DARWIN!! From EVOLVAPOR.COM – My Overview and First Impressions – Newest PRE-Production Prototype

[NCVapingLady]

Oh, wow, thanks, NB, for the helpful info. I'm more of a "mechanical" person, very weak on the "electrical" aspects of vaping. However, the Darwin being a "Smart" device, hopefully will overcome my "handicap"!
Thx again!

Cannot speak for Evolv but I would imagine they will be posting full details soon. If you want a quick reference, you can use the overly generalized formula: volts squared and divide by ohms (R) = watts. Or: VxV/R=Watts

So:
(3.7v x 3.7v)/1.8 (avg LR atty ohms) = 7.6 watts

3.7x3.7/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 5.47 watts

5x5/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 10 watts
5x5/3.0=8.33 watts
5x5/3.3=7.57 watts

6x6/3.3=10.90 watts
6x6/4.5(typical HV atty) = 8 watts

We are all accustomed to think in terms of setting volts. But, to decide volts we either have to blindly adjust to taste or do the above calculations (for a starting place) to find the heat output (watts) level we want to vape at. Darwin does the calculations and voltage changes for us - so once we focus on the heat output level (watts) we want - a quick turn of that wheel and Darwin does the rest. This is a MUCH faster and easier way of setting and that heat output (watts) level will be the same regardless of which atty/carto you put on the device - because Darwin reads the atty/carto ohms and makes the adjustments for us = "Smart" device.

 

[ukeman]

so hopefully i can deduce from Nebula's post what watt settings for the optimal range for each type of atty (resistance) ...
hoping for a general guide along those lines for those of us that may never understand electronic thinking...

 

[NebulaBrot]

Yeah so did I but after reading NebulaBrot's post I seem to remember that this device will self adjust to whatever atty you use so there is less need for a manual but a booklet with this explanation would be very helpful.
Perhaps NebulaBrot and Angus should write a little booklet for those of us unfamiliar with using watts or volts.
C.B.

If my last post left you with more questions - post them. There are plenty of knowledgeable and helpful people in here and more people getting their Darwin(s) starting today (like you). You will very quickly see the advantages of this set system AND the advantages of the Darwin power management system. People are already starting to post their initial impressions.

Of course - also feel free to PM me (and I would imagine any of the others would be happy to try to help you as well).

 

[NebulaBrot]

so hopefully i can deduce from Nebula's post what watt settings for the optimal range for each type of atty (resistance) ...
hoping for a general guide along those lines for those of us that may never understand electronic thinking...

This is the volts set mindset. Once you start using Darwin, you shift to watts setting mindset. Darwin does the math and constantly reads the atty and constantly adjusts the volts for you to keep the watts consistent. Just start at that midway stopping place on the wheel (8.5 watts). Then make small adjustments up or down to make the vapor hotter or cooler to YOUR liking. It does not much matter which atty or carto you use because Darwin will make the changes for you. Use my post as a general guideline to compare whatever you have been using - for a starting place. But the midway setting (8.5) is a great place to start and then play with it from there. In a few minutes you will find your "happy place" for any juice in any atty.

 

[NebulaBrot]

To all those still uncertain - think of this like setting the volume on your stereo. Some music you like louder and other music softer. Some juices you will like warmer and other juices a bit cooler. Do not worry about the math. Just start at that midway 8.5 setting and make small adjustments up/down to find the setting you like best for each juice. Darwin does the rest.

I would suggest staying below the 10 Watts setting until you are familiar with the settings. Most will likely find their happy place between 6 and 10 watts with the majority probably right around that 8.5 midway set point. Do not worry about which atty/carto you are using - just choose your favorite and throw it on the Darwin, juice it and vape. Then turn it up or down to find your "happy place" for any juice. going over 10 starts getting pretty warm and the higher you go, you may start to risk certain attys. Most attys can handle up to about 12 watts but why risk it on day 1? Just start at 8.5 and play with the setting for a while. Any atty should be very safe below 10 watts (and, as I said, most can even handle up to 12). But, like a new set of speakers, why blast them at max on day 1?

 

[markimar]

Got mine today!
Have only vape it but 10 min, cause I was at work so I will give my out of box 10 min experience, then a more extensive one later.

My first observation is mine has a slight scratch on the front. No biggie it came pretty much fully charged. The weight is quite manageable feels extremely sturdy in your hand. I love the folding atty on off switch very efficient means to carry it without it firing. Would be nice to have some type of rubbery grip coating, or some type of top coat I think this will show wear with time

I also find the adjustment wheel to be a bit loose meaning its a very subtle touch to go from 8.0 to 8.5 8.4 is in there but to easy to miss. So going .1 increments is a little touchy.

Display shows voltage,amps and ohms (resistance I'm assuming) and battery gauge.
No instruction manual just the charger cable.
I started with a day old 510 cartomizer so I won't be able to comment on performance on the life of a carto. I have it set at 8.5 when I took a hit it showed 5 volts, 1.4 amps and 2.79 ohms. The cartos are supposed to be rated at 3.5 ohms. I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't know if a cartos resistance lowers or raises with use. Great hits of vapor and flavor! And each hit is exactly the same. So far I'm impressed! Now to put it through the paces of an evening at home . Will report back in a couple days with a more in depth performance review.

 

[NCVapingLady]

To all those still uncertain - think of this like setting the volume on your stereo. Some music you like louder and other music softer. Some juices you will like warmer and other juices a bit cooler. Do not worry about the math. Just start at that midway 8.5 setting and make small adjustments up/down to find the setting you like best for each juice. Darwin does the rest.

I would suggest staying below the 10 Watts setting until you are familiar with the settings. Most will likely find their happy place between 6 and 10 watts with the majority probably right around that 8.5 midway set point. Do not worry about which atty/carto you are using - just choose your favorite and throw it on the Darwin, juice it and vape. Then turn it up or down to find your "happy place" for any juice. going over 10 starts getting pretty warm and the higher you go, you may start to risk certain attys. Most attys can handle up to about 12 watts but why risk it on day 1? Just start at 8.5 and play with the setting for a while. Any atty should be very safe below 10 watts (and, as I said, most can even handle up to 12). But, like a new set of speakers, why blast them at max on day 1?

You really can't get any simpler than that! That is what I like about the concept of the Darwin!
Thanks again, NB, for your outstanding reviews,comments, and tips!

 

[NebulaBrot]

So going .1 increments is a little touchy.

.1 volts is probably a bigger change than .1 watts. Some people may be sensitive enough to detect a .1 watts difference but that is very subtle. I usually notice around .3 watts difference - unless I am nearing the upper or lower edge of a juice's range (then I can sometimes detect smaller changes).

I would say, at least for starters, not to worry about the numbers. Instead, just play with it to see where YOUR vape experience gets to YOUR liking (based on the flavor and TH) - THEN look at the numbers to see for repeating that vape for that juice. In time, and if you are so inclined, you may choose start paying attention to the ranges of your various juices and also start taking notice to see if you find differences for the same juice on different attys and/or cartos models.

 

[VaporMadness]

so hopefully i can deduce from Nebula's post what watt settings for the optimal range for each type of atty (resistance) ...
hoping for a general guide along those lines for those of us that may never understand electronic thinking...

The beauty of the Darwin is that you dial in your desired wattage and it will adjust the voltage accordingly to produce that power output on whatever atty you happen to have attached. When you switch attys from an LR (1.8ohm) atty to an HV (3.5ohm) atty you shouldn't have to adjust the wattage setting at all to get the same amount of "heat" out of the two attys.

So you just pick you power level and mostly shouldn't have to muck with it after that.

Big kudos to them for putting the user dial-ability on the wattage rather than the voltage

 

[VaporMadness]

Gelskins for your Darwin anyone?

Got mine today!
Have only vape it but 10 min, cause I was at work so I will give my out of box 10 min experience, then a more extensive one later.

My first observation is mine has a slight scratch on the front. No biggie it came pretty much fully charged. The weight is quite manageable feels extremely sturdy in your hand. I love the folding atty on off switch very efficient means to carry it without it firing. Would be nice to have some type of rubbery grip coating, or some type of top coat I think this will show wear with time

I also find the adjustment wheel to be a bit loose meaning its a very subtle touch to go from 8.0 to 8.5 8.4 is in there but to easy to miss. So going .1 increments is a little touchy.

Display shows voltage,amps and ohms (resistance I'm assuming) and battery gauge.
No instruction manual just the charger cable.
I started with a day old 510 cartomizer so I won't be able to comment on performance on the life of a carto. I have it set at 8.5 when I took a hit it showed 5 volts, 1.4 amps and 2.79 ohms. The cartos are supposed to be rated at 3.5 ohms. I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't know if a cartos resistance lowers or raises with use. Great hits of vapor and flavor! And each hit is exactly the same. So far I'm impressed! Now to put it through the paces of an evening at home . Will report back in a couple days with a more in depth performance review.

 

[VaporMadness]

You can use this webpage to perform "power" calculations...

Calculations voltage current resistance and electric power calculator - electricity calculation - electrical power formula general ohms law physics electricity electronics formula wheel formulas amps watts volts ohms cosine equation audio engineering

So enter Volts and Resistance of a vaping setup that you like (3.7v and 2ohms)... click the button and you see that's 6.85 watts.

Cannot speak for Evolv but I would imagine they will be posting full details soon. If you want a quick reference, you can use the overly generalized formula: volts squared and divide by ohms (R) = watts. Or: VxV/R=Watts

So:
(3.7v x 3.7v)/1.8 (avg LR atty ohms) = 7.6 watts

3.7x3.7/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 5.47 watts

5x5/2.5 (avg regular 510 atty ohms) = 10 watts
5x5/3.0=8.33 watts
5x5/3.3=7.57 watts

6x6/3.3=10.90 watts
6x6/4.5(typical HV atty) = 8 watts

We are all accustomed to think in terms of setting volts. But, to decide volts we either have to blindly adjust to taste or do the above calculations (for a starting place) to find the heat output (watts) level we want to vape at. Darwin does the calculations and voltage changes for us - so once we focus on the heat output level (watts) we want - a quick turn of that wheel and Darwin does the rest. This is a MUCH faster and easier way of setting and that heat output (watts) level will be the same regardless of which atty/carto you put on the device - because Darwin reads the atty/carto ohms and makes the adjustments for us = "Smart" device.

 

[ukeman]

I really really like the Darwin... it is the most advanced, thought out PV on the market.

I believe there is only one other right now and one i know of on the way soon in that category, but that says a lot when all the other PV's out there are way behind.

The one thing i believe Darwin dropped the ball on is the leaking atty problem... I am a confirmed dripper - no cartos/tanks/vapemates for me... I like the freedom to switch juices, and there is no vape like a drip vape.

If you are a dripper you really have to follow the rule of 2 or 3 drops only... and with an extreme variable volt you can tend to put 4 or 5 drops, set the voltage or watts and it can vape up quickly.

The Darwin could stand to have an engineering re-do on the connector and provide a substantial drip well.

 

[NebulaBrot]

I'm a dripper too. I just make it a point to not over-drip and vape out most of a feed before putting it in my pocket. Haven't had a drip in my pocket, on a counter, in my car cup-holder, or anywhere else yet.

The pivoting atty sort of prevents a functional well. If you turn it, angle it to vape, or fold it to turn off - any juice in a well would be a problem.

 

[ukeman]

yes and leaving the pivoting connector up, thus vertical, leaves the display on...
a not so well designed basic flaw in an otherwise state of the art front runner (imo)

I'm a dripper too. I just make it a point to not over-drip and vape out most of a feed before putting it in my pocket. Haven't had a drip in my pocket, on a counter, in my car cup-holder, or anywhere else yet.

The pivoting atty sort of prevents a functional well. If you turn it, angle it to vape, or fold it to turn off - any juice in a well would be a problem.

 

[Uma]

<--- jumps in to ask quick question

Will Darwin turn off if the atty/carto is removed for the night? I like to take mine completely off or at least untwist until it's wobbly.

 

[clyde2801]

You'd have to take the atty, etc off when the arm is extended down or manually grasp the brass connector and rotate it.

Other than the minor quibble of a battery charge indicator, I don't think I'd change a thing about the design. I would be a little paranoid about juice possibly dripping into the case through the swivel arm if it wasn't for the two year warranty.

 

[murf43143]

I am wondering if the signature under the screen is the "scratch" people have been observing at first glance.

 

[Uma]

Good to know it's do-able. Thanks Clyde!

 

[ScottinSoCal]

Looks like the Darwin has a large 3.7v power source and it steps that voltage up/down as needed, is that right? Any info on how efficient the Darwin's circuit is at different Vouts?

That would be a really tough circuit to design. More likely is that it handles the voltage setting the same way ProVari does - steps up the power to a fixed voltage, then uses PWM to limit the effective voltage. It takes it a step further than PV by regulating the voltage on the fly to achieve a set result, instead of a set input (voltage) that gets a variable result based on element resistance.

I just wish they hadn't decided on a thumbwheel.

 

[VaporMadness]

That would be a really tough circuit to design. More likely is that it handles the voltage setting the same way ProVari does - steps up the power to a fixed voltage, then uses PWM to limit the effective voltage. It takes it a step further than PV by regulating the voltage on the fly to achieve a set result, instead of a set input (voltage) that gets a variable result based on element resistance.

I just wish they hadn't decided on a thumbwheel.

I later read that the Darwin has 2 lithium-polymer cells as a power supply, which I was assuming are in series (?).

What's wrong with a thumbwheel?