I wonder if it comes in a box that says "Together Best Cooperation" (Tobeco)
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So patience got the better of me.
Off with the perfectly formed .9 dual.wick and started playing with joining no res to res wire and found an easy quick way.
Within a few mins had a 1.5 ohm coil and was vaping.
Bit higher perhaps than I would like but rather happy with my first attempt and a few hours in have to say the Xc 1600 is performing as well as I had hoped.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Off with the perfectly formed .9 dual.wick and started playing with joining no res to res wire and found an easy quick way.
Within a few mins had a 1.5 ohm coil and was vaping.
Bit higher perhaps than I would like but rather happy with my first attempt and a few hours in have to say the Xc 1600 is performing as well as I had hoped.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
So I cracked the V2 ceramic on the Terminator :-( still work though, just order 2 ceramic fro, stormy. Question, has anyone try 34 gauge?
I vape pretty much exclusively on a single 34 gauge coil. I generally eyeball about a half inch of Kanthal to make a 1.8 - 2 ohm coil -- about 3 turns over 2 around a 3mm wick. Doesn't sound as impressive as sub-ohm, but rest assured that 34 gauge burns hotter at a given power level than a lower resistance 30 gauge. The taste is magnificent to me.
On a different note, I actually came here to post something else.
To keep from having to crank my ceramic assembly down so far into the bottom juice collector, I replaced my bottom O-ring with a carto plug.
Now my positive post sits flush with the negative collar, and the old man whistle is pretty much gone.
I've got no leaking problems in this configuration so far.
I use 34 gauge all the time with the term and Ithaca - about 4 wraps on 3m wick doubled hits 1.5 ish ohm for me . Not like I would only use that gauge I just happen to have more of it
I'm seriously considering throwing in the towel on these. Gurgle gurgle. I'm sick of it!
Anymore NEW suggestions? Or I'm going to the classy's.
Anymore NEW suggestions? Or I'm going to the classy's.
The only times I get gurgle are when I either didn't use enough wick or there was not enough air flow when attached to the mod. These things don't work on all mods.
I have the Term and Odys, and like b0red said, only time I get gurgle is when I use less than 3mm silica , not enough air flow; because you end up sucking too much, or when my batteries are on the dying end and coil does not heat up enough. On that note, maybe your coil is not getting hot enough, you might want to use a slightly lower resistance so you get more heat or just close the juice flow a tad so you dont get too much liquid drowning your coil.
I hope it helps, but I know how you feel, sometimes a highly praised item just doesnt work for oneself.
I hope it helps, but I know how you feel, sometimes a highly praised item just doesnt work for oneself.
I've done a bunch of set ups, as long as it is 3mm or doubled to equal 3mm on top and 2mm or equivalent on the sides I have no issue.
I generally keep the positive flush or very close with the negative.
I generally keep the positive flush or very close with the negative.
I just got some 3mm in and can't wait to try it. I think with the v2 it will be perfect.
I have lots of air, and lots of heat. The amount of wick material is something I'm fluctuating, hoping for better results. I doubled the amount and thought my problems were gone, but the gurgle came back. I can't believe this. I'm stellar on every other rebuildable. My hand-eye coordination, and eye-sight are top notch. I can build tiny models and paint miniatures. My setups turn out really clean - the channels are nicely packed, no stray wick into the threading, tidy coils, good SS wrap - no shorts.
Sometimes my Term is OK, but even on a build that works for a couple days, I just don't know when the next gurgle will pop up. I've even been able to vape with juice flow closed sometimes. I'm practically totally defeated - making my vape-ego very low.
I have long, medium, short MP's, Kir Fanis tanks, Rampage tanks, upgraded O-rings, tobeco lock-ring available, etc. etc. I mean I've really dived in on these. All along I've been reading a practicing, and blabby blah. I thought for a long time I would just need to learn my way on these, but I'm totally stumped at this point - moving toward totally bummed. I can't even begin to think of the vape gear I passed up while feeding money to my Terms.
Sometimes my Term is OK, but even on a build that works for a couple days, I just don't know when the next gurgle will pop up. I've even been able to vape with juice flow closed sometimes. I'm practically totally defeated - making my vape-ego very low.
I have long, medium, short MP's, Kir Fanis tanks, Rampage tanks, upgraded O-rings, tobeco lock-ring available, etc. etc. I mean I've really dived in on these. All along I've been reading a practicing, and blabby blah. I thought for a long time I would just need to learn my way on these, but I'm totally stumped at this point - moving toward totally bummed. I can't even begin to think of the vape gear I passed up while feeding money to my Terms.
Yes, spot on, b0redagain. I have been using 3mm Vaporbase silica in the T C V2. It has been running perfect with a 1x strand down both sides and a 2x strand at the coil.
- Andy
Quote "I've even been able to vape with juice flow closed sometimes."
That right there tells me what's up.
If air wasn't leaking in it would go dry rather quickly
That right there tells me what's up.
If air wasn't leaking in it would go dry rather quickly
Can't say MM's for sure on my Cotton, but it's aprox. 2mm wide unless you stretch it out. I'm using 4 strands at the coil and two running down the channels. Everything is closed up by the wick.
Right?
I totally agree - but from where? I have this thing locked down so tight I can't adj. JF.
I totally agree - but from where? I have this thing locked down so tight I can't adj. JF.
+1 on what dw said....you have to be getting air from somewhere.....most likely around the mouthpiece. it is important for that oring to seat in the top and compress against the mouthpiece. make sure the mouthpiece is centered in the top cap.
and somehow the juice is getting past the flow control....maybe under the ring, maybe the juice control doesnt sit flush on the ring.....
You post about these mods as if you know what you are doing....so there has to be something very minor that you are just overlooking. Really hard to tell without actually having it sitting right in front of you....
and somehow the juice is getting past the flow control....maybe under the ring, maybe the juice control doesnt sit flush on the ring.....
You post about these mods as if you know what you are doing....so there has to be something very minor that you are just overlooking. Really hard to tell without actually having it sitting right in front of you....
I agree. Crank the mouthpiece ring down to compress the top O-ring against the mouthpiece and create an airtight seal. Moistening that O-ring with a tiny smidge of Vaseline couldn't hurt, either. When you feel resistance opening and closing the juice control, then you've gotten the mouthpiece ring cranked down hard enough.
As usual, I really appreciate the help guys.
I hear you UA72Riddle. I'm under the impression that I have a clue... but this is the one thing that keeps me feeling like a total newb. Since were talking about fluids and vacuum and such I would especially listen when I plumber/pipe fitter speaks up! I offer you my respect brother.
There are a couple other oddities, I may need to consider. If a Tobeco ceramic holder made its way into my Terminator builds would that be a problem? Not sure I can identify which is which any longer. Also, thinking of the non-res trace to ground. Way back, I used to fasten the ground under the lock-ring, but people said no good, so I started grounding in the channel. Basically, I run the non-res wire down the ceramic, under the wick, then double back up on top of the wick to make contact with the body of the base. Is it possible surface tension on the solid wire is drawing juice into my cup?
I hear you UA72Riddle. I'm under the impression that I have a clue... but this is the one thing that keeps me feeling like a total newb. Since were talking about fluids and vacuum and such I would especially listen when I plumber/pipe fitter speaks up! I offer you my respect brother.
There are a couple other oddities, I may need to consider. If a Tobeco ceramic holder made its way into my Terminator builds would that be a problem? Not sure I can identify which is which any longer. Also, thinking of the non-res trace to ground. Way back, I used to fasten the ground under the lock-ring, but people said no good, so I started grounding in the channel. Basically, I run the non-res wire down the ceramic, under the wick, then double back up on top of the wick to make contact with the body of the base. Is it possible surface tension on the solid wire is drawing juice into my cup?
I put this in the wrong thread, sort of, but it should be here
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
I've thought about doing this before, whom ever is just going to have to believe what I'm saying is true.
I'm already doing it now.
So far it's going exactly as I expected.
OK, in all fairness for a good experiment I used my Terminator-C because the juice is above the top of the ceramic where the wick and coil would normally be. But this Terminator-C has no wick or coil and the side channels are widened and the channel across the top is lowered with rounded edges at the corners.
This Terminator-C is filled to the top of the upper tank so it's full. The juice is 90% PG and really thin.
I'm saving the best for last, Mouthpiece is 3 turns open and I have been drawing on it just as if it was functional,no gurgles, no drips, I even removed it from the mod and pressed the 510 on a paper towel and nothing.
So as I have said many many time, if you have a leak/ flooding/ gurgling and it's not because you had it open and filled it you can bet the farm on an air leak at the tank top.
So what I'm trying to say here is channel size and wick size doesn't directly have much to do with leaking. Now if you have a leak of coarse a tightly stuffed channel would cause it to leak slower.(I took at least 30 drags on it while typing this, probably a lot more)
I took the GGTS base off and put on a 510 just in case that I was wrong and it would have made a mess of my MKB
Let me add this, I'm pretty sure that if I took some really heavy drags on it it would have pulled the juice into the ceramic but I just did it in a "normal" way. I by no means went easier on it
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
I've thought about doing this before, whom ever is just going to have to believe what I'm saying is true.
I'm already doing it now.
So far it's going exactly as I expected.
OK, in all fairness for a good experiment I used my Terminator-C because the juice is above the top of the ceramic where the wick and coil would normally be. But this Terminator-C has no wick or coil and the side channels are widened and the channel across the top is lowered with rounded edges at the corners.
This Terminator-C is filled to the top of the upper tank so it's full. The juice is 90% PG and really thin.
I'm saving the best for last, Mouthpiece is 3 turns open and I have been drawing on it just as if it was functional,no gurgles, no drips, I even removed it from the mod and pressed the 510 on a paper towel and nothing.
So as I have said many many time, if you have a leak/ flooding/ gurgling and it's not because you had it open and filled it you can bet the farm on an air leak at the tank top.
So what I'm trying to say here is channel size and wick size doesn't directly have much to do with leaking. Now if you have a leak of coarse a tightly stuffed channel would cause it to leak slower.(I took at least 30 drags on it while typing this, probably a lot more)
I took the GGTS base off and put on a 510 just in case that I was wrong and it would have made a mess of my MKB
Let me add this, I'm pretty sure that if I took some really heavy drags on it it would have pulled the juice into the ceramic but I just did it in a "normal" way. I by no means went easier on it
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