that is a good idea Eye because when you remove the pin/nail/railroad spike you'll have a consistent gap between the coil and wick. Currently I use a long pin in the wick like Imeo showed.
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that is a good idea Eye because when you remove the pin/nail/railroad spike you'll have a consistent gap between the coil and wick. Currently I use a long pin in the wick like Imeo showed.
My offer still stands if you want to sell, or I am going to have the rest of mine fired by a friend in his kiln and if you want to send yours I will have him fire it with mine.
Darn now i gotta look for a railroad spike, Umm I have a 12 inch nail somewhere at home
Darn now i gotta look for a railroad spike, Umm I have a 12 inch nail somewhere at home
I love your avatar BTW.
My 6th coil variant of the day cements I'll use the ceramic on all my coils. After making a couple of fiberglass and doing a head to head, my initial thoughts were confirmed....ceramic for me. Crimp tubes are OK and fairly easy to do, but I'm enjoying the current one where I soldered the R and NR wires to each other. With solder the "joint" is smaller than the tubes and it is permanent. Lastly, no more coils below 2 ohms....can't handle it. lol I like the warmth and flavor of higher resistance and volts. What I can't figure out is I get much better wicking when I cut the wick short instead of a long piece down below the cone. I thought that would wick better but it's just the opposite.
Hi Para I found when I didnt bend the wick up it reduced the leaks I was having, so the wicks were cut short but still outside the cone, the only prob I can see is you wont get all the juice without some tilting which you do when vaping anyway, or am I off the mark?
Since the ceramic seems to be slightly thicker I wonder if pinching it is causing it to not wick as well.
Not getting as much of the tank volume is the only downside I know of; but I never vape that far w/o refilling anyway. I modded the slots in the black plastic so the wick was loose in the slot and frayed on the ends to increase the surface area. Dunno why the difference, but it's a LOT better cut short. I've compared several and always get the same result. There has to be a good reason; I just can figure out what it is.
2 identical PV's with identical coils set for identical volts....the only variant is the length of the ceramic wick
Para,
I could very well be out to lunch on this, but it may have to do with viscous friction and having to pull the fluids along a greater distance which also tends to provide greater resistance to flow. Capillary action can only pull a fluid so far without assistance under this condition.
Rick has also experienced this and is now cutting off his xc-116 right below the cone.
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Makes sense and I never wait for a burnt taste im always topping off and fiddling
Your hypothesis makes sense. I'm vaing 100% VG that's pretty thick so if it does have a problem pulling juice that far, that juice would make it worse.
Para, My ideal set up so far is cutting the wicks just to where they stay touch the bottom plastic piece. (just to the bottom of the tank) I have some thoughts as to why it works the best. I think bending the wick material doesn't end up helping. I don't think any wick past the kink accomplishes anything but hold juice. I think the hollow shape of the ceramic wick helps it's properties, so if the bottom is open (unkinked) when the tank is full it pushes juice up to the cone, where the tight fit, only allows enough juice in.
I think an important aspect is the structure of the wick, I don't believe that the frayed ends accomplish anything other than reduce the efficiency of the original structure. Wicking is based an equilibrium between the fluid in the tank, and how wet the coil is. Essentially fluids passing along a semi-permiable membrane (of sorts) Any extra wick (when the tank is almost empty) is just a reservoir for juice that isn't at the coil. By minimizing the wicking material your maintaining the structure (best efficiency) and (theoretically) getting more juice when the tank is nearing empty.
Whew
But I might be totally full of
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I forgot to add, I try not to kink the wick up by the ceramic. keeping a gradual curve is much more efficient than pulling the wick tight.
Don't give up on this Repent it really is awesome. I just checked my current wick after a week and a half of heavy use and the wick is still white. I have never had anything not turn at least brown where it contacts the coil.
I used the butane torch that came with my creme brulee kit and I heated an area of the wick until the glow went from red to white, then moved to the next area. One thing that seems to not be mentioned anymore is I soak the wick in Everclear or vodka for 5 minutes or more and swish it around a bit then take it out and let it dry before I used it.
Thanks eyebrook,
I did this using a medium sized paperclip, and it worked nicely. I'm getting 1.5-2 less coils in the wrap, just on the verge of loose, but some retention on the wick.
I did this using a medium sized paperclip, and it worked nicely. I'm getting 1.5-2 less coils in the wrap, just on the verge of loose, but some retention on the wick.
Para, My ideal set up so far is cutting the wicks just to where they stay touch the bottom plastic piece. (just to the bottom of the tank) I have some thoughts as to why it works the best. I think bending the wick material doesn't end up helping. I don't think any wick past the kink accomplishes anything but hold juice. I think the hollow shape of the ceramic wick helps it's properties, so if the bottom is open (unkinked) when the tank is full it pushes juice up to the cone, where the tight fit, only allows enough juice in.
I think an important aspect is the structure of the wick, I don't believe that the frayed ends accomplish anything other than reduce the efficiency of the original structure. Wicking is based an equilibrium between the fluid in the tank, and how wet the coil is. Essentially fluids passing along a semi-permiable membrane (of sorts) Any extra wick (when the tank is almost empty) is just a reservoir for juice that isn't at the coil. By minimizing the wicking material your maintaining the structure (best efficiency) and (theoretically) getting more juice when the tank is nearing empty.
Whew
But I might be totally full of
Didn't think it could get better....but it did. This one I cut the wick short but didn't fray the ends. A 3.0 @ 5.5v is making the best tasting vapor yet.
Has anyone tracked the resistance over time? I wonder if resistance will go up or down as we vape the setup. Anyone know?
I'll go back to a longer wick on the next round, but this setup FAR exceeds anyting I've previously tried.
Cause and Effect, is what's important right now......Try as many variables noting the changes so when it's time to stop the experiments I know what to do to get what I want.
Para, it's tempting to change too many things at once with the iAtty, and if you do, you will never know which ones makes it a superior vape. Slow and steady wins the race
I got tired of fumbling with leads while holding an atty so I took a meter I wasn't using, mounted the connectors in a battery box, and wired them internally. Now I screw on an atty and turn on the meter to get a reading....works well and cheap to make.
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