rofl... I wondered why they did away with 2 and just went from v 1.5 to v 3. Says right on the sight, version 2.0. K... that es'plains. 
- Status
Yes I was referring to the drip well, not whether it is sealed. I agree the seal seems identical between the two.
Sent from my phone; Please excuse typos / autocorrections.
Sent from my phone; Please excuse typos / autocorrections.
rofl... I wondered why they did away with 2 and just went from v 1.5 to v 3. Says right on the sight, version 2.0. K... that es'plains.
You lost me on that one Rachel!
I found the "version 2.0" on the IVape site but what site did you see V3 listed, all I've seen listed at any site is V2? I'm hoping V3 will be the one with the eGo threading.Errol
Last edited:
OK, here's a pic showing the tops of the two units I have. On the left is my LT1.0, and on the right is my Varitube X. This illustrates the 'drip well' comments I made.
I tried to get a pic of what the LCD looks like when lit up but had a hard time, sorry.
I tried to get a pic of what the LCD looks like when lit up but had a hard time, sorry.
OK, here's a pic showing the tops of the two units I have. On the left is my LT1.0, and on the right is my Varitube X. This illustrates the 'drip well' comments I made.
I tried to get a pic of what the LCD looks like when lit up but had a hard time, sorry.
Good job, that should remove any doubts.
Errol
Perfect. And errol... I didn't see it listed on the site, it's in the name of the thread! lol New V3 lavatube is about to hit. I just thought since half the people are calling the v1.5 the v2, they must have skipped 2 entirely. rofl
Oh, and as for the ego connection... stainless/chrome and steel have that. I've got a photo of mine somewhere if you'd like it. Though it is a bit screwy since it doesn't work on all ego gear. They didn't make the 'channel' quite deep enough, so stuff like joye and riva ego gear seems to work on it just fine, but in order to use something like a ce4/stardust, I need to use a '510 to 510 shorty adapter'. No biggie, as a) the draw on them is a little 'airy' anyway, so with most cartos (barring the 2.7ohm sc resurrectors from smokt, cause they have a rather tight draw lately that compensates) people want to use an adapter to tighten the draw anyway, and b) once the skirted ego carto is on, the adapter is totally invisible. I'll tell you what... the day they make the v3 in chrome or ideally copper, I'm so there. lol If I had money I'd grab one in a hot second, though. As it was, I was hoping to get a v 1.5 in next few mos, but now I can skip that step. BTW, do you know if that $50 tube alone that keeps getting mentioned and linked to in this thread is the v2, or is it the v 1.5? Says 1.5 in the description, and doesn't say anything about 4 amps, but everyone keeps saying its the new one. $50 for tube alone is a lot better for me than $75 for kit, esp since I like IMR or Panasonic batts, not the ones they give in kits, usually.
Oh, I lied... says very clearly in the description that its 4amps. lol Though they ARE confusing the matter by calling it the v 1.5 lol And sadly they only have black and I'd aim for the silver in a powdercoat. BUT could always get a skin at electronicstix with my graphics on it. More moola though.
http://www.vaporalley.com/V15-t-Tube-Only-4-Amp-Circuit_p_259.html
Oh, and as for the ego connection... stainless/chrome and steel have that. I've got a photo of mine somewhere if you'd like it. Though it is a bit screwy since it doesn't work on all ego gear. They didn't make the 'channel' quite deep enough, so stuff like joye and riva ego gear seems to work on it just fine, but in order to use something like a ce4/stardust, I need to use a '510 to 510 shorty adapter'. No biggie, as a) the draw on them is a little 'airy' anyway, so with most cartos (barring the 2.7ohm sc resurrectors from smokt, cause they have a rather tight draw lately that compensates) people want to use an adapter to tighten the draw anyway, and b) once the skirted ego carto is on, the adapter is totally invisible. I'll tell you what... the day they make the v3 in chrome or ideally copper, I'm so there. lol If I had money I'd grab one in a hot second, though. As it was, I was hoping to get a v 1.5 in next few mos, but now I can skip that step. BTW, do you know if that $50 tube alone that keeps getting mentioned and linked to in this thread is the v2, or is it the v 1.5? Says 1.5 in the description, and doesn't say anything about 4 amps, but everyone keeps saying its the new one. $50 for tube alone is a lot better for me than $75 for kit, esp since I like IMR or Panasonic batts, not the ones they give in kits, usually.
Oh, I lied... says very clearly in the description that its 4amps. lol Though they ARE confusing the matter by calling it the v 1.5 lol And sadly they only have black and I'd aim for the silver in a powdercoat. BUT could always get a skin at electronicstix with my graphics on it. More moola though.
http://www.vaporalley.com/V15-t-Tube-Only-4-Amp-Circuit_p_259.html
Last edited:
Rachel, there is someone out there that is marketing a Version 3 as to keep themselves separated from everyone else. I have been trying to find who it was and can't so far. I think the person to ask is ChrispyCritter.....
Hi again Rachel,
LavaTube versions as I understand them. V1=2.5amp, V1.5=3amp, and V2=4amp
All of the Varitubes (LavaTubes) listed on this page at IVape are V1 2.5amp=12watts except the Varitube X that is V2 at 4amps. As far as I can see they don't list a V1.5. https://ivape.net/index.php/MODS/Variable-Changeable-Voltage.html
The eGo head in the second picture at DaBoom's site is what I was talking about. It has a spring loaded center pin that eliminates the problem of the pin being too low to make contact with the vaporizer. AFIK all of these chrome units are V1 @2.5amp. Apparently a 4amp version is in the works. http://vapingguides.com/blog/breaking-news/chrome-lavatube-review/
Afraid there is a mistake at this link V1.5-t Tube Only (4 Amp Circuit) I really don't think it can be a 4amp unit, most likely the 3amp unit. I haven't seen a V2 except at IVape and Vapor Beast.
The Lambo VV Mod listed at Lambo VV Mod is what I want when it becomes available in a 4amp version Lambo VV Mod
Errol
LavaTube versions as I understand them. V1=2.5amp, V1.5=3amp, and V2=4amp
All of the Varitubes (LavaTubes) listed on this page at IVape are V1 2.5amp=12watts except the Varitube X that is V2 at 4amps. As far as I can see they don't list a V1.5. https://ivape.net/index.php/MODS/Variable-Changeable-Voltage.html
The eGo head in the second picture at DaBoom's site is what I was talking about. It has a spring loaded center pin that eliminates the problem of the pin being too low to make contact with the vaporizer. AFIK all of these chrome units are V1 @2.5amp. Apparently a 4amp version is in the works. http://vapingguides.com/blog/breaking-news/chrome-lavatube-review/
Afraid there is a mistake at this link V1.5-t Tube Only (4 Amp Circuit) I really don't think it can be a 4amp unit, most likely the 3amp unit. I haven't seen a V2 except at IVape and Vapor Beast.
The Lambo VV Mod listed at Lambo VV Mod is what I want when it becomes available in a 4amp version Lambo VV Mod
Errol
Perfect. And errol... I didn't see it listed on the site, it's in the name of the thread! lol New V3 lavatube is about to hit. I just thought since half the people are calling the v1.5 the v2, they must have skipped 2 entirely. rofl
Oh, and as for the ego connection... stainless/chrome and steel have that. I've got a photo of mine somewhere if you'd like it. Though it is a bit screwy since it doesn't work on all ego gear. They didn't make the 'channel' quite deep enough, so stuff like joye and riva ego gear seems to work on it just fine, but in order to use something like a ce4/stardust, I need to use a '510 to 510 shorty adapter'. No biggie, as a) the draw on them is a little 'airy' anyway, so with most cartos (barring the 2.7ohm sc resurrectors from smokt, cause they have a rather tight draw lately that compensates) people want to use an adapter to tighten the draw anyway, and b) once the skirted ego carto is on, the adapter is totally invisible. I'll tell you what... the day they make the v3 in chrome or ideally copper, I'm so there. lol If I had money I'd grab one in a hot second, though. As it was, I was hoping to get a v 1.5 in next few mos, but now I can skip that step. BTW, do you know if that $50 tube alone that keeps getting mentioned and linked to in this thread is the v2, or is it the v 1.5? Says 1.5 in the description, and doesn't say anything about 4 amps, but everyone keeps saying its the new one. $50 for tube alone is a lot better for me than $75 for kit, esp since I like IMR or Panasonic batts, not the ones they give in kits, usually.
Oh, I lied... says very clearly in the description that its 4amps. lol Though they ARE confusing the matter by calling it the v 1.5 lol And sadly they only have black and I'd aim for the silver in a powdercoat. BUT could always get a skin at electronicstix with my graphics on it. More moola though.
V1.5-t Tube Only (4 Amp Circuit)
Last edited:
Perfect. And errol... I didn't see it listed on the site, it's in the name of the thread! lol New V3 lavatube is about to hit. I just thought since half the people are calling the v1.5 the v2, they must have skipped 2 entirely. rofl
Oh, and as for the ego connection... stainless/chrome and steel have that. I've got a photo of mine somewhere if you'd like it. Though it is a bit screwy since it doesn't work on all ego gear. They didn't make the 'channel' quite deep enough, so stuff like joye and riva ego gear seems to work on it just fine, but in order to use something like a ce4/stardust, I need to use a '510 to 510 shorty adapter'. No biggie, as a) the draw on them is a little 'airy' anyway, so with most cartos (barring the 2.7ohm sc resurrectors from smokt, cause they have a rather tight draw lately that compensates) people want to use an adapter to tighten the draw anyway, and b) once the skirted ego carto is on, the adapter is totally invisible. I'll tell you what... the day they make the v3 in chrome or ideally copper, I'm so there. lol If I had money I'd grab one in a hot second, though. As it was, I was hoping to get a v 1.5 in next few mos, but now I can skip that step. BTW, do you know if that $50 tube alone that keeps getting mentioned and linked to in this thread is the v2, or is it the v 1.5? Says 1.5 in the description, and doesn't say anything about 4 amps, but everyone keeps saying its the new one. $50 for tube alone is a lot better for me than $75 for kit, esp since I like IMR or Panasonic batts, not the ones they give in kits, usually.
Oh, I lied... says very clearly in the description that its 4amps. lol Though they ARE confusing the matter by calling it the v 1.5 lol And sadly they only have black and I'd aim for the silver in a powdercoat. BUT could always get a skin at electronicstix with my graphics on it. More moola though.
V1.5-t Tube Only (4 Amp Circuit)
this is fun!
I just saw that carlton replied to my post a few pages back asking about that vapor alley one. I don't know if this is accurate, but carlton usually knows his stuff. He said that the vapor alley one is a v2 (ie 4amp) because they changed the end cap design between 1.5 and 2, and the caps on the vapor alley one are the v2 caps. So I dunno... really hoping that is the 4 amp one, cause when I get one it'll be tube alone. I dunno if that's true or not, though, cause the ccv listing for the v 1.5 doesn't show the end caps, oddly enough. I know a guy who just got one of those today, I'll ask him what the caps look like.
and yeah, I'm with you on the lambo. I'm just calling that 'chrome' but that's what I'm really excited about too. Or copper would be ideal. You get a pv in gorgeous metal body, 4 amps, built in resistance meter... poor man's provari, right there.
and yeah, I'm with you on the lambo. I'm just calling that 'chrome' but that's what I'm really excited about too. Or copper would be ideal. You get a pv in gorgeous metal body, 4 amps, built in resistance meter... poor man's provari, right there.
All I know is I read awhile ago that the "V3 LT" was coming around the end of May with a higher amp limit, new ends and the ohm meter..I think the 4amp limit one is what people are calling a "V3"..VaporAlley is calling it a "V1.5-t" (probably the same exact device VaporBeast is selling) though so maybe there is another one coming..or maybe the Chrome "V1.5-t" will be a "V3".
I'm pretty sure the Chrome "Lambo" from L-Rider is what is considered a "V2". I did read something about L-Rider having a newer device coming in a month or 2 maybe. Anyways I wouldn't buy into version numbers too much just look at features listed..within a couple weeks there should be the 4amp Chrome version (at least that's what VaporBeast says)...
OK, here's a pic showing the tops of the two units I have. On the left is my LT1.0, and on the right is my Varitube X. This illustrates the 'drip well' comments I made.
I tried to get a pic of what the LCD looks like when lit up but had a hard time, sorry.
Thanks so much for the pics, clears up alot!!
Happy to. If any other detail pics are wanted let me know.
I just put a 3ohm sc carto in my 6ml tank. Display says it is 2.5, and seems to vape well at 4.2 with the juice I have. Again, not verified with a meter, but reasonable. I know 3.0 can often be 2.7 in reality, so it may not even be far off..
By contrast, if I put this same tank on my LT1.0, I would have it set at 4 - 4.2v. Certainly a difference there between units depending on the carto, for me so far, and am basically just going by taste instead of trying to match numbers anymore, as the circuits are clearly different enough that there is no clear comparison. (I think someone up above speculated that it had to do with either PWM, or on-load versus off-load measurements. Not sure if either of those are it, or something else, but there is clearly a difference...)
This is in contrast to the 2 ohm sc or 2.5 ohm dc. These hit similar at settings that aren't as close (4v on v1, 3-3.4v on v2).
As I keep saying though, I am quite happy with it so far, and will update this more after I've put many more hours on it, to give a fair chance for pros and cons to be fairly clear.
Sent from my phone; Please excuse typos / autocorrections.
I just put a 3ohm sc carto in my 6ml tank. Display says it is 2.5, and seems to vape well at 4.2 with the juice I have. Again, not verified with a meter, but reasonable. I know 3.0 can often be 2.7 in reality, so it may not even be far off..
By contrast, if I put this same tank on my LT1.0, I would have it set at 4 - 4.2v. Certainly a difference there between units depending on the carto, for me so far, and am basically just going by taste instead of trying to match numbers anymore, as the circuits are clearly different enough that there is no clear comparison. (I think someone up above speculated that it had to do with either PWM, or on-load versus off-load measurements. Not sure if either of those are it, or something else, but there is clearly a difference...)
This is in contrast to the 2 ohm sc or 2.5 ohm dc. These hit similar at settings that aren't as close (4v on v1, 3-3.4v on v2).
As I keep saying though, I am quite happy with it so far, and will update this more after I've put many more hours on it, to give a fair chance for pros and cons to be fairly clear.
Sent from my phone; Please excuse typos / autocorrections.
Last edited:
I agree entirely, I just want my first VV to be relatively 'accurate'
I'm willing to call it OCD, but still...
My second one can be as 'relative' as it wants to be
Oh. Then I'd suggest a box mod. You can get a good one pretty cheap and it'll be close to dead on. Or you could get a Provari.
You just quoted my daily internal monologue verbatim LOL
But a solid VV box mod with a digital display seems harder to come by; well mad vapes has one, but I saw complaints about it "getting hot"
But a solid VV box mod with a digital display seems harder to come by; well mad vapes has one, but I saw complaints about it "getting hot"
Rachel,
The problem with chrome/SS caps is not in the depth of the well. The problem is that the 510 connection on the chrome/SS caps have a larger diameter than any other 510 connection I've seen, about 10.4 mm vs. standard 9.5 mm. You can visually see this if you screw on one of your adaptors and look at the interface between the two parts. The 510 connection inside the end cap is clearly of a greater diameter. Put the adaptor on any other 510 connection you have and you will see they are the same. The visions were built to fit over a 9.5 mm connection with a relatively tight tolerance.
You just quoted my daily internal monologue verbatim LOL
But a solid VV box mod with a digital display seems harder to come by; well mad vapes has one, but I saw complaints about it "getting hot"
My friend Rick had great luck with a slightly pricier unit from Welcome to SmokTek, LLC - The Better Smoking Alternative - Your source for personal vaporizers, e-cig supplies and e-liquids called a 'varicool'. Was pricier, though, at close to 50$, but it seems a lot more durable than other boxes I've seen. I'd still take the incremental Ovale at Discount Vapers anyday. Used a vv boxmod for ages before I got another vv, and my old ovale... with only 3 voltages... is a MUCH more satisfying vape in a much nicer looking unit, and it feels great in a hand. I can't speak to the accuracy, but in terms of satisfaction and visual appeal... beats it hands down. And you can get the whole kit including batts, charger, etc etc for $50, or device alone for $30 at DV. Oh, and the Ovale is 2 18350s while the varicool (and most vv boxes) is 2 14500s, so there will be a considerable difference in battery life.
Last edited:
That makes sense, 100%, and is great to know, but the important tidbit for me is that a '510 to 510 shorty' adapter makes it work perfectly. So something about that extra 5-6mm must resolve the diameter, somehow. Anyway, I'm actually happier (overall) that it doesn't fit perfectly, because if it did, there would be no attractive (ie can't see it) way to make the draw tighter than using gear.
I don't hate the 'airy' draw, either, because it makes it easier to use things like tighter cartos, and I can adjust that with an adapter (which most of the time you can barely see). I use 100% VG juice, so eventually my cartos get very hard to hit... just tighter and tighter. And I can use em a good 2 weeks longer on the metal tube, as long as I take off the adapter. lol So yeah, its sort of a pain in the tail to use an adapter, but I really like that I can 'adjust' the airflow on my tube to use gear that won't work on any other device. Anyway, if anyone is considering one, and thinks the adapters will be a hassle, I have a little photo tut on my ecf blog that'll show you exactly what I mean. lol- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
