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Ok, some of the other Terminator users and I have been experimenting a bit with ways of terminating the the negative connection since trapping it under the ring seems to leave enough of a gap to let lots of juice in. How did you terminate the negative leg when you used the V1 housing?
Its been a long time. the V2s came out shortly after I got them. If memory serves I just hooked it back thru like you say. 1 pc of silver wire shouldn't let much juice in. Thats strange. I've never had an excessive juice issue, nor leaking. If you get some gurgling just tip it upside down for 1 pull and it feeds right back to the wick.
I always leave my juice control open at least half way 24/7
Yes. I saw ur post and I forgot to reply. DWs post that is. I vape dark tobaccos only and I go about 4-5 days. Then I remove the tank but leave the RBA in the base. Rinse under the tap Not totally submerge, but not very carefull either. Then pat dry and dry burn the hell out of it. I can easily get 2-3 weeks out of a setup
I've been using 30g .999 silver wire that I got from Stormy's when I ordered the Terminator. It seemed fine the first time I built the coil, but every time after that I was able to vape the entire tank without even opening the juice flow at all. (I so far haven't had any leaking aside from one time early on when I opened up the tank with the juice control open and it flooded big time and leaked a bit.) I then used what I'm going to call the Navy Lifeguard method for terminating the negative (coil the negative NR wire around the wick so it makes connection with the base when you screw the housing in), and I haven't had flooding issues when filling, and I now need to open up my juice control after just a few drags. It's not as elegant or easy as just catching it under the locking ring, but it seems to work out much better in the end, and others were saying that was an issue with the V1 Ody as well, and Imeo suggested making a "washer" out of your NR by wrapping it all the way around the housing under the locking ring.
That seems a bit excessive to me but it will get the job done for sure.
I also always only get maybe 5-8 drags w the juice closed. So I always left it open
So is that was causes that? It's been driving me nuts that I never have to open the juice control, and my batteries have been getting a bit slippery. It hadn't occurred to me that it might be the ground wire.
Yeah, I haven't been doing that. I've been doing what's described over here and shown in the video linked in this post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ne-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-15.html#post8211273
occasionally, almost just as easy to make another once you're that far into it.
If by chance I'm changing flavors and it's a fairly fresh coil then I may do a dry burn.
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Open juice control or not, gap from the neg wire or not, there should never be any juice leaking anywhere. There is something very wrong if this is happening. Im crashing. I will get back to you guys tomorrow.
Your not far into it at all until you remove the RBA from the base. Im talking about removing just the top cap and tank body. The RBA stays fully in tact. The most work rebuilding the coil.
Is this Ithaka ceramic and it's housing going to fit into a Terminator?
Can the Ithaka have a 510 connection? Man I want one of those bad
Looks like it maybe has a 510
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It can have either a 510 or GGTS connection. Imeo made a 510 base for it, with air control.
So when I followed the provided link I saw that ceramic for Ithika with two channels on each side so I went to the GG threads to invetigate and saw that Ithaka was not spelled the same and the video showed it having one channel. Did COV just spell it wrong? And what about the dual channels?
Also I wanting to know if the air tube/ positive post, it's little knurled nut and the nut inside the ceramic are stainless steel on the genuine Oddy.
I know the nut for the positive wire on the Term is brass and suspect the rest of the above parts are brass as well. My bigest concern it the ability to break the air stem tightening it on to the ceramic
I know the nut for the positive wire on the Term is brass and suspect the rest of the above parts are brass as well. My bigest concern it the ability to break the air stem tightening it on to the ceramic
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