Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[GoodInk]

It just seems really odd that it's only on the nut, well very little on the o-ring, but everything around it isn't doing it. It's likes it's baked on there, it will come off with some hard scrubbing. Does anyone know for sure that nut is SS? The only thing I can think of is it's making a very weak electromagnet with the wire wrapped around the post and creating a powder coating effect or it's not SS and some part of the juice it baking on to it, hopefully its not staining galvanic corrosion. The color is not the same as the juice, it more red than brown like the juice.

 

[dwcraig1]

It just seems really odd that it's only on the nut, well very little on the o-ring, but everything around it isn't doing it. It's likes it's baked on there, it will come off with some hard scrubbing. Does anyone know for sure that nut is SS? The only thing I can think of is it's making a very weak electromagnet with the wire wrapped around the post and creating a powder coating effect or it's not SS and some part of the juice it baking on to it, hopefully its not staining galvanic corrosion. The color is not the same as the juice, it more red than brown like the juice.

It's nickel plated brass, you can figure it from here
Acid or alkali in the juice I suppose (mild)
Believe it or not the nut on the Tobeco clone is SS, I'm not sure on Oddy but I think it's brass also, Oddy's post is brass.

 

[GoodInk]

Thanks, I just posted this in the SVC section.

 

[JeremyR]

Possibly Shorting some how. Heating it up , sure looks that way.

 

[GoodInk]

Possibly Shorting some how. Heating it up , sure looks that way.

It does look like it's heat realated it me too, but no shorts that I can tell, I use it on a Provari, ohms are rock solid, plus I'm pretty sure I would be getting errors. I'm about 99% sure it's something with the juice and for what ever reason that nut, as I haven't seen it with other juices. I might have to try this juice in my other one to see if it does it in that one too. On a plus side now I have a reason to break down both my Term's and compair the different center posts I have.

 

[dwcraig1]

The center posts on the Oddy, Term, Hercules and the Tobeco Ithaka clone are also nickel plated brass, only Ithaka and the Tobeco Oddy clone have a Stainless steel positive post. Just saying

 

[Innocuous]

<rubbing hands with evil glee..> Mwahahahaha! Time to Rule THe World!

THe Vochu/Naughtyfun has landed.. At last!

 

[GoodInk]

The center posts on the Oddy, Term, Hercules and the Tobeco Ithaka clone are also nickel plated brass, only Ithaka and the Tobeco Oddy clone have a Stainless steel positive post. Just saying

So are you thinking stained galvanic corrosion?

<rubbing hands with evil glee..> Mwahahahaha! Time to Rule THe World!

THe Vochu/Naughtyfun has landed.. At last!

Ah what? lol

 

[Innocuous]

Polish-made substitute core for ody/ithaka: gives you a kayfun with the old juice-flow control, and adds airflow control ;-)

And, yes: I am still awaiting my 91%.. I shoulda' started a betting-pool. *sigh*

 

[GoodInk]

Pics please

 

[dwcraig1]

Polish-made substitute core for ody/ithaka: gives you a kayfun with the old juice-flow control, and adds airflow control ;-)

And, yes: I am still awaiting my 91%.. I shoulda' started a betting-pool. *sigh*

And perhaps even more it gives the ability to have a GGTS connection on a Kayfun

 

[GoodInk]

Here are the pics of the differences between the two Term V2's I have and a couple of the what I think just might be baked on spent juice on that nut. Pics of the two type will have the new one on the left the old one on the right.

The side with the o-ring

The side facing the cup

Different knurling on the nuts, also the ring that holds the neg wire is the same way.

In these pics you can see that the old one is flat on both sides, the new one is counter sunk on one side. I believe this helps hole the o-ring in place and better centers the positive post.

The other sides, both are flat. This is better for trapping the wire.

The airflow hole is smaller on the new one, this makes for a very slight tighter draw but seems to make more vapor for some reason.

The threading for the nut that traps the wire has more threading making it easier to use.

In case you are wondering the ceramic cups are the same, in fact they look like they could have come from the same mold.

After looking at the pics I think the coloring is from spent juice working its way down from the cup a baking on to the nut. If you look at the pic that shows the threading of the center post, the left one, you can see some of the coloring on the threads that go in to the cup. I guess maybe I should break it down a clean it more often.

 

[dwcraig1]

This is an Oddy v2 with 26 gauge nichrome micro with cotton and no non resister wire done by member "Mozzer"
I also gave this a try and it really works good and is pretty easy to do.
Here's a link to his post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ncrease-vapor-flavor-th-704.html#post10959720

 

[dice57]

This is exactly what I was looking for, able to use resistant wire for the whole build. Main reason I am hesitant to try this rba is the use of non resistant wire.

 

[dwcraig1]

This is exactly what I was looking for, able to use resistant wire for the whole build. Main reason I am hesitant to try this rba is the use of non resistant wire.

Just keep in mind that the heavy gauge wire is necessary, 26 gauge nichrome is around 0.22 ohms per inch so the loss due to the leg length isn't that great.

 

[JeremyR]

Yeah no go with 32

 

[chadsmo]

This is exactly what I was looking for, able to use resistant wire for the whole build. Main reason I am hesitant to try this rba is the use of non resistant wire.

Five of my attys use NR wire, you get used to it.

 

[Innocuous]

Twisting NR on is not really difficult, and you can always build or buy a zapper.

I do agree it's nice to have at least one other atty that doesn't require NR, for those days that the gods hate you and NR twisting.

This is exactly what I was looking for, able to use resistant wire for the whole build. Main reason I am hesitant to try this rba is the use of non resistant wire.

 

[villarino1k]

so ive been out of this thread for awhile because i gave up on the term c! Quick question, do you guys use the o ring inside the ceramic? I swear, the term c has wasted me a lot of juice. I got it working good for a while, then out of nowhere, i started getting non stop leaks. I just dont get it. As ive read many times before, make sure the center pin is tight, so i use some needle nose pliers to tighten them, made sure to buy 9x2 orings for the top, slowly tighten it very tight. Also made sure before refilling that the mouthpiece was closed, made sure when refilling to do it slowly. I dont trap the NR wire with the knurled ring and base, i just keep it behind the silica wick touching the metal. I feel like ive tried everything and nothing seem to get me back to its full potential.

Any other ideas?

 

[dwcraig1]

I only have one v2 and it is from GG, I believe that I removed the o-ring that sits under the nut in the ceramic but am not sure. What I am sure about though is having or not having it there is not causing leaking problems. Besides the mouthpiece o-ring the next o-ring below it would be another spot that could let air enter the tank as that is surely what's happening.