Para have you had any leaking after doing that? And I wonder if you have to go back to stock wick will it leak
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Not leaking at all now. My leaks are strange creatures. I got up this morning and filled the tank. A few minutes later it was leaking from the bottom connector. I cleaned it up and started using it and it hasn't leaked since. I did nothing but remove the lid and put some ejuice in the tank....yet it started leaking and then stopped on it's own.
What I plan to do once Bruce gets extra plastic parts for the Iatty is mod several; one for each type of wicking I use. Then I have a dedicated setup for each.
Odd. Good idea on the plastic pieces I am hoping that I can get my hands on an extra tube and cone as I have some ideas also.
Thank pare I will try that. I had a few wicks break right in two trying to get them in.
Just got the new wicks and wires that have been recommended and they are so good so far. Thanks everyone.
Ohhh I need to stop buying. Dont show me new items, this past weekend was cruel for my wallet. I need help to stop this compulsive conduct. Seriously!!!
LOL
I used 2 pieces of 1/16 wick in the coil area only. One regular length and one just for the coil.
This worked very well for 3 days when the wick gave out. Which is 2 days better than a single 1/16 wick.
Edit: This didn't work very well. The wick was to thick for air to get past. Back to standard wick.
When I make another I am going to try a ceramic 116 doubled for the coil only wick, with a drop-on regular length 1/16 wick for replacement.
This worked very well for 3 days when the wick gave out. Which is 2 days better than a single 1/16 wick.
Edit: This didn't work very well. The wick was to thick for air to get past. Back to standard wick.
When I make another I am going to try a ceramic 116 doubled for the coil only wick, with a drop-on regular length 1/16 wick for replacement.
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I just tried burning the sizing from some ceramic wick. Heated up each piece well, they were glowing red for several minutes each and this is the second time I've tried with these wicks.
Check out the photos. The wick on the left is new wick, the three to the right have all been burned. Checkout how they are still silverish in color.
How hot do I need to get these suckers? I used a propane torch, the kind that uses a blue 14 oz bottle. Not sure how hot it gets but it's hot enough to make them glow red.
I'm headed to Home Depot for another project. I know they have MAP tanks that burn hotter. I'll have to see what my options are.
What is everybody using to get them to go from white, to silver, back to white?
Check out the photos. The wick on the left is new wick, the three to the right have all been burned. Checkout how they are still silverish in color.
How hot do I need to get these suckers? I used a propane torch, the kind that uses a blue 14 oz bottle. Not sure how hot it gets but it's hot enough to make them glow red.
I'm headed to Home Depot for another project. I know they have MAP tanks that burn hotter. I'll have to see what my options are.
What is everybody using to get them to go from white, to silver, back to white?
Any butane torch will do the job
The hottest part of the flame is the inner cone...put it on the wicking material. The wicking will glow past red
How long does it take? Wouldn't think butane would get hot enough. I was using propane which I believe burns hotter. Just got a MAPP torch. We'll see how the wicks like that.
You have to use the "Ball" of the flame the very short bright blue portion of the flame right next to the nozzle
The maximum adiabatic flame temperature of butane with air is 2243 K (1970 °C; 3578 °F)
The maximum adiabatic flame temperature a propane torch can achieve with air is 2268 kelvins (1995 °C/3623 °F)
MAPP gas can be used in combination with oxygen for heating, soldering, brazing and even welding due to its high flame temperature of 2927 °C (5300 °F) in oxygen
The maximum adiabatic flame temperature of butane with air is 2243 K (1970 °C; 3578 °F)
The maximum adiabatic flame temperature a propane torch can achieve with air is 2268 kelvins (1995 °C/3623 °F)
MAPP gas can be used in combination with oxygen for heating, soldering, brazing and even welding due to its high flame temperature of 2927 °C (5300 °F) in oxygen
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That doesn't tell me how long it will take. I've used propane for several minutes on the wicks and they continue to mock me. I'll use my MAPP tank and wipe the smile off their pretty little.......er, strands.
Just used the MAPP on four strands of wick for several minutes. One of the strands got whitish from the silver color and I found that it was brittle and when bent it basically broke apart.
The other three strands kinda look white but still have some silver. I also noticed that the ends where they are fraying are really brittle as well.
Not sure if this is where I need to be and not really sure if this is worth the trouble and associated cost.
The other three strands kinda look white but still have some silver. I also noticed that the ends where they are fraying are really brittle as well.
Not sure if this is where I need to be and not really sure if this is worth the trouble and associated cost.
That's normal; it gets brittle when heated....just be careful in handling.
1/16" fiberglass does a really good job and is much easy to work with. The difference between the two is Really Good to Great. I like Great, but there's nothing wrong with Really Good. It's your call what works best for you.
Y'all ceramics are like metals, their hardening properties are based on temperature and time. If you exceed their ideal hardening temp (in this case 1652F) then they will become brittle. The reason I suggested the butane torches is a) they are cheap, and b) they aren't as hot as other torches. I was just heating one tiny flame width area of the wick with a butane pencil torch until it stops glowing red, and changes to a much lighter white glow, then move to the next area. The wick glows red until the sizing burns off. Then when it cools it is snow white in color. Explaining the process is much harder, and I apologize that you guys are having problems. If your torch is too hot, and you hold it too long it's going to be brittle. You don't want to ruin the material, just get it hot enough for the sizing to disappear.
(I've sent a bunch of firebugs off with torches
)
Ok, I've tried several things with the iAtty, with varied results.
Ive had reasonable success with many over the net atties, meaning a week or better before the peter out, or pop. That seams to be my mission with the iAtty.
To date, I have found success with:
Doubling the wick in the coil only Making a bigger surface area for the wick (makes a mellow thick vape).
Shaping the ceramic cup, (makes it easier to build the coil).
Using the longest resistance wire for the ohms I am seeking (covers more surface area).
Since I'm building coils on a daily basis until I discover the "secret" to longevity, I am trying another idea today.
It seems to me the wick in most atties is pretty loose, and easy to remove.
Up until now, Ive been wrapping the coil tightly around the wick. This possibly is removing the space for liquid and air to work with the coil in that confined environment.
Today I am going to wrap the coil looser if possible, in hopes that it will perform for a longer period of time if the wick is not compressed by the wire. Any comments are welcome to my efforts. So a loose coil wrap is the next technique to try.
I tried the ceramic wick but it concerns me, at this time I'm not comfortable using it.
Ive had reasonable success with many over the net atties, meaning a week or better before the peter out, or pop. That seams to be my mission with the iAtty.
To date, I have found success with:
Doubling the wick in the coil only Making a bigger surface area for the wick (makes a mellow thick vape).
Shaping the ceramic cup, (makes it easier to build the coil).
Using the longest resistance wire for the ohms I am seeking (covers more surface area).
Since I'm building coils on a daily basis until I discover the "secret" to longevity, I am trying another idea today.
It seems to me the wick in most atties is pretty loose, and easy to remove.
Up until now, Ive been wrapping the coil tightly around the wick. This possibly is removing the space for liquid and air to work with the coil in that confined environment.
Today I am going to wrap the coil looser if possible, in hopes that it will perform for a longer period of time if the wick is not compressed by the wire. Any comments are welcome to my efforts. So a loose coil wrap is the next technique to try.
I tried the ceramic wick but it concerns me, at this time I'm not comfortable using it.
@Poppa D use a pin outside the wick the way the Bulli wick and coil is done and try different size pins, this will give you a consistent coil size each time, hope this makes sense
Poppa I've wondered how it would work with a much looser coil as well. Waiting to hear your report.
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