I feel the intermolecular friction of the liquid also has a bit to do with it. As you take a draw, you vaporize the juice around the coil creating a less saturated area of wick. The wick will always be trying to reach a equilibrium of saturation. When the juice control opens, this allows the wick to re saturate from the cohesion of the fluid traveling through the wick to the dryer coiled area, like water soaked up into a sponge. The amount you open the juice control adjusts the amount of less saturated wick that will be open to the tank, thus if you open it more, the wick will be able to saturate faster allowing you to vape at a increased rate.
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This I cut from the Kayfun manual, it applies to Oddy/Ithaka and their clone as well.
Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with
your finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon
as you release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges.
Kayfun works on the same principle.
When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber
which draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (1i) into the evaporation chamber where it gets
absorbed by the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the
transfer of e-liquid to the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the
pressure in both the evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the
tank through the ducts.
During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (1i)
and after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually
observed as air bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).
E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is
saturated and distributes e-liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and "atomizes" liquid. At the next inhalation
this cycle is repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.
Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with
your finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon
as you release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges.
Kayfun works on the same principle.
When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber
which draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (1i) into the evaporation chamber where it gets
absorbed by the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the
transfer of e-liquid to the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the
pressure in both the evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the
tank through the ducts.
During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (1i)
and after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually
observed as air bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).
E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is
saturated and distributes e-liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and "atomizes" liquid. At the next inhalation
this cycle is repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.
Which washer were you guys talking about leaving out? I hate how far out the post sticks out and would love to eliminate part of that gap by removing a washer.
I may be incorrect on this but I think they where talking about leaving the rubber oring that is installed under the nut inside the ceramic piece, I think it helps more so with keeping the positive post centered when tightened up. You could however add the second oring that you take out from the ceramic and use it as a second oring on the bottom of the positive post which will shorten it up alot. I can't see any other way it will work aside from grinding the end down and trimming the slot back in with a dremel. This ceramic oring is used in the v2 term/nautilus but not sure about v1.
Screw the Terminator base without the ceramic housing assembly all the way onto the mod first. Then screw in the ceramic housing assembly into the base until contact is made with then positive posts of the twp pieces and lock down the ring, remove from mod and continue to assemble.
Yeah dwcraig1 is right there, mine was assemble tight enough to just make contact and it's sticking out like a 1/16. I don't think it needs to be sealed right tight, always did this with my ody and the term and never a leak from just being slightly snug.
DW, I bet that vapes a beast cloud. Nice job!
Floatingtrem: gotta bump you for mentioning the airbrush. I can't believe I haven't heard this analogy more frequently. I've a couple airbrushes, and I've always thought about the needle valve, and how cool it would be if there was a drip-tip or atty that utilized this to tune the vape intensity. I think it'll be someday. Imagine a dual-action button, as seen on more advanced airbrushes... firing the vape, then pulling back to open draw.
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On another subject: Kir Fanis clear Oddy Window + Bubbas Bounty = crack! I don't know, so I'll ask here if anyone has had Bubbas crack a Kir Fanis window... trying to figure out if I made the over-tight mistake or not... On my 2nd week with Bubba, and it has not affected my Rampage windows, but Kir Fanis didn't hold up overnight. I was really surprised - up to now I thought Kir Fanis was the nicer tank.
Floatingtrem: gotta bump you for mentioning the airbrush. I can't believe I haven't heard this analogy more frequently. I've a couple airbrushes, and I've always thought about the needle valve, and how cool it would be if there was a drip-tip or atty that utilized this to tune the vape intensity. I think it'll be someday. Imagine a dual-action button, as seen on more advanced airbrushes... firing the vape, then pulling back to open draw.
=====
On another subject: Kir Fanis clear Oddy Window + Bubbas Bounty = crack! I don't know, so I'll ask here if anyone has had Bubbas crack a Kir Fanis window... trying to figure out if I made the over-tight mistake or not... On my 2nd week with Bubba, and it has not affected my Rampage windows, but Kir Fanis didn't hold up overnight. I was really surprised - up to now I thought Kir Fanis was the nicer tank.
Hey guys, just got a terminator-c. I need some help but this thread is so huge it's hard to find info about it. Right now I'm having a horrible problem with just crappy taste. Idk what to do, I've tried building about 4 coils, all different, and still nothing
Have you washed every part thoroughly in hot soapy water? Take a qtip to the inside of the mouthpiece. Flame burn the ceramic. If it's something else, in order to help we'll need a little more info: wick, wire, device, something bit more descriptive than "crappy taste."
Have you washed every part thoroughly in hot soapy water? Take a qtip to the inside of the mouthpiece. Flame burn the ceramic. If it's something else, in order to help we'll need a little more info: wick, wire, device, something bit more descriptive than "crappy taste."
When I mean crappy taste, it tastes like the smell of poop lol. I just took my time to make another coil, torched silica and wire. I'm using 30 gauge kanthal and 32 gauge nickel. 2.5mm silica, with an extra piece on the coil. ima clean the tip and ceramic first and get back on here
I cleaned everything like nuts, torched the ceramic. And it fixed it, kinda. It tastes like the soap I used. Soapy banana.... I'm sure you guys have experienced that, does it come out? Or do I have to drain it again and clean the soap out better
I do both. I've used vinegar. I've never used soap. Hard to get the residue out.
I learned after my first terminator to clean them well before using. The first time it tasted awful.
Boiling should get rid of the soap.
I boiled mine in water with a touch of detergent to clean them, and after a quick rinse, had no issues.
I boiled mine in water with a touch of detergent to clean them, and after a quick rinse, had no issues.
When you guys boil, are you saying stove top or microwaved water? All my pots have this easily scratched non stick surface on them, metal messes it up
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