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Mine arrived today. Test fit them all but not wicked or coiled yet. My threads were clean and burr free. Everything fits together like a glove.
Add to that I just made some awesome raz lemonade diy which is totally delicious.
Add to that I just made some awesome raz lemonade diy which is totally delicious.
I hope mine are that clean when they get here. I opted out for the DT adapter piece....wasnt really worth it to me for what the parts were, being separate pieces to make a whole mouthpiece. I just got the basic kits and spares that come with it. I made a mix of a grenada clone, was waiting for my kits to get here to use it. After no movement, decided to put it in my Term-C....and glad i did too. It shattered my clear tank...literally...and right in the middle of me using it! Talk about a mess....lol Full Term-C worth of juice all over me. I have on clear left that I will use with my peach or my banana tobacco, and will have a full ss tank for my grenada, orange, and my citrus lemonade mixes.
I got 3 full kits but don't see me using the adaptor for own driptip. I would have to dig through my old stuff to find something to put between the stems. That is a pain in the rear. The built in tip is fine in the mouth. I love the kayfun drip tips and the clone tip is similar diameter and mouth feel.
Long Clear Tank for Terminator C
also Ithaka clone is at Stormy's
Stormy's Ithaka clone appears to include the drip tip mouthpiece, My Hercules from Vapor Freak from what I can see doesn't
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nice....thats the exact reasons i didnt get it. I liked the orion for the integrated mouthpiece, as well as my term, so this should be fine as well....
wow....didnt expect that price tag! I paid $40 for mine including an extra ceramic and priority shipping! 
yes, mine is at cost from a group buy, but that is still one hell of a mark up......
yes, mine is at cost from a group buy, but that is still one hell of a mark up......
I got my conversion kits today! The threads were fine. I like the vapor production. Jury is still out on taste for now until I get some use under my belt. I am liking it better than the normal Terminator setup. I am using the 3mm Ekowool and 4 wraps Kanthal .5mm ribbon wire. Don't have the ability to test the ohms until I get home.
I am with upsetter21. Driving and hitting bumps is going to lead to a chipped tooth one of these days.
Hostile, take apart your center pin. Maybe replace the rectangular insulation piece. I noticed my center wobbling around in 510 section when I wiggled the center post. Perhaps something is not sitting flush in there and it making your center pin lay askew.
I am with upsetter21. Driving and hitting bumps is going to lead to a chipped tooth one of these days.
Hostile, take apart your center pin. Maybe replace the rectangular insulation piece. I noticed my center wobbling around in 510 section when I wiggled the center post. Perhaps something is not sitting flush in there and it making your center pin lay askew.
Well, went a little crazy and got one of these guys... Zapper
Looks like a nice item that will really come in handy for the Nautilus and Hercules
Looks like a nice item that will really come in handy for the Nautilus and Hercules
I saw a photo in the classies of a european forum of a bunch of GG clone gear - didn't know there's a ufs clone out there. But more astounding was the Ithaka clone shown new in box. Printed on the box... "Magoo, Together Best Cooperation".
Anyone else tripped over the Magoo? Obviously China's marketting team is unaware of the cartoon with the blind old man who can't drive, but never crashes his car, only creates utter chaos arround him...
Anyone else tripped over the Magoo? Obviously China's marketting team is unaware of the cartoon with the blind old man who can't drive, but never crashes his car, only creates utter chaos arround him...
Honestly it wouldn't surprise if Rainbow and Tobeco operated out of the same building.
Here is my first attempt at dual micro coils in a Term with cotton yarn, the coils were really good before I put them in, I needed to keep the toothpicks in the coil when mounting but they wouldn't fit so this is how they ended up, it work good though.
I'll try on Ithaka next time, after I get another, hate to use my main vape for experiments this close to work time.
It works way better than it looks BTW
@ 0.9 ohms
Here is my first attempt at dual micro coils in a Term with cotton yarn, the coils were really good before I put them in, I needed to keep the toothpicks in the coil when mounting but they wouldn't fit so this is how they ended up, it work good though.
I'll try on Ithaka next time, after I get another, hate to use my main vape for experiments this close to work time.
It works way better than it looks BTW
@ 0.9 ohms
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I'm sure the parts are all slapped out by the same shops. However, I doubt tobeco will ever understand the top-nut & oring.
Here is the Oddy/Nautty-fun on an MKB collector and a GG. The atomizer on it's own is the Tobeco MP mod for drip tips on a Oddy/Nautty. This config shows GGTS Base, kir fanis medium clear window, sotong BYO ring. The overall tank length is the same as two standard rainbow tanks.
So I finally picked up a few of these things. I got the version 2 model terminators. I'm wondering if anyone else is having issues with juice leaking out from the bottom of the 510 connection and how to go about fixing it.
Also, what ohm's are is everyone running with much mods? I'm way more used to sub-ohm genesis atomizers and RBA drippers. The one I built tonight is set to 1.5ohms but doesn't seem to give me the amount of vapor I'm looking for.
I'm new to these kinds of devices. I've never owned a kayfun, ithika, or terminator type device. I'm far more used to devices that get air flow from the top cap and not from the holes in the 510.
Also, what ohm's are is everyone running with much mods? I'm way more used to sub-ohm genesis atomizers and RBA drippers. The one I built tonight is set to 1.5ohms but doesn't seem to give me the amount of vapor I'm looking for.
I'm new to these kinds of devices. I've never owned a kayfun, ithika, or terminator type device. I'm far more used to devices that get air flow from the top cap and not from the holes in the 510.
If it leaks out the center of the 510 connection, it's because juice is pooling in the ceramic cup. The culprit is the oring around the mouthpiece between the two pieces of the top cap. Lube it with juice, or even better, get 9 x 2 mm orings that fit tighter and seal better when everything is screwed together snugly. Another possibility is the metal ring not tightened down against the base. This issue was common in the v1 when folks would trap the NR wire under the ring. But it can sometimes come loose when turning the mouthpiece to open and close your juice flow. I have my v2 open 3 full turns and have left it on its side and upright all night without any leaking.
Thanks for the quick response. I'll have to try tightening everything down again. Such a pain to take the juice out and rip it all apart to adjust it again, but oh well. If that doesn't work I guess I'll look for some bigger o-rings. Are people commonly using the bigger o-ring to fix the issue?
Also, the video I watched on how to set it up... the guy recommended having the center rod inside of the 510 threading stick out a bit for better air flow. That's the way I set it up. Do you think that could be causing the leaking at all? It doesn't leak a bunch, but there's always juice on the 510 when I unscrew it... even only after 5mins of use and the mouth pieces open only half to 1 turn.
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I had the same issues at first. You can get the stock oring to work, but the seal would break at some point through the 7 ml tank. The larger oring has solved me having to worry about it. I don't think your leaking has anything to do with how much you leave the center pin sticking out. Screw down the metal locking ring and the 2 pieces around the oring really tight and see if that fixes your leaking. But be gentle with that plastic tank, no need to overdo it as the threaded part of the plastic breaks pretty easily.
Gummi, leaking is caused because air is getting in the tank and breaking the vacuum. There are only two places this usually occurs...the oring around the mouthpiece, and the oring around the center pin from not screwing the ceramic assembly far enough in to the base. As long as there is some tension there, the oring should seal. It doesn't have to be completely compressed.
I use 30g kanthal 3/4 or 4/5 to be somewhere between 1-1.3ohm. 3mm silica doubled at the coil (one strand in the channels, the top strand cut even with the ceramic housing...the part the mouthpiece screws over) or double 2mm ekowool cut and placed the same way.
I use 30g kanthal 3/4 or 4/5 to be somewhere between 1-1.3ohm. 3mm silica doubled at the coil (one strand in the channels, the top strand cut even with the ceramic housing...the part the mouthpiece screws over) or double 2mm ekowool cut and placed the same way.
I should add...I usually only have 1mm or so to flush on my center pin, then tighten the locking ring as tight as I can.
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