I just bought yhe ipv3 silver with caron fiber. This is the vr150 correct? I also saw somewhere this is a limited run is that correct as well?
P4U/ IPV3 150w Owners Discussion / A Place to Discuss Concerns and Performance of the IPV3
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Just a question for some of you guys who mightve found something like this. I'm looking for a case to fit my ipv3 in so I can clip it to my belt. Had anyone found something that'll fit it? Thanks in advance!
The Vr150+ say it on the side of them. They were made for vapor range from what I was able to find out. How other places got them I'm not sure.
Vapor range is only 3 miles from me, I'm going to go there this afternoon and see what they can tell me about the vr150+
Went to Vapor Range, the VR150+ is a limited edition made for them to sell and distribute. I wasn't told how limited they will be, but you can get one from any shop or site that gets there stock from them.
The only difference between the VR150+ and regular IPV3 is the carbon fiber.
Went to Vapor Range, the VR150+ is a limited edition made for them to sell and distribute. I wasn't told how limited they will be, but you can get one from any shop or site that gets there stock from them.
The only difference between the VR150+ and regular IPV3 is the carbon fiber.
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Thanks for the info. I bought this onencause ofnthe carbon fiber goesngoodnwith the silver. And was about the same price as the normal one.
So my new IPV3 has been jumping around in ohms a lot more in the last few days. At first I thought it was my dripper build (loose screws), but now it's doing it on every device I have. Even my Aerotank v2, and I've tried a couple different coils now. I keep getting burnt hits because the resistance keeps jumping, almost every time I press the button (I've been hitting the button a few times before vaping to check the res.) - I can't see if it jumps while vaping, so I'm taking a chance with every puff!!
It's only a couple weeks old, and I've never dropped it or caused any damage to it. I never tried turning the spring-loaded 510 pin (all my devices seem to fit nicely), or opened up the IPV.
... I really hope it's not a problem with my IPV3. The ohms were really stable until the past few days it seems, and I've been using mainly the same devices. I'm going to try a few more atty's and coils and find out. I won't do anything that will void the warranty.
I got it from eciggity with the black friday sales (charge hole blocked). I'm currently going back & forth with them because I lost 1 of the AFC screws for Billow tank - waited over a week for the new 1, and they shipped the wrong screws to me today! So I'm going to hold off on this issue until I know it's a problem with the IPV.
I haven't even updated it yet. I was going to today, but now I don't want to in-case I have to return it on warranty
It's only a couple weeks old, and I've never dropped it or caused any damage to it. I never tried turning the spring-loaded 510 pin (all my devices seem to fit nicely), or opened up the IPV.
... I really hope it's not a problem with my IPV3. The ohms were really stable until the past few days it seems, and I've been using mainly the same devices. I'm going to try a few more atty's and coils and find out. I won't do anything that will void the warranty.
I got it from eciggity with the black friday sales (charge hole blocked). I'm currently going back & forth with them because I lost 1 of the AFC screws for Billow tank - waited over a week for the new 1, and they shipped the wrong screws to me today! So I'm going to hold off on this issue until I know it's a problem with the IPV.
I haven't even updated it yet. I was going to today, but now I don't want to in-case I have to return it on warranty
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thats a bummer -- mine jumps around occasionally with my drippers but everytime i've either found a sheered coil or a loose screw.
could you be over tightening the attys?
if not and no juice or nasty looking 510's i'd see about getting a replacement through the vendor/warranty -- im not sure how the u/g would impact the return process but its probably not a bad idea to hold off just in case.
could you be over tightening the attys?
if not and no juice or nasty looking 510's i'd see about getting a replacement through the vendor/warranty -- im not sure how the u/g would impact the return process but its probably not a bad idea to hold off just in case.
Ugh I hope I don't have to try to exchange it on warranty, but it's looking like I might have too. Just took my time and rebuilt my new CLT v2 - wrapped a very stable 26g dual coil, 8 wraps each @0.40 ohm exactly. Coils glowed perfectly even.. I made sure the screws were tight (this is usually the problem, or a scrappy coil) a few times, and they were very secure. I checked multiple times on my multimeter, and confirmed 0.4 ohms; stable.resistance/no jumping even when screwing it into my MM.
..... screwed my CLT all the way down on my IPV3 as I usually do. Test fired, and it stayed at 0.4 even after pulsing a few tines. Vaped great abd stayed at 0.4. Before, sometimes my other tanks were jumping around a bit even when fully screwed down
I decided to unscrew my CLT a tad and see if the resistance changed this time. And it did. I tried this a few times and it would jump between 0.4 and about 1.6, almost every time I pressed the button. At one point after a few tries of this, I got a "Too Hot!" message on the screen and everything froze for a few seconds. I tried screwing it back in all the way, and it's staying at 0.4 again. Great vape between 30-50watts
But this worries me. My ohms weren't jumping like this before, no matter how far the device was screwed in. And before this CLT build, the ohms.would jump with my Aerotank screwed all the way down w- this caused quite a few surprise scorching burnt/dry hits. I don't think all 3 Aerotank coils I tried were duds, but its possible.
I hope I can clear this up and don't have to try to return it. This was my 1st order with eciggity, and I already emailed them about maybe returning my CLT before I received it (changed my mind), and have been going back & forth with them again for the past 2 weeks because I had them send me new AFC screws for my Billow tank and they sent me the wrong screws..
.... I hate being that pest customer; but I spent a lot and I do take good care.of my.gear, and I expect it to WORK!
..... screwed my CLT all the way down on my IPV3 as I usually do. Test fired, and it stayed at 0.4 even after pulsing a few tines. Vaped great abd stayed at 0.4. Before, sometimes my other tanks were jumping around a bit even when fully screwed down
I decided to unscrew my CLT a tad and see if the resistance changed this time. And it did. I tried this a few times and it would jump between 0.4 and about 1.6, almost every time I pressed the button. At one point after a few tries of this, I got a "Too Hot!" message on the screen and everything froze for a few seconds. I tried screwing it back in all the way, and it's staying at 0.4 again. Great vape between 30-50watts
But this worries me. My ohms weren't jumping like this before, no matter how far the device was screwed in. And before this CLT build, the ohms.would jump with my Aerotank screwed all the way down w- this caused quite a few surprise scorching burnt/dry hits. I don't think all 3 Aerotank coils I tried were duds, but its possible.
I hope I can clear this up and don't have to try to return it. This was my 1st order with eciggity, and I already emailed them about maybe returning my CLT before I received it (changed my mind), and have been going back & forth with them again for the past 2 weeks because I had them send me new AFC screws for my Billow tank and they sent me the wrong screws..
.... I hate being that pest customer; but I spent a lot and I do take good care.of my.gear, and I expect it to WORK!
Ackkkk just got another huge puff of burnt cotton!! I pressed the button and made sure it was at 0.4, but forgot my dripper wasn't screwed all the way down. and when I pressed it again and vaped, I got the worst burnt hit I've ever had. The wicks still look saturated too after that! Checked the screen and it had jumped to about 1.4/80watts
... ^^ 1 of the reason this really sucks is because I can check the resistance - but once I hold the button to vape, I can't see the screen to see if it jumped again.
It's looking more & more like I might have to contact eciggity about an exchange.
After 3 big correspondences already, on my 1st order with them! Doesn't look good for me.
I had just built and wicked this coil with KGD. Now I'll have to re-wick after a half hour of use. Starting to wish I went with my gut, and got the Sig 100w PLUS
... ^^ 1 of the reason this really sucks is because I can check the resistance - but once I hold the button to vape, I can't see the screen to see if it jumped again.
It's looking more & more like I might have to contact eciggity about an exchange.
After 3 big correspondences already, on my 1st order with them! Doesn't look good for me.
I had just built and wicked this coil with KGD. Now I'll have to re-wick after a half hour of use. Starting to wish I went with my gut, and got the Sig 100w PLUS
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Btw, I was having pretty much these same issues with my eVic right when it became unusable. The o-ring that holds the 510 up in place, had stretched and deformed. So when I screwed an atty in, the pin would get pushed down and hardly make a connection. Eventually the o-ring stretched enough to where it made no connection, wobt ready any tank I screw on.
Up until a few days ago, sometimes my IPV3 would jump in resistance by only 0.1ohm, but that's no big deal - and I figured the small resistance jump was mainly because I didn't update yet, so a 0.35ohm coil for example, would sometimes bounce between 0.3-0.4. (Since my IPV is just rounding to the nearest tenth).
.... but now the resistance is jumping much more extreme (sometimes 1ohm plus), causing horrible surprise burnt hits.
^^ Here's a pic of that "Too Hot!" message I got.. And I wasn't even firing the coil when this happened, just tapped the button a few times to see how the rez was changing^^
Up until a few days ago, sometimes my IPV3 would jump in resistance by only 0.1ohm, but that's no big deal - and I figured the small resistance jump was mainly because I didn't update yet, so a 0.35ohm coil for example, would sometimes bounce between 0.3-0.4. (Since my IPV is just rounding to the nearest tenth).
.... but now the resistance is jumping much more extreme (sometimes 1ohm plus), causing horrible surprise burnt hits.
^^ Here's a pic of that "Too Hot!" message I got.. And I wasn't even firing the coil when this happened, just tapped the button a few times to see how the rez was changing^^
I was just going to jump in and comment on that proclivity of t.m.c.'s to mimick a loose post connection when they haven't fully oxidized. Which ones? Any.coil, t.m.c. or not that's been wound too tight, unevenly or a combination of the two. They'll skew and it's harder to detect that elongation in a spaced wind. Friction in a t.m.c. since its in tight contact or the lead tension that induced it in a free wind holds it in place. And man will it give you a dry, burny awful taste. All the stuff I encountered with eccentric irregular winds in the first few months I was testing consumer clearo building methods.
You're def on to something with the loose connection on the 510. Problem with clearo's as you know is how susceptible they are to skewing the wind by adding tension to the leads one or both as you torque them back on. And often loosening the tank a tad and tightening it back a bit releases whatever tension was being added or detracted from the end turns. Suddenly you find yourself reading out the actual line length wire resistance and you're golden.
Good luck all and Happy Holidays.
p.s. I talk a bit about equilibrium on super_X_drifters new theme...Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. An extension of the origin of the tensioned microcoil...Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! A thread started by a very good friend of mine.
p.s.s. Beautiful device bro. I love my pvs2.
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Has anyone tried to build a higher resistance coil and bring it up to around 6-7 volts? I just built a dual 29 gauge with 15 wraps and it came out to 1.49 ohms and it's a surprisingly nice warm vape at 32.8 watts.
There is an aftermarket charging port you can put in that is suppose to have a stable charge but I would have to look for it. I will find it later.
As was mentioned not much different just a special made thing for Vapor Range. As far as limited hard to say how limited but they were still a mass produced Chinese product so...
Send it to repair or send it back if Eciggity will take it without referring you to Asmods. Sounds like you have an issue.
Are those magnets? I hope not because that could make your warranty useless or at the least a hassle.
No magnets, haven't done anything to avoid warranty, or even update it yet.
BUT I think it might have just been the coil or a loose screw, and both of those Aerotank coils I tried before, were crappy (stock dual coils, 0.8 and 1.8ohms. Sorry Mac!). I cleaned out the CLT2 and dry burned it, pinched the coils again to make sure they glowed evenly, and re-wicked with KGD.
.... andd now it's staying at 0.4ohm on my IPV - whether screwed all the way down, or not.
Phew! It might've just been a slightly loose connection on my CLT coil. And I'm not surprised that both of those stock kanger coils just happened to be a bit funky - their ohms have always bounced around on me a bit, but the new versions do work better.
Thanks Fic.
And Mac, thanks for chiming in with another informative reply! I'll reply to your PM later today.. You're gonna hate me, I'm still winding by hand lol. But my main problem, even with rebuildables - is coil skewing when I install it, usually when pulling the leads through.
but this coil is vaping like a dream around 40w, I can crank it to 70 too. My usual dual 1.9mm, 8 wraps of 26g (0.4 even).
Wrapped excellent coils but messed them up a bit when installing.. 1 coil had an overlap from pinching to hard, so I ended up 'raking' the coils with my tweezers to make them slightly spaced, until they glowed even.
Never tried this before but it worked good, flavor and vapor is amazing! 
BUT I think it might have just been the coil or a loose screw, and both of those Aerotank coils I tried before, were crappy (stock dual coils, 0.8 and 1.8ohms. Sorry Mac!). I cleaned out the CLT2 and dry burned it, pinched the coils again to make sure they glowed evenly, and re-wicked with KGD.
.... andd now it's staying at 0.4ohm on my IPV - whether screwed all the way down, or not.
Phew! It might've just been a slightly loose connection on my CLT coil. And I'm not surprised that both of those stock kanger coils just happened to be a bit funky - their ohms have always bounced around on me a bit, but the new versions do work better.
Thanks Fic.
And Mac, thanks for chiming in with another informative reply! I'll reply to your PM later today.. You're gonna hate me, I'm still winding by hand lol. But my main problem, even with rebuildables - is coil skewing when I install it, usually when pulling the leads through.
but this coil is vaping like a dream around 40w, I can crank it to 70 too. My usual dual 1.9mm, 8 wraps of 26g (0.4 even).
Wrapped excellent coils but messed them up a bit when installing.. 1 coil had an overlap from pinching to hard, so I ended up 'raking' the coils with my tweezers to make them slightly spaced, until they glowed even.
Never tried this before but it worked good, flavor and vapor is amazing!
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1 thing I noticed though last night - I tried pushing slightly on my IPV's 510 pin, with a small flathead.. And it had hardly any give at all.
Shouldn't the pin be more springy??
... it does usually make a connection with most of my atty's when about halfway screwed down, so shouldn't be a problem. But the jumping ohms thing had me check, and wonder.
Also, can your guys atty's wobble at all while screwing them onto your IPV? Mine do. And 1 of my tanks can even wobble on the threads slightly when screwed all the way down. I try to avoid any of this rocking, or any 'bad' pressure on those 510 threads.
Shouldn't the pin be more springy??
... it does usually make a connection with most of my atty's when about halfway screwed down, so shouldn't be a problem. But the jumping ohms thing had me check, and wonder.
Also, can your guys atty's wobble at all while screwing them onto your IPV? Mine do. And 1 of my tanks can even wobble on the threads slightly when screwed all the way down. I try to avoid any of this rocking, or any 'bad' pressure on those 510 threads.
No magnets, haven't done anything to avoid warranty, or even update it yet.
BUT I think it might have just been the coil or a loose screw, and both of those Aerotank coils I tried before, were crappy (stock dual coils, 0.8 and 1.8ohms. Sorry Mac!). I cleaned out the CLT2 and dry burned it, pinched the coils again to make sure they glowed evenly, and re-wicked with KGD.
.... andd now it's staying at 0.4ohm on my IPV - whether screwed all the way down, or not.
Phew! It might've just been a slightly loose connection on my CLT coil. And I'm not surprised that both of those stock kanger coils just happened to be a bit funky - their ohms have always bounced around on me a bit, but the new versions do work better.
Thanks Fic.
And Mac, thanks for chiming in with another informative reply! I'll reply to your PM later today.. You're gonna hate me, I'm still winding by hand lol. But my main problem, even with rebuildables - is coil skewing when I install it, usually when pulling the leads through.
but this coil is vaping like a dream around 40w, I can crank it to 70 too. My usual dual 1.9mm, 8 wraps of 26g (0.4 even).
Wrapped excellent coils but messed them up a bit when installing.. 1 coil had an overlap from pinching to hard, so I ended up 'raking' the coils with my tweezers to make them slightly spaced, until they glowed even.
Feelin' ya bro on the connection issue. I'd be bonkers too if it happened on my pv2s. KISS principle seemed to work here. Start from the ground up, lol. No worries on the t.m.c. You know my offer still stands and we'll get to it. I suffer from terrific stage fright. Not the main reason I don't do video but it's a mental block thing. Nothin' stopping' you from applying a technique, a tool. And it'll happen when you're ready.
Meantime, good luck.
Mac, I'll definitely take you up on that offer.. I have some bad social anxiety myself (especially with new people lol), so don't feel nervous. You've been such a great help to me, and so many others. But take your time too, I've been busy with xmas and everything.
Sorry to go OT..
.. My IPV seems to be fine now. Must've been a slightly bad connection with the coil & a post. Since last night, the resistance has been staying STEADY - screwed all the way in, or not. My CLT stays at 0.4 now: and if I unscrewed it a bit, it might jump by 0.1 after a few test fires. No problem.
I have since swapped batteries (which my IP3 has been discharging perfectly even btw), and now even my Aerotank v2 coil is staying at 1.9ohms on every test fire, screwed all the way down onto my mod, or not. So it should be good! I get nervous with new purchases hah. Now I might looks for a J-wrap
I think I might finally update my IPV to 0.01ohm/165w!! Got it all the way up to 60watts last night for the first time.. Nobody having problems with the update?
Sorry to go OT..
.. My IPV seems to be fine now. Must've been a slightly bad connection with the coil & a post. Since last night, the resistance has been staying STEADY - screwed all the way in, or not. My CLT stays at 0.4 now: and if I unscrewed it a bit, it might jump by 0.1 after a few test fires. No problem.
I have since swapped batteries (which my IP3 has been discharging perfectly even btw), and now even my Aerotank v2 coil is staying at 1.9ohms on every test fire, screwed all the way down onto my mod, or not. So it should be good! I get nervous with new purchases hah. Now I might looks for a J-wrap
I think I might finally update my IPV to 0.01ohm/165w!! Got it all the way up to 60watts last night for the first time.. Nobody having problems with the update?
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Well replaced the vr150 plus I sold with another limited edition Ipv3. The thinman, what I found odd was when I took the battery cover off what did I see? Carbon fiber.
Now to get it updated.
Now to get it updated.
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Well replaced the vr150 plus I sold with another limited edition Ipv3. The thinman, what I found odd was when I took the battery cover off what did I see? Carbon fiber.
Now to get it updated.
Hey not to spoil it for you, but that texture is on the inside of my plain old black IPV3 too -- I do not think its carbon fiber. It looks like just the pattern they chose to have on the back. When i first saw it I thought it looked like a 3d printing pattern ;-) but I think its just something from the mold they used.
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