- Status
@Gummy Bare, this reminded me of one small modification I do from reading somewhere in these hundreds of pages. I add a small plastic washer on the bottom pin just above the bottom-most oring and lube the oring before screwing into the base.
As our friends across the pond would say, the Kayfun conversion kit is "cracking good"... 
It was damn easy to setup, and vapes like a steam-bellowing dragon... 
I removed the air-adjustment screw.. The head screwed into the Oddy / GGTS base with no need to adjust the pin at all, and the air-control on the MKB-TS works great. Best of all, NO LEAKS!! I haven't tried lying it on it's side yet, but if it were to leak, I suspect the cause will be the supplied top-cap O-ring. It does not hug the mouthpiece much at all. The way the head unit has the O-ring to seal against the base, the only way juice would leak through the bottom would be through the head's top air hole.
Very brilliant design here.. I tip my hat to Vochu...
It was damn easy to setup, and vapes like a steam-bellowing dragon... I removed the air-adjustment screw.. The head screwed into the Oddy / GGTS base with no need to adjust the pin at all, and the air-control on the MKB-TS works great.
Best of all, NO LEAKS!! I haven't tried lying it on it's side yet, but if it were to leak, I suspect the cause will be the supplied top-cap O-ring. It does not hug the mouthpiece much at all. The way the head unit has the O-ring to seal against the base, the only way juice would leak through the bottom would be through the head's top air hole.Very brilliant design here.. I tip my hat to Vochu...
Tobeco
I hope that my Hercules is made by Rainbow
that looks like a UFS copy, not an ithaka copy. hmm...
i just ordered a hercules from stormys (the rainbow edition), should be here early next week...hoping its the same quality as the terms.
Tobeco
I hope that my Hercules is made by Rainbow
This looks more like a UFS system than an Ithaka......Looks terrible.
There is one more area that I believe allows leakage. I've attempted to describe this before, and I didn't quite say things right, thankfully DW corrected me:
The wick must be a sufficient ammount, and properly seated, along the top channels of the ceramic to create a seal when saturated. When you vape the seal opens to advance more juice when you suck on the MP.
I'm harping on this because I spent a lot of time troubleshooting my top o-rings, only to discover it was a subtle problem with my wick arrangements. It was much less obvious to me than the o-ring problem because it was intermittent and changed when the juice viscosity changed (warming & cooling).
I've had the Terminator for over a year and I'm still trying out new builds. Over time you'll get a feel for the physics of these beasts. They are a little particular.
Seems that my wicks seal better if I make sure they are seated all the way down into the top ceramic channels. I pull down a little harder on those NR legs than I used to & it helps.
The wick must be a sufficient ammount, and properly seated, along the top channels of the ceramic to create a seal when saturated. When you vape the seal opens to advance more juice when you suck on the MP.
I'm harping on this because I spent a lot of time troubleshooting my top o-rings, only to discover it was a subtle problem with my wick arrangements. It was much less obvious to me than the o-ring problem because it was intermittent and changed when the juice viscosity changed (warming & cooling).
I've had the Terminator for over a year and I'm still trying out new builds. Over time you'll get a feel for the physics of these beasts. They are a little particular.
Seems that my wicks seal better if I make sure they are seated all the way down into the top ceramic channels. I pull down a little harder on those NR legs than I used to & it helps.
Yes, it's a UFS clone, just because upsetter21 mentioned it a few posts back. Hercules is on the way, as I said earlier, I hope it's a Raimbow because it's coming from the same place where they sell the UFS clone(Vapor Freak)
This looks more like a UFS system than an Ithaka......Looks terrible.
Yeah, that's the Tobeco UFS clone.. I think it will mount to the MKB-TS / GGTS natively from what I read somewhere. I thought about getting one to use as a carto tank for my Diver.. (now sold) But I was afraid, VERY afraid of the quality...
I'm waiting in the bushes to snag the Rainbow Ithaka clone when Bucky gets them in stock.. (They're on the way to him now) They will be $59.86 shipped..
I have experience rebuilding evods, simple drippers and the smoktech terminator (killer clone). I almost pulled the trigger on a Term-C V2 (with plans to also get the kayfun conversion kit) but then i saw the Ithaka at Stormy's. I don't know much about the Ithaka but it seems like the easier buy since i won't have to wait on the kayfun conversion kit for the Term-C. Any advice for a first time buyer of these clones?
I totally disassembled my MKB at work this morning to clean everything and forgot to put the connector between the top tube and collector.
With Ithaka's extra long positive post it made the distance just fine, that is if you don't mind drawing your air right across the positive post of the 18650 battery.
I have since added the connector back in the mix.
With Ithaka's extra long positive post it made the distance just fine, that is if you don't mind drawing your air right across the positive post of the 18650 battery.
I have since added the connector back in the mix.
You can put the conversion kit into Ithaka also.
Ithaka's a little easier to build than Oddy but not much, Kayfun is a breeze to service.
My best description of an Ithaka clone would be Terminator v3
Last edited:
Thanks Mich!! I might try and get some o-rings on the way home today just to be on the safe size in case it starts leaking again... I hate leaking juice no matter how little it is. You mentioned the 9 x 2 mm size o-rings. I'm not quite sure what that means... is the ID 2mm and the OD 9mm? Also, the cross section would come into play since if it's too thick it wouldn't fit. I'm not an o-ring expert or anything, but I have ordered quite a lot of small ones online to fix atomizer & hybrid leaks; they all seem to follow the "ID x OD x CS" or "Inner Diameter x Outer Diameter x Cross Section (or thickness)" may of measurements and that's what Im used to for finding them.
Can the ones youre talking about be found at home depot hopefully?
When I set it up I believe I made sure the ceramic cup slot areas where filled up as much as possible with wick. I used 2 strands of 2mm ekowool; one strand was long and went down the side channels, and the other was short and clipped at the top on each side of the cup. So the area with the coil had 4mm of silica on it and seemed to be making a pretty good seal. Does that sound right?
I'm gonna have to tighten everything down a bunch more and see if that fixes the issue.. i just don't wanna break anything.
I totally disassembled my MKB at work this morning to clean everything and forgot to put the connector between the top tube and collector.
With Ithaka's extra long positive post it made the distance just fine, that is if you don't mind drawing your air right across the positive post of the 18650 battery.
I have since added the connector back in the mix.
that MKB looks a lot different than the one I used to have.
Sounds like you are on track Gummy. Sounds like you have enough wick. It's probably the top O-ring then. For me, I didn't really get all the ins-and-outs of the "pressure differential" until I started playing with the whole rig using water. Instead of taking the time to coil up, and fill with valuable juice, only to encounter leakage - just try out wick and water until you have something that holds.
Another tip, is the vaseline on the upper o-ring. I don't really like it around my juice, but I found it a valuable troubleshooting technique. When playing with water, I found some O-rings looked OK but only would seal when I packed a ton of vaseline in the top cap. Those O-rings are in the trash now. For me it was just a way to tell if I needed a better seal up top before I had obtained better O-rings. Eventually I used the O-rings DW recommends and they have worked out a lot better than the ones that came with my Terminators. I believe it is good to lube that O-ring with juice or something so it doesn't distort when you torque down on it.
PS, The Oddy Kayfun conversion is WAY LESS sensitive about the top O-ring seal. I just put myself on the list for a third unit.
Another tip, is the vaseline on the upper o-ring. I don't really like it around my juice, but I found it a valuable troubleshooting technique. When playing with water, I found some O-rings looked OK but only would seal when I packed a ton of vaseline in the top cap. Those O-rings are in the trash now. For me it was just a way to tell if I needed a better seal up top before I had obtained better O-rings. Eventually I used the O-rings DW recommends and they have worked out a lot better than the ones that came with my Terminators. I believe it is good to lube that O-ring with juice or something so it doesn't distort when you torque down on it.
PS, The Oddy Kayfun conversion is WAY LESS sensitive about the top O-ring seal. I just put myself on the list for a third unit.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
