I have my own way of doing things so I can't really suggest any one surefire way to stop the leaking.( I use just VG on all the o-rings. Has served me well so far.) First thing you have to figure out is if it's leaking from the lower o-ring or if it's from the *center* of the positive pin of the 510 connector. Kinda tricky; you have to hold it over your head and look up without it dripping on your face. dwcraig1 uses vaseline to seal his o-rings. I'd suggest trying that with one o-ring at a time (from the bottom up) and see where the leaking stops. If it does not, then most likely it is leaking where Craig previously stated (mouthpiece/o-ring @ the ceramic).
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As i keep saying, forget about the lower o-ring leaking, it just isn't going to happen. I decided to not use anything but space in the spot where the bottom o-ring is installed, When I removed it and the spacer(which keeps the o-ring from unscrewing the positive nut on disassemby) I made sure to maintain a gap there. I then reassembled the rest of the tank ect. and filled.
1st photo is after it sat there for 10 min.
2nd photo shows that the post is way inboard.
1st photo is after it sat there for 10 min.
2nd photo shows that the post is way inboard.
On to the next two photos
1st photo, I decided after checking with an ohm meter to go ahead and vape it awhile without the bottom o-ring and added spacer, about 30 good hits and sat for while again.
2nd photo, bottom o-ring still out, top tank seal broken by removing upper most o-ring. sat for 2 min.
If it leaks, it is leaking air into the tank at the top and almost always it is the 9 mm x 2 mm o-ring in the top section of the tank top.
Since using a spacer above the bottom o-ring I no longer use Vasline on any of the o-rings, just whatever juice that I happen to be using. With the spacer added the positive nut rarely loosens when unscrewing the ceramic housing from the base.
I didn't do this to see what would happen, I already knew, I wanted you folks to see it.
And while some of us do things differently the laws of physics does them the same.
1st photo, I decided after checking with an ohm meter to go ahead and vape it awhile without the bottom o-ring and added spacer, about 30 good hits and sat for while again.
2nd photo, bottom o-ring still out, top tank seal broken by removing upper most o-ring. sat for 2 min.
If it leaks, it is leaking air into the tank at the top and almost always it is the 9 mm x 2 mm o-ring in the top section of the tank top.
Since using a spacer above the bottom o-ring I no longer use Vasline on any of the o-rings, just whatever juice that I happen to be using. With the spacer added the positive nut rarely loosens when unscrewing the ceramic housing from the base.
I didn't do this to see what would happen, I already knew, I wanted you folks to see it.
And while some of us do things differently the laws of physics does them the same.
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I think I'm off onto something else now, I got my first Term-c yesterday and that big bubble that forms at the bottom of the mouthpiece that I've read so much about is fascinating, I doubt if it has any effect on operation but I'll be looking at that soon.
Looks like a long mouthpiece from Ramage would slick it up.
Looks like a long mouthpiece from Ramage would slick it up.
So the weirdest thing has been happening, I tried 2 coils with the same results - the term-c long stem shorts out the device when it is in closed position??? But I'm using the stem from the china ody clone and it works perfectly?? can't figure it out..
Hello , I keep reading about this"spacer" and would like to know how it looks like and where you all are getting it. If you could post a photo of the spacer and the spacer placed on the rebuildable part. Its the oddest thing, I was using the term for a couple of weeks with no leaks, after the 3rd week it started happening, but not all the time. I started trimming the silica right at the end of the ceramic housing bottom. Then its stopped. Now it does it occasionally. I would like to try the spacer and see if it fixes it. Thanks to everyone in being so dedicated.
I have shown in post # 522 and 523 that the bottom o-ring(#15) plays no role in the leaking or not leaking with this type atomizer.
Originally I thought it did but the spacer was added to my setup ( between #13 and 15) so that the positive post would not stick out so far out of the 510 connector in the base of the atomizer.
I have since started using a thin metal washer instead of the plastic one and for a different reason, that being when the ceramic housing is unscrewed from the base usually #15 o-ring would stick to the base and stick to nut # 13 and unscrew it also, this rarely happens was spacer installed. Here is requested info:
Originally I thought it did but the spacer was added to my setup ( between #13 and 15) so that the positive post would not stick out so far out of the 510 connector in the base of the atomizer.
I have since started using a thin metal washer instead of the plastic one and for a different reason, that being when the ceramic housing is unscrewed from the base usually #15 o-ring would stick to the base and stick to nut # 13 and unscrew it also, this rarely happens was spacer installed. Here is requested info:
So, within reason we don't have to worry about making sure the pin sticks out that "1mm" that Scott talks about in his tutorial for the function of the atomizer itself but only for airflow etc?
As I appreciate that you took the time to show us that the lower o-ring has nothing to do with leaking when the unit is properly sealed, I do, however, prefer not to get fluid all over my hands when refilling/checking the fluid levels. So dwcraig1, I must disagree that the lower o-ring is very much necessary. 
That position would ensure that it( the rebuild-able part) would make contact on all mods, but you really want it sitting squarely on the mod so you screw it in just far enough where it make good contact but no farther. You can do this easily by mounting the base in the mod then screw in the re- buildable part until you feel it hit the positive on the mod , then remove it and turn in maybe just a hair farther and lock it down and finish assembly.
OK, so just like Imeo originally instructed on the Ody. I always liked that idea, but I never actually tried it, because I was concerned I'd risk not getting proper seating of the o-ring if I did that.
If that engine block that we're screwing on there wobbles too much we will have more troubles
You guys seem to know what's going on so I will shoot this question out here mine visibly drips juice like a lot of them so the idiot me tried to blow it out. After closing the juice control I blew threw the mouth piece and got bubbles in the tank. Now after reading this I realized what I didn't realize last night to get those bubbles the air has to escape somewhere or those bubbles couldn't get in there. Now I got to figure out a good size oring to try to seal the top I know the dimensions of the original I e have to be posted somewhere. I will let you guys know if a bigger mouthpiece oring fixes the issue.
On the juice dripping out issue.
From what I see in dwcraig1 post's above (#528). Oring #8 and #14 create the seal for a negative pressure lock on juice in the tank. However if you dont have your wick material filling the channels of the ceramic, you will not be able to maintain negative pressure. (other than making sure all your other parts are tight)
Is there any more to this?
From what I see in dwcraig1 post's above (#528). Oring #8 and #14 create the seal for a negative pressure lock on juice in the tank. However if you dont have your wick material filling the channels of the ceramic, you will not be able to maintain negative pressure. (other than making sure all your other parts are tight)
Is there any more to this?
I assume that you have a Term or Oddy and not a Tobeco, displacement is what we have here, just like when you pour from a bottle air must replace the liquid as it exits the bottle.
If you are blowing hard enough and there is a place for air to pass it will.
Jazzytech first brought this up, it concerns the mouthpiece being off center in the tank top, he was looking to the bottom o-ring as the source of the leak but it is the top o-ring leaking air into the tank. Due to the fact that the bore and threads in the base are not up to spec, the bore is larger I believe but the ceramic housing could be under sized but I doubt it, anyway the ceramic housing fits sloppy enough that other things like trapping the ground wire under the locking ring will .... the ceramic housing ever so slightly in the base which causes the mouthpiece to be off center.
I don't know how much in agreement Jazzytech is with all this but I have got to give him credit for much of it.
I was going to do the "test" with no wick and coil but was lazy but I would expect it to not leak as well.
Let me add that the taller the tank the more off center it becomes.
I am working on something related with the top o-ring presently, hopefully I'll have something good to say.
The locking ring on my new Term C is extra loose compared to my other ones and I think that it in this perticular case is what's throwing my rebuild-able part off angle, but hoping to be able to do something with the o-ring instead.
I am working on something related with the top o-ring presently, hopefully I'll have something good to say.
The locking ring on my new Term C is extra loose compared to my other ones and I think that it in this perticular case is what's throwing my rebuild-able part off angle, but hoping to be able to do something with the o-ring instead.
The guy who posted on his facebbok page pics of the what he calls Jupiter AKA Tobeco Clone Did this to the center pin!! I figure that allow you to screw the ceramic housing down further!!
And he put a 510 drip tip on the mouth piece ring has anyone tried that??
And he put a 510 drip tip on the mouth piece ring has anyone tried that??
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