Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[b0redagain]

I just got the v2 cup/assembly and stuck it in the v1. No issues, a bit easier to build and a bigger channel for the wick it seems.

Hrmm...maybe I'll wait. I have no issues building coils and don't need the larger channels. I think the v1 vapes perfect. Maybe we will hear from some other people about the overall quality of the v2. If it turns out that the quality is the same as the v1 then I will think about buying one.

For now, I'll just buy another v1 or maybe trade my v1 C for a regular one.

 

[b0redagain]

Now SVC is out of the v1 large...ugh.

 

[JuniorNA]

Everything is screwed on straight. I wasn't sure how you were supposed to use it, thanks for the info. I'm currently using 3mm silica on it. Didn't double the wick on the coil. Maybe that's the problem. Can you do more than 1 turn? It leaks when I have it opened too much. Or is it not supposed to leak at all unless the mouth piece comes off.

Mine doesn't leak at all and if the water is below the line where the MP screws on it won't flood even if I remove the Mp.

You can def do more than one turn depending on your juice type.

Since I have a clear tank I can see that one turn on my device really doesn't open much so maybe it's just a matter of using the clear tank and actually seeing the bubbles when you open the MP. Anyway try more than one turn

When you close the MP completely are you getting dry coils or are you still getting decent taste and vapor ? If you are with the MP closed then you're getting leakage Into the coil from somewhere

 

[JuniorNA]

my biggest issue is wrapping NR>R<NR wire. Im using 31g kanthal which is a great mix - it's got the strength of 30, and close enough ohms to 32. barely get any hotspots when wrapping my gennys. Anyway, the X method and then twist like in scotts video just doesnt work for me. After i'm done, i put a little tension on both and they come apart as if i did nothing at all. it's actually getting me annoyed. i wish had the spark-o-matic. I ordered 20 feet of .999 wire and 1,000 1MM crimping beads so maybe the beads will work. because what i'm doing now is so ugly. The tangled mess of a connection with the NR and R wire is actually causing my wick to stick out in the channels. It seemed so easy when i was youtubing how to do it, then when it was in front of my face, i hated it.

I use 1.25 inches of AWG31 A1 to get 1.0 ohm - but since part of that 1.25 inches gets wrapped in my tangled mess of NR wire, i can make like 2 coils with it. So maybe with the crimping beads i'll get more resistance wire exposure which in turn gives me more surface area on the coils.

Or i could just buy 25 ready wires from COV for 25 bucks - a buck wire (eh, not bad i guess)

 

[Jaseruckus]

With the MT closed, no leaks. When you say 1 turn, is that 1 full rotation? Or just 1 small turn? Just got done rebuilding another coil and still got leaking when I opened up the MT half a full rotation. Am I opening it too much?

As far as the nr-r-nr...I just use this method, better than twisting them. Almost like tying a knot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5W6L7ZsClQ

 

[JuniorNA]

With the MT closed, no leaks. When you say 1 turn, is that 1 full rotation? Or just 1 small turn? Just got done rebuilding another coil and still got leaking when I opened up the MT half a full rotation. Am I opening it too much?

As far as the nr-r-nr...I just use this method, better than twisting them. Almost like tying a knot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5W6L7ZsClQ

I meant one rotation - make sure you double wick where the coils are - I'm using 2 x 2.5 mm wick at the coil and 2.5 down the channels - and the channels are full so juice is going to Saturate and won't just fly up there when you take a drag

Thanks for the link

Edit - not just thanks - HOLY CRAP I love you bro - you made my day

Thanks again

 

[JuniorNA]

Don't know if you can see this but towards the bottom half of my tank I open it 2.5 turns
Here is what it looks like with the ceramic exposed

 

[Vego]

With the MT closed, no leaks. When you say 1 turn, is that 1 full rotation? Or just 1 small turn? Just got done rebuilding another coil and still got leaking when I opened up the MT half a full rotation. Am I opening it too much?

As far as the nr-r-nr...I just use this method, better than twisting them. Almost like tying a knot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5W6L7ZsClQ

Thank you so much for that link. That looks like a solid, sturdy method, and one I will be employing on my next build.

 

[b0redagain]

If you want the video with a lady awkwardly translating, here you go:

 

[XfooYen]

Thank you so much for that link. That looks like a solid, sturdy method, and one I will be employing on my next build.

Just tried that. Not as easy as it looks. Gotta have some seriously dry hands to tug those wires and secure the knot. The wires need to be totally kink free. There are no do-overs in this method. With a little practice I'll get it. Once mastered, this may be the easiest way to join R-NR.

 

[dwcraig1]

My first crack at it was not so good, I'm using 30 guage Kanthal and 32 nickel, the Kanthal is really stiff even after torching it. I will try again tomorrow.

 

[Slartibartfast]

With the MT closed, no leaks. When you say 1 turn, is that 1 full rotation? Or just 1 small turn? Just got done rebuilding another coil and still got leaking when I opened up the MT half a full rotation. Am I opening it too much?

I open mine a full 360 or more and no leaks. If you have no leaks with the juice flow closed off, but then it does leak when it is open I would bet money that you are not getting a proper seal on the top o-ring around the mouth piece. The mouth piece needs to be dead center and that top nut screwed down very tight. It's also a good idea to make sure it's lubed up with vas or e-liquid. I can actually nudge that top nut from side to side with it all the way screwed down and that is how I make sure the mouth piece is centered before I open up the juice flow on a fresh refill. As long as I do this 99% of the time I don't get leaks and if I do I just close the juice flow, gently blow the juice out, untighten and retighten the top nut, nudge the top nut to make the mouth piece center, and I'm good to go.

 

[XfooYen]

My first crack at it was not so good, I'm using 30 guage Kanthal and 32 nickel, the Kanthal is really stiff even after torching it. I will try again tomorrow.

Yeah, I'm thinking it's best for 32AWG and higher. Why isn't anyone selling zapper welders? I bet they would sell like hotcakes.

 

[dwcraig1]

Yeah, I'm thinking it's best for 32AWG and higher. Why isn't anyone selling zapper welders? I bet they would sell like hotcakes.

"they are".......
http://allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/17463/page/1/zapper-res-wire-welder

 

[XfooYen]

"they are".......
Zapper - Res/No-Res wire welder | ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UK

And that forum led me to this page, where you can buy one. You have to contact them first if you're shipping outside the UK. Don't know why, but I did. This would solve many headaches.

 

[Jaseruckus]

I open mine a full 360 or more and no leaks. If you have no leaks with the juice flow closed off, but then it does leak when it is open I would bet money that you are not getting a proper seal on the top o-ring around the mouth piece. The mouth piece needs to be dead center and that top nut screwed down very tight. It's also a good idea to make sure it's lubed up with vas or e-liquid. I can actually nudge that top nut from side to side with it all the way screwed down and that is how I make sure the mouth piece is centered before I open up the juice flow on a fresh refill. As long as I do this 99% of the time I don't get leaks and if I do I just close the juice flow, gently blow the juice out, untighten and retighten the top nut, nudge the top nut to make the mouth piece center, and I'm good to go.

Man, I think this just fixed my problem. Thank you! I was always wondering why it wouldn't tighten all the way at the top cap. I didn't think it would cause any flooding since everything seems straight. Like you mentioned, it caused my MP to be off center. I can now open the MP a good amount and now no leaking. Much better vapor production and no gurgling. I was about to put in 2 2mm wicks in the channel even though I found it strange to have leaking with 3mm be think enough. I'll keep vaping it to see if this problem is completely fixed. :facepalm Been troubleshooting this for the last 6 hours. I can actually just relax now and watch a movie. Thanks again.

 

[Fury83]

And that forum led me to this page, where you can buy one. You have to contact them first if you're shipping outside the UK. Don't know why, but I did. This would solve many headaches.

For $53 before international shipping, I'd just rather twist the wires.

 

[b0redagain]

For $53 before international shipping, I'd just rather twist the wires.

I agree. I find it way too easy to just twist them. If it were cheaper, say under $20, maybe.

 

[dwcraig1]

I open mine a full 360 or more and no leaks. If you have no leaks with the juice flow closed off, but then it does leak when it is open I would bet money that you are not getting a proper seal on the top o-ring around the mouth piece. The mouth piece needs to be dead center and that top nut screwed down very tight. It's also a good idea to make sure it's lubed up with vas or e-liquid. I can actually nudge that top nut from side to side with it all the way screwed down and that is how I make sure the mouth piece is centered before I open up the juice flow on a fresh refill. As long as I do this 99% of the time I don't get leaks and if I do I just close the juice flow, gently blow the juice out, untighten and retighten the top nut, nudge the top nut to make the mouth piece center, and I'm good to go.

You said it well

 

[XfooYen]

For $53 before international shipping, I'd just rather twist the wires.

I've saved my fair share in co-ops and bargain hunting. I think the money would be well spent. You just twist away, my friend.