Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[eggylisk]

I ordered some ekowool from stormy's along with the v2 cup. Has anyone tried the ekowool? I ordered a foot of 1.5, 2 and 3mm. Has anyone tried using ekowool with the v2? I probably wont be able to try building with them until the weekend. I've got a busy week filled with exams, papers and work ahead of me ):

The 1.5 and 2mm look like a good fit on the channels though, but the 2mm looks a tad tight on the metal side of the channel

 

[Fury83]

I ordered some ekowool from stormy's along with the v2 cup. Has anyone tried the ekowool? I ordered a foot of 1.5, 2 and 3mm. Has anyone tried using ekowool with the v2? I probably wont be able to try building with them until the weekend. I've got a busy week filled with exams, papers and work ahead of me ):

The 1.5 and 2mm look like a good fit on the channels though, but the 2mm looks a tad tight on the metal side of the channel

I have big ekowool that I am going to use for something else but I may try to stuff some in one of my ceramic cup atty's.

 

[altron3k]

halo guys. great thread goin here.. you guys definitely saved me some juice with these leak tips (although my terminator still spewed a bunch onto my desk ) im gonna rebuild the negative post as you genius's built it up on the wick- (geeze great idea guys) ... however has anyone else had any weird issues with ohms spiking and the body of the atty gettin hot after some chain vaping... im using an EVIC @ 1.7ohms (jumps to 2.3 somtimes) oh and using cotton wick. the flavor. geeze . but vapor is a lil low.

 

[mofahs]

Hey guys, just got a term-c and I want to drill out the airhole to give it a more open draw, like a draw matching the zatty pro, does anyone have any ideas on how to do this?

 

[XfooYen]

halo guys. great thread goin here.. you guys definitely saved me some juice with these leak tips (although my terminator still spewed a bunch onto my desk ) im gonna rebuild the negative post as you genius's built it up on the wick- (geeze great idea guys) ... however has anyone else had any weird issues with ohms spiking and the body of the atty gettin hot after some chain vaping... im using an EVIC @ 1.7ohms (jumps to 2.3 somtimes) oh and using cotton wick. the flavor. geeze . but vapor is a lil low.

You either have a short somewhere, your negative wire is improperly grounded, or one of your NR-R joints is loose. I would do an inspection of the coil and negative connection, and possibly do a rebuild. More often than not it's a connection problem with the ground wire.

 

[XfooYen]

Hey guys, just got a term-c and I want to drill out the airhole to give it a more open draw, like a draw matching the zatty pro, does anyone have any ideas on how to do this?

Getting the Term to draw like a ZAP isn't going to happen. The draw is determined by the diameter of the positive tube of the rebuildable part. Drilling that out is only recommended with the use of a lathe and still risky. You could open the two small holes in the 510 connector base, but few have seen marked results doing that (myself included). The best choice is to purchase the rebuildable part for the Term V2 (Stormy's sells them) and use it in your V1 body. The V2 rebuildable definitely gives an airier draw, but it's still not going to be like a ZAP.

 

[mofahs]

thanks for the reply xfoo, i actually already have a v2 assembly on its way by happenstance, hopefully its a bit better.

 

[altron3k]

You either have a short somewhere, your negative wire is improperly grounded, or one of your NR-R joints is loose. I would do an inspection of the coil and negative connection, and possibly do a rebuild. More often than not it's a connection problem with the ground wire.

thanks xfooyen! i wicked and coiled the atty with silica wicks (why do ppl suggest 3mm? it dont fit?) and cleaned up the connects... no more hot atty! also for the leaks guys. the oring kit is cheap (shipping takes years cuz im out here) - but i found a free quick solution .

i got a spare oring off old drip tips (its a tad larger in size than the bottom positive post orings) - thus i used that as the oring for the positive post in the middle (that squishes in between the post and the ceramic/ss cup). then i used the original positive post oring INSIDE the ceramic cup UNDER the lockdown screw. then of course the original bottom oring is in place too... i left the juice controll wide open and nothing happened. seems to have solved my juice dumping prob

 

[b0redagain]

Got my v2 in today. Quality is the same as the v1. The 3mm wick from Vaborbase fits these channels a lot better and no flooding from the extra room. The v2 will be easier for most to setup, but I didn't have any issues with the v1. I wouldn't go out and replace all my v1 Terms but I can see how this is an upgrade.

 

[JuniorNA]

Anyone try a dual coil on this yet ? Not dual wicks with one coil each but one wick with 2 r wires wrapped around the coil - not touching . 2 - 1.5 wires in parallel which comes out to .09 ohms ?

 

[dwcraig1]

It's calld "highlander coil", there's another one with dual coils on one wick also.

Oh that would come out to .75 ohms

 

[JuniorNA]

It's calld "highlander coil", there's another one with dual coils on one wick also.

Oh that would come out to .75 ohms

Yeah, just did it on an IGO-L before i took apart my ODY and it worked great. Took 2 2.ohm wires and put them together to make a 1.0 ohm dual coil on a 3M wick. My question is why are so many people doing dual wicks and a coil on each wick if they can do it the "highlander" way? I'm assuming its because 2 coils will have more surface area, 2 wicks gives more vapor - i wonder if the highlander coils will burn hotter and faster which will dry out the wick causing some hot coils and metallic taste? It's fine in the IGO-L but thats only because i'm dripping on it non stop. I will have to try it in the ODY next time i'm running low on juice, which is every 3 hours anyway

 

[dwcraig1]

I think you got the right idea
Needs lots of wicking action to chain vape

 

[t8kiteasy]

Anyone try a dual coil on this yet ? Not dual wicks with one coil each but one wick with 2 r wires wrapped around the coil - not touching . 2 - 1.5 wires in parallel which comes out to .09 ohms ?

Yes back to my reply about it post #1598,has a link to the vid.

 

[Tintreach]

Well I'm sold on these about the only tank that gets any use now is the Protank if I don't have the Term-C or Cody on something. All my Genny style RBA's are collecting dust.

Oddly enough I can a Cody working perfect now and have figured out a few things to improve it from a mechanical side which I'm going to do once I run this last tank out.

The Term-C is still somewhat problematic due to the mouthpiece cap and o-ring. Since the o-ring is not the right size and there is too much gap on the cap. Driving down the road I can hit a bump just enough to break the seal around the stem and then it will flood like no ones business.

That problem is either going to be fixed when I source the proper size o-ring or I just decide to make a mold and make one with food grade silicone.

 

[dwcraig1]

Is the pattern on the mouthpiece where it screws onto the ceramic housing the same or different than your Cody?
Your problem doesn't sound normal for a Rainbow Terminator-C(Stormy's)
Mouthpiece o-ring size on Stormy's Terminator-C is 9 x 2 mm

With the tanktop, mouthpiece collar and mouthpiece assembled (without anything else) you should be able to tell just how well the o-ring is gripping the mouthpiece stem

There have been some cases where the ceramic housing was so undersized that it could almost be pushed into the base without screwing, in those cases mouthpiece would never stay centered.

 

[Tintreach]

No all 3 of mine are different from each other.

Below you may be able to see the difference between my Cody #1 (on left) and my Term-C (right)



This picture will show the gap on the Term-C (top) vs the Cody (bottom)



This shows the mouthpiece on the Term-C to be 9mm



And the Cody at 7.75(ish)

 

[Tintreach]

Here for posterity reasons a pic of the Cody #2 I just got. Knurling, and part thickness is different

 

[rjs987]

I am having trouble with my terminator and vamo. My friend has a provari and the terminator works fine on the provari. However, it does not work on my vamo. It either says ohms are to low or it does not read it at all. The ohms on the terminator (according the provari) is 2.2. but it says Lo Ohms on the vamo. If anyone has any advise i would appreciate it. Thanks

 

[b0redagain]

I am having trouble with my terminator and vamo. My friend has a provari and the terminator works fine on the provari. However, it does not work on my vamo. It either says ohms are to low or it does not read it at all. The ohms on the terminator (according the provari) is 2.2. but it says Lo Ohms on the vamo. If anyone has any advise i would appreciate it. Thanks

It's most likely an issue with the center post of the Vamo as it is prone to breaking, being pushed down into the housing, causing shorts, and otherwise just sucking. I've owned six Vamos, all had the same issue. You gotta treat that center post like it's made of glass and just screw down your atty enough to make contact...any further and you will have issues. I'm down to two Vamos now and will be happy when they are all gone.