I just bought yhe ipv3 silver with caron fiber. This is the vr150 correct? I also saw somewhere this is a limited run is that correct as well?
The Vr150+ say it on the side of them. They were made for vapor range from what I was able to find out. How other places got them I'm not sure.I just bought yhe ipv3 silver with caron fiber. This is the vr150 correct? I also saw somewhere this is a limited run is that correct as well?
Btw, I was having pretty much these same issues with my eVic right when it became unusable. The o-ring that holds the 510 up in place, had stretched and deformed. So when I screwed an atty in, the pin would get pushed down and hardly make a connection. Eventually the o-ring stretched enough to where it made no connection, wobt ready any tank I screw on.
Up until a few days ago, sometimes my IPV3 would jump in resistance by only 0.1ohm, but that's no big deal - and I figured the small resistance jump was mainly because I didn't update yet, so a 0.35ohm coil for example, would sometimes bounce between 0.3-0.4. (Since my IPV is just rounding to the nearest tenth).
.... but now the resistance is jumping much more extreme (sometimes 1ohm plus), causing horrible surprise burnt hits.
View attachment 396596
^^ Here's a pic of that "Too Hot!" message I got.. And I wasn't even firing the coil when this happened, just tapped the button a few times to see how the rez was changing^^
View attachment 396597
There is an aftermarket charging port you can put in that is suppose to have a stable charge but I would have to look for it. I will find it later.USB evolv charger board are for single batteries, not batteries in series -- you are replacing the board but still leaving the core problem -- that's just a waste of time, money, and voiding or your warranty...
As was mentioned not much different just a special made thing for Vapor Range. As far as limited hard to say how limited but they were still a mass produced Chinese product so...I just bought yhe ipv3 silver with caron fiber. This is the vr150 correct? I also saw somewhere this is a limited run is that correct as well?
Ugh I hope I don't have to try to exchange it on warranty, but it's looking like I might have too. Just took my time and rebuilt my new CLT v2 - wrapped a very stable 26g dual coil, 8 wraps each @0.40 ohm exactly. Coils glowed perfectly even.. I made sure the screws were tight (this is usually the problem, or a scrappy coil) a few times, and they were very secure. I checked multiple times on my multimeter, and confirmed 0.4 ohms; stable.resistance/no jumping even when screwing it into my MM.
..... screwed my CLT all the way down on my IPV3 as I usually do. Test fired, and it stayed at 0.4 even after pulsing a few tines. Vaped great abd stayed at 0.4. Before, sometimes my other tanks were jumping around a bit even when fully screwed down
I decided to unscrew my CLT a tad and see if the resistance changed this time. And it did. I tried this a few times and it would jump between 0.4 and about 1.6, almost every time I pressed the button. At one point after a few tries of this, I got a "Too Hot!" message on the screen and everything froze for a few seconds. I tried screwing it back in all the way, and it's staying at 0.4 again. Great vape between 30-50watts
But this worries me. My ohms weren't jumping like this before, no matter how far the device was screwed in. And before this CLT build, the ohms.would jump with my Aerotank screwed all the way down w- this caused quite a few surprise scorching burnt/dry hits. I don't think all 3 Aerotank coils I tried were duds, but its possible.
I hope I can clear this up and don't have to try to return it. This was my 1st order with eciggity, and I already emailed them about maybe returning my CLT before I received it (changed my mind), and have been going back & forth with them again for the past 2 weeks because I had them send me new AFC screws for my Billow tank and they sent me the wrong screws..
.... I hate being that pest customer; but I spent a lot and I do take good care.of my.gear, and I expect it to WORK!
Are those magnets? I hope not because that could make your warranty useless or at the least a hassle.Btw, I was having pretty much these same issues with my eVic right when it became unusable. The o-ring that holds the 510 up in place, had stretched and deformed. So when I screwed an atty in, the pin would get pushed down and hardly make a connection. Eventually the o-ring stretched enough to where it made no connection, wobt ready any tank I screw on.
Up until a few days ago, sometimes my IPV3 would jump in resistance by only 0.1ohm, but that's no big deal - and I figured the small resistance jump was mainly because I didn't update yet, so a 0.35ohm coil for example, would sometimes bounce between 0.3-0.4. (Since my IPV is just rounding to the nearest tenth).
.... but now the resistance is jumping much more extreme (sometimes 1ohm plus), causing horrible surprise burnt hits.
View attachment 396596
^^ Here's a pic of that "Too Hot!" message I got.. And I wasn't even firing the coil when this happened, just tapped the button a few times to see how the rez was changing^^
View attachment 396597
No magnets, haven't done anything to avoid warranty, or even update it yet.
BUT I think it might have just been the coil or a loose screw, and both of those Aerotank coils I tried before, were crappy (stock dual coils, 0.8 and 1.8ohms. Sorry Mac!). I cleaned out the CLT2 and dry burned it, pinched the coils again to make sure they glowed evenly, and re-wicked with KGD.
.... andd now it's staying at 0.4ohm on my IPV - whether screwed all the way down, or not.
Phew! It might've just been a slightly loose connection on my CLT coil. And I'm not surprised that both of those stock kanger coils just happened to be a bit funky - their ohms have always bounced around on me a bit, but the new versions do work better.
Thanks Fic.
And Mac, thanks for chiming in with another informative reply! I'll reply to your PM later today.. You're gonna hate me, I'm still winding by hand lol. But my main problem, even with rebuildables - is coil skewing when I install it, usually when pulling the leads through.
but this coil is vaping like a dream around 40w, I can crank it to 70 too. My usual dual 1.9mm, 8 wraps of 26g (0.4 even).
Wrapped excellent coils but messed them up a bit when installing.. 1 coil had an overlap from pinching to hard, so I ended up 'raking' the coils with my tweezers to make them slightly spaced, until they glowed even.
Never tried this before but it worked good, flavor and vapor is amazing!
1 thing I noticed though last night - I tried pushing slightly on my IPV's 510 pin, with a small flathead.. And it had hardly any give at all.
Shouldn't the pin be more springy??
... it does usually make a connection with most of my atty's when about halfway screwed down, so shouldn't be a problem. But the jumping ohms thing had me check, and wonder.
Also, can your guys atty's wobble at all while screwing them onto your IPV? Mine do. And 1 of my tanks can even wobble on the threads slightly when screwed all the way down. I try to avoid any of this rocking, or any 'bad' pressure on those 510 threads.
Well replaced the vr150 plus I sold with another limited edition Ipv3. The thinman, what I found odd was when I took the battery cover off what did I see? Carbon fiber.
Now to get it updated.