This does look like a great combo, guess i will put the euphoria back on my want list. Nice flat top there.. How is the fit on the tapered top?
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This does look like a great combo, guess i will put the euphoria back on my want list. Nice flat top there.. How is the fit on the tapered top?
I have not touched my gennies in the past 2 months. For myself, it's been rebuildable silica base designed drippers and tank systems.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
I seem to be having luck with nr-r-nr joints using the basic method (no square knot, zapper or beads) but with plyers. I used to just use plyers to hold the joint while making the last wrap of nr around the main wrap. But now I'm using them to do all the wrapping, which seems to afford an overall tighter wrap. I think it was chadsmo who mentioned doing it this way a few pages back... at least the only post I saw about it. Apologies to anyobe who's mentioned it before. 1.3ohm holding steady now for 3 days. Only regret is not getting a 1ohmer.
That's the funny part - I always hated taper tops - everything I purchased - always had the flat tops in mind - I spent 40 bucks for shipping from Greece for a stainless steel top for the Evic and then joytech comes out with a 5$ flat top version the next day - doh:
Anyway - the kts storm I bought came with the flat top - it wasn't 22mm - more like 21 - and with the tapered top which I don't have --- it comes out to 20 but the euphoria is 17 or 18 mm OD - so even with the tapered top I don't think it's an exact match - but again not sure
Here it is with the original Evic top cap
Nothing off topic about Euforia, she wasn't born yet when this thread was started but she's family none the less. Term always said he wanted a little sister just like Oddy's.
I really like the looks of this tank.
I don't have this, I just admire it BTW
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The euphoria would look nice on a slant top precise plus. Here's the Penelope on my p+ 18500.
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Just a heads-up... Received an e-mail from Stormy's saying they will have the long, clear Terminator tanks next week. 
Just a heads-up... Received an e-mail from Stormy's saying they will have the long, clear Terminator tanks next week.
Of course they will have them - because I just paid 2x more for shipping from Greece !!! The stormy clear tank will prob still beat the other vendor to my door step ! Anyway I really love it
Penelope is def the little sister but she is is the sister that can kick the crap out of her big brothers friends
I include myself in the group that thinks $1 per wire is too much. They are from GG, just like all their products they are in limited supply.
Some 0.8 for single coil and 1.5's for dual coil would do nicely for me.
That's a good looking tank and set up dw!
I might get the log clear tank, but I kind of like the way the term-c looks as is...especially with it mounted hybrid style on the MKB.
I might get the log clear tank, but I kind of like the way the term-c looks as is...especially with it mounted hybrid style on the MKB.
Same here, but I use a "modified" version of the basic method:
I hold the ends of two wires with a miniature vise-grip. Run the R around the NR once, then the NR around the R a few times. Pop it out of the vise-grip, trim if necessary. Comes out solid, tiny, and easy. Works great with ribbon, too.
I used to stress about making the R-NR connections. Knots were a fail. Once I started doing it this way, I don't even lust after a zapper (and can't fathom "ready-wires", may as well buy cartos).
I hold the ends of two wires with a miniature vise-grip. Run the R around the NR once, then the NR around the R a few times. Pop it out of the vise-grip, trim if necessary. Comes out solid, tiny, and easy. Works great with ribbon, too.
I used to stress about making the R-NR connections. Knots were a fail. Once I started doing it this way, I don't even lust after a zapper (and can't fathom "ready-wires", may as well buy cartos).
I didn't realize people struggled that much making R+NR coils. The only tool I use is scissors, and I don't often have to trim off excess wire or wick. Here's how I do it:
Leaving the res and non-res wire on their spools, pinch the ends under your thumbnail leaving about 1/2 inch exposed.
Twist the wires about 5 - 7 half-turns, until the length of the twist is longer than the length of the untwisted ends.
Now fold the untwisted ends back on top of the twist.
Up until now you've been holding the R and NR wire under your thumb, both wires going backward. Now, bend the NR wire forward and wrap it around the twist and bent-back tips a few times to secure the joint.
At this point, it's finally time to cut the wires. For a Penelope / Euforia, cut your NR wire about 1 1/2 inches long. For an Ody / Term, about 2 inches. For your res wire, you probably know better than I what length you like. Be sure to leave an extra 1/2 inch on your res wire to repeat the above process to complete your coil.
I'm making this coil for a Penelope using 34 gauge res wire. To get about a 2 ohm coil, I need about 1/2 inch of res wire + 1/2 inch for the second R+NR joint. You'll notice that my non-res wire is about 1 1/2 inches, and my res wire is about an inch.
After repeating the process to complete the assembled wire, I end up with a nice little 3-turn-over-2 coil for my Penelope. This one will probably meter about 1.8 ohms. I usually go for about 2 ohms, but taking pictures while building was an unfamiliar obstacle.
My positive NR wire is about 1 1/2 inches, and the negative is about an inch. I'll probably either have to break off a quarter inch of the negative end after assembly, or just run the extra along the threads. There should be no extra for the positive, and it's not crucial whether the wick reaches the bottom o-ring or even the bottoms of the ceramic assembly channels. It doesn't take long before you can eyeball measure the appropriate lengths and get close enough on every attempt.
Leaving the res and non-res wire on their spools, pinch the ends under your thumbnail leaving about 1/2 inch exposed.
Twist the wires about 5 - 7 half-turns, until the length of the twist is longer than the length of the untwisted ends.
Now fold the untwisted ends back on top of the twist.
Up until now you've been holding the R and NR wire under your thumb, both wires going backward. Now, bend the NR wire forward and wrap it around the twist and bent-back tips a few times to secure the joint.
At this point, it's finally time to cut the wires. For a Penelope / Euforia, cut your NR wire about 1 1/2 inches long. For an Ody / Term, about 2 inches. For your res wire, you probably know better than I what length you like. Be sure to leave an extra 1/2 inch on your res wire to repeat the above process to complete your coil.
I'm making this coil for a Penelope using 34 gauge res wire. To get about a 2 ohm coil, I need about 1/2 inch of res wire + 1/2 inch for the second R+NR joint. You'll notice that my non-res wire is about 1 1/2 inches, and my res wire is about an inch.
After repeating the process to complete the assembled wire, I end up with a nice little 3-turn-over-2 coil for my Penelope. This one will probably meter about 1.8 ohms. I usually go for about 2 ohms, but taking pictures while building was an unfamiliar obstacle.
My positive NR wire is about 1 1/2 inches, and the negative is about an inch. I'll probably either have to break off a quarter inch of the negative end after assembly, or just run the extra along the threads. There should be no extra for the positive, and it's not crucial whether the wick reaches the bottom o-ring or even the bottoms of the ceramic assembly channels. It doesn't take long before you can eyeball measure the appropriate lengths and get close enough on every attempt.
It appears that way. However, the Term C may very well be the first NR-R-NR wire assembly for many people.
Regardless, of experience, the said wire assembly can be easily mastered in very short time with practice.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
Regardless, of experience, the said wire assembly can be easily mastered in very short time with practice.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
Great tutorial rojo. I think your method is the easiest so far.
BTW. To take pictures of small objects a camera needs an extension tube to extend lense from the body and a filter for the flash. A tube might cost a few bucks and a filter can be made from paper.
Has anyone bothered to order the Odysseus V2 510 base connector for their Terminators?
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
no one has mentioned it yet, so far everyone has been getting the GG Oddy base to mount it on the MKB.
Thanks for the tut Rojo. This is indeed my first experience with nr wire and joining wires like this. Though the joins are tricky I am not having too much trouble making them. The reason I want to build a zapper is I am using 28gKanthal and 32gNR wire so the joins are pretty big and bulky. The joins take up a lot of space in the assembly, at first I had them in the channels and I think that was choking the wicks, then I had them right inside and the joins were glowing before the center of my coil.
I figured zapping them would allow me to make a great solid connection that is compact in size.
I figured zapping them would allow me to make a great solid connection that is compact in size.
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I generally tuck my joins inside the ceramic cup.
For 32 and 30 gauge I just make my wraps closer together. I've never tried 28 gauge though.
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For 32 and 30 gauge I just make my wraps closer together. I've never tried 28 gauge though.
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When I started to use the Diver, I was forced to perfect my NR/R marriages, as the smaller ceramic cup devices do not allow much room for large wire marriages.
It all comes with practice. If an old trifocal wearing personal, such as myself, can do it . . . Anyone can.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
It all comes with practice. If an old trifocal wearing personal, such as myself, can do it . . . Anyone can.
- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.
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