Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[Vego]

I was thinking that perhaps you simply prefered to have the housing ride lower on the cup assembly so that there was more channel wick available for wicking... which doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. But if you consider that these things are all machined the same way, and most of us are adjusting the housing so that the pin is just about even, more or less, with the edge of the 510, then you're setup, with a lower seated base, would seem to result in the pin actually being left receeded into the connector. At least that's the way my kooky mind sees it.

Anyway, whatever works for you is the best setup for sure! vape on.

 

[Statistic]

It does leave the pos post recessed a bit, on mine at least. The reason I am liking it better is I feel like I can tighten the housing down on it really snug and the floating pin in my ea is less likely to break the seal than it is with the o-ring and release whatever juice has made it's way down under the cup.

 

[dwcraig1]

The proper way ( 510 only) is to screw the base only onto the mod till it bottoms on the crown of the mods 510 connector and then screw in the ceramic housing assembly till it makes good contact with the positive post of the mod and then lock down the ring. Leaving it to dance on the positive post of the mod is trouble coming your way soon.
It will eat that little grommet in the 510 connection of your mod

 

[JuniorNA]

StaircaseWit interpreted my comments as I meant them. I apologize if my comments seemed to contradict each other. They were intended to state the same idea in different ways. Sealing the top of the tank by cranking the top collar down onto the top o-ring, making it swell laterally against the mouthpiece, will keep juice from leaking out of the bottom of the tank through the juice control. Here's a demonstration of the physics I was trying to describe:





Glad you got it working I usually run about an inch of the negative NR wire along the threads under the knurled ring -- not enough to wrap around the entire ceramic assembly, but simply because I'm too lazy to break off the extra NR wire and find a trash can for it.



You're probably right, but it bugged me that I wasn't encountering any tactile resistance screwing the base on until a good chunk of the positive pin was exposed beyond the 510 collar. The carto plug helps me, even if it's just a mental trick and not strictly necessary. I like knowing the bottom collector reservoir is sealed.

Gotcha - Now it makes sense when I re-read it - thanks for further explaining

 

[crss]

I just finished this thread in full, took 3 days of reading. GREAT INFO!!

I have been enjoying my TERM-C from stormys a few weeks now. I would like to thank all ECF MBR's that have posted in this thread. My 1st build = dud, 2nd build = dud. 3rd build and good 1ohm coil, 3m wick v2 Term-C... SUPER!! I liked the Term-C so much, i got 2 more. Now just waiting on a few oddy-ggts bases and i am set. I have 2 MKB-TS's, great mod.

 

[dwcraig1]

I really feel I should post this here also, I had put it in the MKB-TS thread but it may help more Terminator users here.
QUOTE:
Originally Posted by crss
This "BLUE" tank + tip... looks kind of purple, but this is just working great on m Term-C from STORMY's on my SG-1 on #8 sig. I did notice that my Term-c does not like to change mods.... it will start to leak out the base. Noticed by a wet - gurggle hit. I will set my Term-c up & leave it on the mod i set it up for. I dont plan on putting a "gurggling" tank on my new GUS22...... I might try next month, but by then i should have the ggts- oddy base in hand x2. sorry for miss typing, but its hump day and i am drinking some vodka... done cleaning parts.

QUOTE:
Changing mods really shouldn't be doing much unless the positive post is not tight in the ceramic housing. The way to tighten it is after is in a near tight position slid down the bottom o-ring and grip that spot just under the positive wires nut with nettle nose pliers and turn the ceramic housing with your fingers. Don't use a screw driver for that final tightening. The shaft is brass so it can be broken but I make mine pretty darn tight.

And if you find it is not loose then look to the top tank collars o-ring for an air leak as this is the usual reason they leak/gurgle.

 

[plastictree]

Has anyone used this with a fusionmods hybrid sigelei #8

 

[crss]

Has anyone used this with a fusionmods hybrid sigelei #8

Yes, i have the Terminator-c + SG-1 adapter on my Sig#8. Also a medium tank on my Terminator-C + SG-1 adapter... I need 2, just because. The Terminator is a great top for the sig's. Matches the tube size and finish. The AG*'s, not such a great top on a sig. The Terminator is a gap less add on to the sig #8, #13 and #19 with the SG-1 adapter.

 

[UA72Riddle]

I just finished this thread in full, took 3 days of reading. GREAT INFO!!

I have been enjoying my TERM-C from stormys a few weeks now. I would like to thank all ECF MBR's that have posted in this thread. My 1st build = dud, 2nd build = dud. 3rd build and good 1ohm coil, 3m wick v2 Term-C... SUPER!! I liked the Term-C so much, i got 2 more. Now just waiting on a few oddy-ggts bases and i am set. I have 2 MKB-TS's, great mod.

Not sure if you have seen it yet, but there is another great thread full of info on the MKB....with a lot of the same members in this thread. I just posted (a pretty long post too) about a leaking collector tank fix on there.

I'll post a quick version here too...

For those finding juice leaking past the insulator in the collector tank of the MKB...simple fix for it...

Remove the insulator and center pin assembly (it usually comes out together).

Find a dt you don't use and rob the oring off of it. Install the oring where the insulator screws in and push it all the way in.

Screw the insulator/center pin assembly back in and snug tight with tweezers or pliers, but be careful not to over tighten and strip the threads.

Now you have a good seal, and no leaks. I filled the collector tank with water...didn't have one drop come through.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Here is the link....

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9867331#post9867331

 

[StaircaseWit]

The proper way ( 510 only) is to screw the base only onto the mod till it bottoms on the crown of the mods 510 connector and then screw in the ceramic housing assembly till it makes good contact with the positive post of the mod and then lock down the ring. Leaving it to dance on the positive post of the mod is trouble coming your way soon.
It will eat that little grommet in the 510 connection of your mod

I did that after watching one of the Oddy setup videos, but airflow was almost non-existent on the provari. I now tighten it to leave just about 1mm of post protruding and it works fine. YMMV.

 

[dwcraig1]

I did that after watching one of the Oddy setup videos, but airflow was almost non-existent on the provari. I now tighten it to leave just about 1mm of post protruding and it works fine. YMMV.

On the Oddy v1 this was a problem using a Provari, Oddy v2 had grooves cut across the bottom of the base to eliminate that problem.
The Terminators 510 connection protrudes slightly from the bottom of the base so as not to cut off the air when the top of a mods 510 is even with it's top cap, most manufacturers leave theirs stick out about 1 mm.

 

[StaircaseWit]

On the Oddy v1 this was a problem using a Provari, Oddy v2 had grooves cut across the bottom of the base to eliminate that problem.
The Terminators 510 connection protrudes slightly from the bottom of the base so as not to cut off the air when the top of a mods 510 is even with it's top cap, most manufacturers leave theirs stick out about 1 mm.

That's why I leave the connection about 1mm proud of the base. I have a V1 Term-c. Just pointing out that cranking down the base on the provari first, then inserting the ceramic housing and tightening until resistance is felt doesn't work on the provari, at least with a V1 term (and I don't think they changed the base design on V2).

 

[dwcraig1]

The base on the Term v2 is the same as v1.
At least on the Provari the 510 socket can be serviced or replaced easily.

 

[Technonut]

The base on the Term v2 is the same as v1.
At least on the Provari the 510 socket can be serviced or replaced easily.

I love the fact that the MKB-TS accepts the Oddy / Terminator GGTS connector.. The adjustable draw works quite well.. I enjoy fine-tuning it to suit whatever juice I'm vaping. Some of my DIY tobacco blends taste totally different with a tighter, slow draw compared to medium or loose, and vice-versa.

The connection it's self is strong enough to be beaten over a cinder-block without coming apart. Much better than the small diameter 510, which was designed to join small e-cig stick batteries to small attys.. Not the heavy RBAs we have now.

 

[dwcraig1]

For those wanting "Ready Wires" and are using a VV mod and think $1 each is just not right maybe these are for you, if they had them in 1.5 ohms I'd give them a try but they only have them in 2.2 ohms.
2.2 Ohm Coil, 50 Pack

They as of now only have 7 packs left, they also have them in 3 ohms.

 

[Statistic]

Well... the Terminator its growing on me. It took a couple days for it to start hitting well, and I think this first coil I made for it probably isn't the best (first experience with NR wire). I just got some 2mm Ekowool in today and I've decided that before I build my next coil I'm gonna make a wire zapper for better nr-r-nr joins... wish me luck! Lol

 

[crss]

Well... the Terminator its growing on me. It took a couple days for it to start hitting well, and I think this first coil I made for it probably isn't the best (first experience with NR wire). I just got some 2mm Ekowool in today and I've decided that before I build my next coil I'm gonna make a wire zapper for better nr-r-nr joins... wish me luck! Lol

I also REALY LIKE MY TERMINATOR-C (total of 3 now) Perfect on my Sig #8 + SG-1 adapter. Now waiting for the oddy base to drop onto my mkb-ts, will be a daily mod. I am a field tech for a large phone company, so i need a device thats compact, wont leak & i can carry in my tool pouch. The Term-C fits the bill, learning the nr-r-nr wire is not that bad. pretty simple compaired to other choices. I also wanted to get the "zapper" but am confident with my wire knotts now. 1ohm or 1.2 ohm 32g kenthal on silver nr wire. 3m wick with another 3m wick on the coil. It took 3 builds to get a great set up. I read this thread and a few more, waiting for my 1st Term-C. I only have great words for this device and the members that have posted ALL information about it. Next mod will be my mkb-ts axis, just because. Have a great friday n vape.

 

[JuniorNA]

Kinda off topic but on topic - love the euphoria - fits nice on smaller mods - from now on its either the term or euphoria or any other silica rebuildables - I like them too much to go back to genesis style




Polished euphoria on my brassed out KTS storm -

 

[JuniorNA]

For those wanting "Ready Wires" and are using a VV mod and think $1 each is just not right maybe these are for you, if they had them in 1.5 ohms I'd give them a try but they only have them in 2.2 ohms.
2.2 Ohm Coil, 50 Pack

They as of now only have 7 packs left, they also have them in 3 ohms.

I can't find it for the life of me now but COV used to have 1.7 and 1.2 ready wires 25 for 25$ but I can't find them now