DARWIN!! From EVOLVAPOR.COM – My Overview and First Impressions – Newest PRE-Production Prototype

[candre23]

Whatever "generation" you want to stick them in, the provari and the darwin are the only units in it right now. Active power management was the last step needed for a truly modern PV. At most, the only thing someone can do to innovate now is combine active power management with juice feeding. Well, that, and lowering the price quite a bit.

Interestingly, the original, standard 510 battery uses active power management. It wasn't adjustable, but it uses a timer and a FET to get ~3.2V out of a 3.7V battery. The Ego works the same way. From an EE standpoint, the only difference between an ego and a state-of-the-art PV is a 2nd LiPo cell and about $10 worth of electronics.

 

[clyde2801]

While I appreciate of the previous posters expertise in technical matters, I respectfully think that it's getting into hairsplitting a bit. It's the same thing as saying the carlos juice box was a 3rd gen mod because it fed juice from the bottom, but the mr puffer and vape mate, which fed it from the top, are 4ths. A little bit of generality must come into play.

I would call the darwin, pro-vari, eclipse, and precious v2 (assuming it ever ships, harumph) 4th gen mods due to their ability to monitor, control and ADJUST the flow of current to the atty/carto using electronic and/or computerized components. This would therefore keep the original 510 and for that matter the xhaler (sorry, Drew!) from being categorized as 4th gen mods. The four or so mods listed may have different strengths, designs, methods, etc., but still should be in the same category.

 

[Throat hit]

Anyone know why it is not shipping to the uk and for that matter canada to.

 

[clyde2801]

May want to PM Drewsworld on that one, mate.

 

[Throat hit]

ok will do thanks clyde

 

[clyde2801]

No prob. By the way, best....ecf.....handle.....EVER.

 

[ukeman]

This can get confusing... but you 3 posters have laid it out there.

Personally i'd prefer to widen the criteria for "generation" labeling to include various functions while narrowing it to the area of power to juice; what goes on to get the power to the juice.

i.e. if you stick a cartomizer on an eGo do your call it a 3rd? no, but if you ask me, while juice dispensing is a big deal for many, until the earlier mentioned forthcoming electronically driven juice feed arrives and proves worthy, i still don't know if that function (juice feeding) deserves its own "generation" category...

i won't argue it but what some are calling "smart" pv's (active power management) seems much more of a design leap than getting juice to an atty by squeezing a bottle.

Variable voltage non PCB (non "smart") or with PCB imo also, like juice dispensing, might not qualify as a "generation" either.

I will say that imo active power management is a huge improvement

I've been at it 5 months only, and am not a tech oriented person. I don't even know the difference between a "mechanical" vs "electronic" design...

I certainly couldn't say which gen anything is - and until further consensus will not use "gen" as a desrciptor.

I like these categories but I might consider one minor change. I think I might consider non-PCB variable voltage devices as 4th generation and PCB devices as 5th generation.

EDIT: then again, under that thinking, PCB with automatic functions might be 6th generation - so I categorize Darwin as 6th gen!

 

[NebulaBrot]

Uke, Don't think there was ever anything "official" intended in this playful "generations" exchange. Granted, Clyde is a much more experienced reviewer so he may have been more serious than I was.

While I was being playful, I certainly DO see "smart" devices as being a big evolutionary step in vape devices. Beyond that, when the microprocessor starts actively taking over functional changes (Darwin) or becomes programmable (Eclipse - as slated), I see that as yet another step in "smart".

But, at least for my part, this was not a serious attempt to "officially" define "generations" of devices.

 

[Sewknitty]

I can't believe how many modders don't realise that this feature is crucial!

Sexist, I call it

scylla

Exactly!

 

[ukeman]

so i can use "gen" in my posts? lol...
i get yah NebulaBrot...

nevertheless (ha)... how do you describe these things to non vapers, and even ourselves?

someone ought to write a book... or at least get a consensus from those that "know"...

I only "know" how great these changes have been from taking each one, in step, as an end user, and seeing the improvements, and i surely like (love) what i am seeing (vaping).... ! cheers

Uke, Don't think there was ever anything "official" intended in this playful "generations" exchange. Granted, Clyde is a much more experienced reviewer so he may have been more serious than I was.

While I was being playful, I certainly DO see "smart" devices as being a big evolutionary step in vape devices. Beyond that, when the microprocessor starts actively taking over functional changes (Darwin) or becomes programmable (Eclipse - as slated), I see that as yet another step in "smart".

But, at least for my part, this was not a serious attempt to "officially" define "generations" of devices.

 

[candre23]

I respectfully think that it's getting into hairsplitting a bit.
...
I would call the darwin, pro-vari, eclipse, and precious v2 (assuming it ever ships, harumph) 4th gen mods due to their ability to monitor, control and ADJUST the flow of current to the atty/carto using electronic and/or computerized components.

The Precious V2 may or may not fit the bill (if/when it ships), but there's precious little (pun intended) info available about how it works. If it's using an active power modulation system, then it's in the same league with the darwin and provari. If not, it isn't. I can't find any information about the eclipse, unless you mean the weird semi-cigarette from RJ Renolds. If that's what you're talking about, then it's not just in a different league, it's not even playing the same sport.

There is a big step forward, both technically and practically, when moving from a linear regulator (buzz, joker, etc) to a switching regulator. Efficiency goes from as little as 50% with a linear reg to well above 90% for switching. That means you can nearly double the battery life while getting the same vape performance. With a bucking reg like the darwin, you also get much lower discharge rates, which extend the overall lifespan of the batteries.

 

[VaporMadness]

There is a big step forward, both technically and practically, when moving from a linear regulator (buzz, joker, etc) to a switching regulator. Efficiency goes from as little as 50% with a linear reg to well above 90% for switching. That means you can nearly double the battery life while getting the same vape performance. With a bucking reg like the darwin, you also get much lower discharge rates, which extend the overall lifespan of the batteries.

Ah... thanx for that tidbit of info! I was underwhelmed when the Buzz came out since it used a linear regulator, and hadn't yet figured out what kind of regulator the Darwin uses. Looks like the Darwin has a large 3.7v power source and it steps that voltage up/down as needed, is that right? Any info on how efficient the Darwin's circuit is at different Vouts?

 

[clyde2801]

Loving this thing....

 

[VaporMadness]

Darwin’s main body (atty folded in the down position) is approximately 5.5” long, about 1.12” wide and barely over ½” thick. At the atty connector (swivel) the overall width is about 1.63”. Of course whichever atty or carto we use will increase the overall length with the atty/carto in the “up” position.

Evolv will very soon be posting a full list of specifications and features on their web site Evolv, LLC

The body is double hard coat anodized aluminum leaving it extremely durable with a wonderful sort of silky feel to the touch and hand.

The batteries are 2 lithium polymer cells – not prism (regular tube batts).

Lot's of good info here... i hope this sort of info does get published on their site.

Are the two batts run in series or parallel?

 

[LanceH]

Great info here. I may buy one of these once I learn more about PVs.

 

[cigarbabe]

I just got my Darwin and it's been charging for a few hours but what I don't have is any information on how it works and I see it starts from a range of 4.2 v to over 10!
Is there a manual or chart telling me how to se this device?
C.B.

 

[NebulaBrot]

I just got my Darwin and it's been charging for a few hors but what I don't have is any information on how it works and I see it starts from a range of 4.2 v to over 10!
Is there a manual or chart telling me how to se this device?
C.B.

Darwin is SUPER EASY to operate. The setting is based on watts (heat output). You turn that dial and see the (large) watts setting change on the screen. You do not set the volts but you will SEE the volts when you activate the button. The Watts set "wheel" has a mid way sort of stopping point at 8.5 watts. this is a good place to start. If you are accustomed to using LR attys on 3.7, 8(ish) watts is the approximate range. if you are accustomed to using 3 ohms attys/cartos on 5 volts - again, 8ish watts is that range. So, I'd suggest you start at that mid-way stopping point on the wheel and then adjust up or down from there. You will very quickly get a feel for which watts levels are best for your preferences. The neat thing is that whatever juice you use (for a given watts level) - will be the same (or very close) regardless of which atty or carto you use. You may have to make small adjustments (due to variances in the atty/cartos) but Darwin does the conversions and adjustments for you to keep the heat output level (watts) consistent.

If you have any more questions, post or PM me or any of the other prototype testers. Many are now recieving their production units (their posts can be seen here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/nhaler/151096-darwin-evolv-25.html#post2553925 ). So there will be more and more people with units for discussions. I would imagine Evolv will be making some sort of announcement very soon. You can sign up for updates on their site: www.evolvapor.com

 

[NCVapingLady]

I just got my Darwin and it's been charging for a few hors but what I don't have is any information on how it works and I see it starts from a range of 4.2 v to over 10!
Is there a manual or chart telling me how to se this device?
C.B.

Hmmm, I'm surprised it doesn't have a quick cheat sheet or something. I've been watching this thread diligently because I am seriously thinking about getting one. However, I'm real new to the vv devices and was assuming that a cheat sheet would be included.

 

[NebulaBrot]

Hmmm, I'm surprised it doesn't have a quick cheat sheet or something. I've been watching this thread diligently because I am seriously thinking about getting one. However, I'm real new to the vv devices and was assuming that a cheat sheet would be included.

Cannot speak for Evolv but I would imagine they will be posting full details soon. If you want a quick reference, you can use the overly generalized formula: volts squared and divide by ohms (R) = watts. Or: VxV/R=Watts

So:
(3.7v x 3.7v)/1.8 (avg LR atty ohms) = 7.6 watts

3.7x3.7/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 5.47 watts

5x5/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 10 watts
5x5/3.0=8.33 watts
5x5/3.3=7.57 watts

6x6/3.3=10.90 watts
6x6/4.5(typical HV atty) = 8 watts

We are all accustomed to think in terms of setting volts. But, to decide volts we either have to blindly adjust to taste or do the above calculations (for a starting place) to find the heat output (watts) level we want to vape at. Darwin does the calculations and voltage changes for us - so once we focus on the heat output level (watts) we want - a quick turn of that wheel and Darwin does the rest. This is a MUCH faster and easier way of setting and that heat output (watts) level will be the same regardless of which atty/carto you put on the device - because Darwin reads the atty/carto ohms and makes the adjustments for us = "Smart" device.

 

[cigarbabe]

Hmmm, I'm surprised it doesn't have a quick cheat sheet or something. I've been watching this thread diligently because I am seriously thinking about getting one. However, I'm real new to the vv devices and was assuming that a cheat sheet would be included.

Yeah so did I but after reading NebulaBrot's post I seem to remember that this device will self adjust to whatever atty you use so there is less need for a manual but a booklet with this explanation would be very helpful.
Perhaps NebulaBrot and Angus should write a little booklet for those of us unfamiliar with using watts or volts.
C.B.