Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[bydus]

thanks alot mate

I have a question I just got euforia and when making my second coil I put one less wrap in order to have it lower resistance, instead the resistance is higher. How does that happen ? I used a low res wire that i've used on my spheroid to make low ohm setup but when i put 4 wraps it turned out to be 2.7ohm and first coil was 5 wraps and was 2.0ohm. Can someone explain it to me, my res wire is pretty thick and hard to work with but I would much rather have a slimmer res wire. thanks

Here ya go.

Diver setup coils - YouTube

- Andy

 

[eratikmind]

thanks alot mate

I have a question I just got euforia and when making my second coil I put one less wrap in order to have it lower resistance, instead the resistance is higher. How does that happen ? I used a low res wire that i've used on my spheroid to make low ohm setup but when i put 4 wraps it turned out to be 2.7ohm and first coil was 5 wraps and was 2.0ohm. Can someone explain it to me, my res wire is pretty thick and hard to work with but I would much rather have a slimmer res wire. thanks

I trust that I have correctly understood your question . . . In a nutshell, If you are using the exact same resistance wire and length, you have a short somewhere.

Resistance is measured by the length of wire used, regardless if you used it to wrap an additional coil or not. In other words, any left over unused resistance wire will add to the resistance of the entire assembly.

- Andy

 

[buffalofloyd]

Just ordered a Nautilus v2 with a clear and stainless steel tank and with a shorter mouthpiece as well to use it in short mode. Waiting for it to get here now. Quite excited to try this thing out as most the reviews and comments I've read are pretty positive. Never used NR wire before but I'm fairly confident I can do it no problem. Ordered some 32 and and 30 awg nickel NR wire along with some 3mm and 2.5mm silica wick.

I was curious however, after using some sub ohm genesis coils and really liking them, would it be alright to use some 30 or even 28awg kanthal and get that resistance under 2ohms? Seems as though a lot of the reviews I've seen and from some limited comments I've read, people are using mostly 32awg and keeping the resistance around 2-2.5ohms. Not being a silica guy I'm just wondering if those real low ohms are not conducive to silica style atomizers. Any suggestions and I would be very appreciative

 

[eratikmind]

One inch of 32g Kanthal A-1 yields me some 1.2 to 1.3Ω. When using 30g Kanthal A-1, I figure for 0.7Ω/in.

Personally, I find that a 32g Kanthal/32g Nickel combo is easier for me to tie the R/NR knots.

- Andy

 

[buffalofloyd]

One inch of 32g Kanthal A-1 yields me some 1.2 to 1.3Ω. When using 30g Kanthal A-1, I figure for 0.7Ω/in.

Personallylly, I find that a 32g Kanthal/32g Nickel combo is easier for me to tie the R/NR knots.

- Andy

Thanks a lot for your input, makes a lot of sense. I did think that using the thicker wire might cause an issue when joining without a welder. I'll first try some setups using 32awg and see how I get on with it. Thanks!

 

[meowmixmeow]

The Terminator positive post, seems to be made out of brass. Also seems to hit a bit stronger on my mkb-ts now that it's exposed.

 

[dwcraig1]

The Terminator positive post, seems to be made out of brass. Also seems to hit a bit stronger on my mkb-ts now that it's exposed.
View attachment 224738

That's correct it's chrome plated brass just as an Oddy's is. On another note, I shortened the positive post on my Tobeco Oddy clone and determined that it was stainless steel. Not the best conductor of electricity but quite a surprise.

 

[Hostile]

theres a co-op running for terminator-c's on facebook, on the lgb group, it's private and you have to join, but I've had good luck, and they've got 'em for 24.95. yes, the good ones, not the tobeco ones.
not sure if I can post links here, but if someone wants the link, pm me. it's getting close to closing time on the list.

 

[dwcraig1]

I just had my first vape with ribbon wire, I got it the idea of using it in a Terminator and that meant welding on the NR.
Well I welded on some nickel to each end with my camera flash zapper but put in in an Igo-L to start with.
I wish now that I've seen it in action that I would have just put it in the Term to start with, the stuff defiantly performs well.
Later.

 

[lctrc]

I just had my first vape with ribbon wire, I got it the idea of using it in a Terminator and that meant welding on the NR.
Well I welded on some nickel to each end with my camera flash zapper but put in in an Igo-L to start with.
I wish now that I've seen it in action that I would have just put it in the Term to start with, the stuff defiantly performs well.
Later.

Happily running .9Ω of 0.8x0.1 A1 ribbon in my v2 TermC. You don't need the zapper though - given the twists you've posted, if I can do it you certainly can.

 

[shroom]

thanks alot mate

I have a question I just got euforia and when making my second coil I put one less wrap in order to have it lower resistance, instead the resistance is higher. How does that happen ? I used a low res wire that i've used on my spheroid to make low ohm setup but when i put 4 wraps it turned out to be 2.7ohm and first coil was 5 wraps and was 2.0ohm. Can someone explain it to me, my res wire is pretty thick and hard to work with but I would much rather have a slimmer res wire. thanks

In your case there is should be only one of the following reasons. The wire gauge is deffirent or there is a loose contact of the higher res coil or the lengh of the higher res coil is longer than the lower one.

 

[dwcraig1]

Happily running .9Ω of 0.8x0.1 A1 ribbon in my v2 TermC. You don't need the zapper though - given the twists you've posted, if I can do it you certainly can.

I guess I should have tried but I didn't think it would work. I needed to practice welding, seemed easier with ribbon and 32 nickel.
I'll give it a try right now

 

[dwcraig1]

I guess I should have tried but I didn't think it would. I needed to practice welding, seemed easier with ribbon and 32 nickel.
I'll give it a try right now

Now I have a real problem. Just how's it gonna sound when I say my best vape'n device is a Tobeco Ody clone sit'n on a Vamo and it's right beside my new GGTS with an Ithaka? oooh ...their looking at each other..
It was not really much different twisting the ribbon with the NR.
I have the GGTS but refuse to use it(fear) my two MKB-TS' hit just as well.

Now I must be seeing things, it's not my Vamo it's a Smok Natural (0.9 ohms)
Interesting thing about my Vamo, when using stacked batteries it reads a 1 ohm coil as 1.2 and fires it just fine but put in a single battery and it reads the same coil as 1 ohm, I like it

OK, I'm lying, but the ribbon wire in the Tobeco worked real well but has a ways to go to best Ithaka with dual coils and such. I shall make some dual coils for Ithaka with ribbon wire soon

 

[tony808]

got my term running perfect for two tanks and now its leaking. i got alot of reading to do

 

[rojo]

got my term running perfect for two tanks and now its leaking. i got alot of reading to do

Looks nice. Try cranking the top collar down against the O-ring seated in the tank's top cap, so that the O-ring bulges inward around the mouthpiece and creates an airtight seal. Moistening the O-ring with a little Vaseline can't hurt either.

If air can get in around the mouthpiece into the tank, then your juice is free to flow out through the 510 connection and flood. But if your juice well is airtight at the top, air can't displace your juice, so it stays where it's supposed to stay. When working right, low pressure is maintained in the tank, and juice feeding is dependent on the capillary action of the wick drawing the juice to your coil. The capillary action opposes the low pressure in the tank, lowering the pressure further, and no flooding. When the pressure gets low enough, you'll see air bubbles enter the tank from the bottom, not the top.

If you turn your juice control and feel a little resistance, then you've got the top collar cranked down tight enough. If no resistance, crank the collar down a little more firmly.

 

[chadsmo]

I seem to be having luck with nr-r-nr joints using the basic method (no square knot, zapper or beads) but with plyers. I used to just use plyers to hold the joint while making the last wrap of nr around the main wrap. But now I'm using them to do all the wrapping, which seems to afford an overall tighter wrap. I think it was chadsmo who mentioned doing it this way a few pages back... at least the only post I saw about it. Apologies to anyobe who's mentioned it before. 1.3ohm holding steady now for 3 days. Only regret is not getting a 1ohmer.

Yeah it was probably me. I don't think my joints are anything special, but I can give a good tug on them and don't separate so I must be doing something right.

I've had my term c v2 setup with the first wick and coil for about 3 days now. I must say I do love the way this thing performs. Probably going to end up being my main atty for at least a bit. I would love to get a glass clear tank or second metal one though so I vape my tank crackers in it.

 

[eratikmind]

Yeah it was probably me. I don't think my joints are anything special, but I can give a good tug on them and don't separate so I must be doing something right.

I've had my term c v2 setup with the first wick and coil for about 3 days now. I must say I do love the way this thing performs. Probably going to end up being my main atty for at least a bit. I would love to get a glass clear tank or second metal one though so I vape my tank crackers in it.

Good to read that it's working for you.


- Andy . . . Don't let the Ciggieman getcha . . . Vape'em.

 

[tony808]

thanks!!! too the top peice off anf snug the oring down the the bottom before screwing it back on and its running great so far

Looks nice. Try cranking the top collar down against the O-ring seated in the tank's top cap, so that the O-ring bulges inward around the mouthpiece and creates an airtight seal. Moistening the O-ring with a little Vaseline can't hurt either.

If air can get in around the mouthpiece into the tank, then your juice is free to flow out through the 510 connection and flood. But if your juice well is airtight at the top, air can't displace your juice, so it stays where it's supposed to stay. When working right, low pressure is maintained in the tank, and juice feeding is dependent on the capillary action of the wick drawing the juice to your coil. The capillary action opposes the low pressure in the tank, lowering the pressure further, and no flooding. When the pressure gets low enough, you'll see air bubbles enter the tank from the bottom, not the top.

If you turn your juice control and feel a little resistance, then you've got the top collar cranked down tight enough. If no resistance, crank the collar down a little more firmly.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

How do you guys compare a Term-C to a Genesis style in terms of performance? I want a Term just because it matches the Sigelei 19 and the mechanism intrigues me, but not much more than that...

 

[rojo]

Kind of apples an oranges. I mean, you can tilt the term-c on its side or upside down and not have to worry about your juice draining out of the wick hole. You have to replace the wick more often, but silica wick is just snip and done -- no torching and no struggling to roll a U-ey. Silica is also instantly delicious, with little to no break-in period.

Most people struggle more with the concept of joining resistance + non-resistance wire though. But that's pretty easy to get the hang of, and non-res wire is cheap.

If you like to build dual coils and vape at sub-ohm resistance, a Genny or a dripping atty like the Nimbus would probably be better for you.

But I can't say enough good about the Term-C. If you're not averse to regressing to single-coil, sane resistances with no daily vogue hacks to make your vape sound impressive to others, you'll love it too. Although I guess some have done microcoils in their Ody clones. I never have, and don't see much need to.

For what it's worth, I've never been much of a fan of Gennies. Torching my wick, being conscious of keeping my PV upright, and poking and prodding coils to eliminate hotspots just isn't my bag, baby.