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Let me address the pricing of Rainbow products, they try to control the selling price but if you look at what DV and MOV was selling their Term-C's for you can get a pretty good idea of what a supplier pays for them. You don't think they were selling for less than cost surely.
What I'm getting at here is the cost to supplier is probably about the same between the two brands of clones, only the selling price is different. Just my opinion though.
It is stainless steel with the exception of the positive pin, I'm not sure but I think it's plated brass like the GG Oddys
Do you have a picture of the 27mm kir fanis on an ithaka or herc?
This one is the 30 mm window
All GG parts except for the window and mouthpiece, I still haven't even coiled this one yet.
Note that the O.D. of the window is slightly greater than the base and top cap
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with that 30mm, are you able to use the stock ithaka mouthpiece or is it too short?
The mouthpiece is from SilicaWicks.com tank set. The dimensions of the mouthpiece , stop, length, ect. are about the same as Ithaha's. Both tank sizes are OK but Ithaka's tank is 27 mm.
Just got my Term-C and got it up and running after a fair amount of hassle.
The problem I'm having is that once I get my coils wrapped and installed the resistance jumps by about 0.5 ohms. To make the damn thing produce any vapor I had to do a 2/1 wrap of 28g Kanthal. The Kanthal ohmed out at 0.5, but the atty reads at 1.0!
Where is this resistance coming from? Are my NR/R joints no good?
Resistance seems stable, and I'm getting a decent vape, but truth be told I'm disappointed in the performance. What am I missing?
Flavor is insane though...
The problem I'm having is that once I get my coils wrapped and installed the resistance jumps by about 0.5 ohms. To make the damn thing produce any vapor I had to do a 2/1 wrap of 28g Kanthal. The Kanthal ohmed out at 0.5, but the atty reads at 1.0!
Where is this resistance coming from? Are my NR/R joints no good?
Resistance seems stable, and I'm getting a decent vape, but truth be told I'm disappointed in the performance. What am I missing?
Flavor is insane though...
Sounds like you either have an issue with the joins like you mentioned or terminating the connections at the atty itself, it should be reading the same on the atty as it did off.
One thing to be careful of it making sure nothing is loose or mobile before you reassemble the atty, something as simple as screwing and unscrewing the air control can play havoc with a loose coil.
One thing to be careful of it making sure nothing is loose or mobile before you reassemble the atty, something as simple as screwing and unscrewing the air control can play havoc with a loose coil.
And, the locknut under the airvalve loves to twist loose with the valve-stem!
I have yet to get a week from a coil/wick combo, because that moving around will inevitably bust my NR - primarily positive.
Make sure your joins/twists exist only inside the ceramic, and if possible under the wick so they won't peek up and poke the valve.
I have yet to get a week from a coil/wick combo, because that moving around will inevitably bust my NR - primarily positive.
Make sure your joins/twists exist only inside the ceramic, and if possible under the wick so they won't peek up and poke the valve.
Is there any other ways to wrap the positive NR wire for the Hercules? The wire snapped a few times when I was adjusting the ceramic housing and base feeder. Furthermore, wrapping a few times on center post and tighten with O-ring is not very secure.
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Is your positive post possible loose in the ceramic housing?
Another problem occurs when the positive post isn't very straight in the housing and because that bottom o-ring is so soft that it distorts easily.
I've been using an Ithaka or clone of it since they became available and see no problems with the design. I do always lube the bottom o-ring with e-liquid before screwing it into the base.
I do believe I've quoted the wrong post
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This is the issue I'm having, no matter what I try, the post is always crooked. Anybody have any suggestions.
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I too was having this issue along with when I tightened the rebuildable part into the base my positive wire would break. I made a new plastic washer out of a milk jug that fit better. I also placed a small flat washer under the o-ring to prevent the o-ring from ripping the positive wire apart as it was tightened.
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