after I've checked for hot spots
I disagree with most of that. Juice flow control isn't intended to create a liquid-tight seal. Even fully closed, there's going to be a gap underneath the nr wire retention ring the width of your nr wire's thickness. If it were not meant to be so, o-rings would be included in the design of the juice flow control.
What keeps the Ody and its clones from draining all the juice out through that gap is that the rest of the tank is air tight. For juice to drain, it has to be displaced by air. If the seal at the mouthpiece is air tight, air cannot get in uninvited, low pressure is maintained in the tank, and the juice will not leak.
The number of coils you have or the type of wick you employ has little bearing on whether your Terminator leaks. I use a single strand of 3mm silica and a 3-wrap 34 gauge kanthal coil (around 2 ohms) with incredible success.
I've even left the channels unwicked and run just enough wick to lay across the top of the ceramic, and not had leaks.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
What keeps the Ody and its clones from draining all the juice out through that gap is that the rest of the tank is air tight. For juice to drain, it has to be displaced by air. If the seal at the mouthpiece is air tight, air cannot get in uninvited, low pressure is maintained in the tank, and the juice will not leak.
The number of coils you have or the type of wick you employ has little bearing on whether your Terminator leaks. I use a single strand of 3mm silica and a 3-wrap 34 gauge kanthal coil (around 2 ohms) with incredible success.
I've even left the channels unwicked and run just enough wick to lay across the top of the ceramic, and not had leaks.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
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Rojo - don't mean to be a pain but you contradicted yourself in 2 posts
First post you said flooding had to do with liquid coming into mouthpiece and to make sure is closed and flat
Then your last post said it has nothing to do with the mouth piece
I'm on my phone so I can't quote multiple posts but let me know which one you actually believe
Here is the first post
First post you said flooding had to do with liquid coming into mouthpiece and to make sure is closed and flat
Then your last post said it has nothing to do with the mouth piece
I'm on my phone so I can't quote multiple posts but let me know which one you actually believe
Here is the first post
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His first post dealt with the o-ring seal at the top of the mouthpiece, thus his advice (which I agree with) to crank the top collar down to compress that top o-ring.
I changed 3 things and now have no leaks
I put a carto plug on the positive post, ran the neg nr lead along the threads eliminating the (miniscule) gap below the locking ring, and threaded the atty assembly on straight.. I'm still not 100% sure but I think I may have actually cross threaded it.
Top o-ring wasn't an issue, it's plenty tight.
I put a carto plug on the positive post, ran the neg nr lead along the threads eliminating the (miniscule) gap below the locking ring, and threaded the atty assembly on straight.. I'm still not 100% sure but I think I may have actually cross threaded it.
Top o-ring wasn't an issue, it's plenty tight.
@Rojo - The thing I don't understand is why you need a carto plug to keep from having too much of the pin sticking out the 510. I thought the user determins the position of the pin out the bottom simply by how far you screw on the base???
StaircaseWit interpreted my comments as I meant them. I apologize if my comments seemed to contradict each other. They were intended to state the same idea in different ways. Sealing the top of the tank by cranking the top collar down onto the top o-ring, making it swell laterally against the mouthpiece, will keep juice from leaking out of the bottom of the tank through the juice control. Here's a demonstration of the physics I was trying to describe:
I changed 3 things and now have no leaks
I put a carto plug on the positive post, ran the neg nr lead along the threads eliminating the (miniscule) gap below the locking ring, and threaded the atty assembly on straight.. I'm still not 100% sure but I think I may have actually cross threaded it.
Top o-ring wasn't an issue, it's plenty tight.
Glad you got it working
I usually run about an inch of the negative NR wire along the threads under the knurled ring -- not enough to wrap around the entire ceramic assembly, but simply because I'm too lazy to break off the extra NR wire and find a trash can for it.You're probably right, but it bugged me that I wasn't encountering any tactile resistance screwing the base on until a good chunk of the positive pin was exposed beyond the 510 collar. The carto plug helps me, even if it's just a mental trick and not strictly necessary. I like knowing the bottom collector reservoir is sealed.
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